The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve lash question

I am back! I got my 1951 3100 on the road thanks to the folks here. I got it to start and now stop after re-doing all the brakes and lines. Now I am on to fine tuning. The engine seems to suffer from a lot of valve noise so I want to adjust the valves. A loud ticking sound is evident but the engine runs smooth with no smoke. The engine is a 1958 235 what looks to be off a car with powerglide. I have done a lot of research on the boards so I only have one question. With hydrolic lifters I assume you set the lash @ zero, (after running the truck for 30 minutes) which means there is no gap between the rocker and the valve stem, correct? Then tighten 1/2 turn more? Is that correct? thanks yall!

Instructions for setting valve lash for hydraulic lifters are at the bottom of the linked page.

Purney,

Welcome back, new name and all. You have it all figured out on the valve lash thing. You are certain the engine has hydraulic lifters, right!

My comments might start the usual name calling and telling of massive war stories, but I like to adjust the lifter with the engine warm and running.

Many folks don't feel this is the most accurate way to adjust the lifters. Hydraulic lifters, unlike mechanical lifters have a operating 'band' so to speak...they don't have to be within thousandths of an inch to work properly.

With the engine warm and running, you can back each adjuster off until you hear it click, then bring it down until it doesn't click. This is zero lash!

While still on that rocker arm, bring it down the half turn in two quarter turn increments, slowly. The engine should shudder and shake a bit, then will snap out of it and purrr!

OR..do it the other way, which is fine too. Good luck and welcome back.

Stuart

I had read that on Deve's, thanks T. I just wanted to make sure I understood zero vavle lash means no gap.

Stuart, I saw some of the old posts regarding doing it when the engine is running vs not, good stuff! Now you have me doubting that I have hydraulic lifters! Ill have to check some old posts.

I will post my results. I am looking forward to having the engine really run well with the rebuilt carb et all.

Purney,

As soon as you attempt to adjust a solid like it was a hydraulic, it will quickly let you know.

Stuart

so while the engine is running and i try to tighten it down to zero lash what will it do to "quickly let me know" ???

Thanks Stuart.

Purney,

I'm probably making you nervous. If you know it was out of a car, then it is undoubtly has hydraulics. If you start to tighten it down thinking it is hydraulic, it will start to shudder, shake and probably backfire, but will not recover until you back the lifter off.

Doing the same drill, but with a actual hydraulic, the engine will flop around a bit, but will quickly recover as the lifter collapses to its loaded position and things smooth out.

Stuart

Great! Thanks Stuart. How is your health by the way, not taking any chances are you? If anything ever happens to you my truck will just sit!

Didnt have time to try and start it and adjust the valve but I did notice on the engine that their are forward motor mounts that are unused, like it was from a car and put into the truck. I know that the engine has been replaced with this current 235 from 1958-60 but I didnt know what those unused motor mounts meant. Any ideas?

The 58 235 had front side mounts for the truck version. Don't mess around pull the side cover and pull a lifter and make sure what you have. If you over adjust solids lifters on a running engine you most likely will damage the cam.