The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Hot start issues

Last year, after the motor was hot from use on my 66, I would turn off the truck and when I went to restart it the starter would turn over very slowly as if the battery was low. I took it to my garage to troubleshoot. First I tested my battery and alternator and found it to be charging well without problem. I used the correct size wire when I built my truck and I checked the connections where I coupled wires together and replaced them. I even checked that all grounds were secure. The problem persisted and I would either just push start the truck or use the starter (the truck starts so well that often even the slow moving starter would actually bring the motor to life.) At this point I figured that it must be a bad starter. I took a good starter from my 65 C20 and installed it in my 66. I took it for a test drive and yet again, the slow turning starter problem persisted. My last try was to replace the ignition switch which, of course, yielded no results. Eventually the problem had went away (I assume the cool weather as winter set in caused it to work better.) Today, after returning from a 200mile trip in my 66, the starter did the exact same thing as it used to do. I am still able to drive the truck as I have always been able to start it but this is not something I want to tolerate. I am running a 350 I originally had a 327. Anything you guys can think of would help a lot, I know you all have had much experience and hopefully can help. Thanks a lot, Dellman.

it's the starter getting too hot from the exhaust, seems to be a 350 thing - get some of that pipe/muffler insulation wrap and sleeve the head pipe by the starter and see if it doesn't improve .... that or get the HD starter

also welcome to the garage, there's always help for any problem someplace here

Bill

Ok, Thanks I will try that. Hopefully that will work, I will post my results which may take awhile. Another question, do you believe that it will ruin my starter to let it get hot. It did it all last year and worked fine during the winter or when the engine was cool. I am taking it on a 350-400mile trip tomorrow. Oh, and thanks for welcoming me

those starters are pretty tough, the main thing that fails on them is the end bearings [bushings], which are probably tightening up from the heat and loading it down - I wouldn't worry about ruining it, just give it a half hour to cool off and it'll be good to go again - use'em til they break

if you do get the heat shield on and the problem persists, it'll be those bushings worn right out, easy enough to replace, been thru that myself

Bill

Okay, I guess I will take that trip. I will try to remember to point it downhill when I fill it up at the gas stations. I plan to buy some shielding; I already have spotted some I like online. By the way, I enjoyed the link-s in your signature.

Many of the chain auto parts stores carry a "starter blanket" that can be slipped over the starter to reflect the header heat. However, as Bill suggested, the high-torque mini starters are the ultimate solution for replacing a worn out starter. The "blankets" and header wrap at a local FLAPS are $30. and $40. respectively. The circuitry in the mini-starters is not effected by heat like the conventionally wound starter.

Dave

Most of these starters are the light duty kind meant for 6's & 283.s. I get the high torque starters from big olds. & pont.s etc.at the pull your own parts salvage Lots. You often find them laying on the ground or hanging by the wires. Then o-haul it & use your drive end housing. You can tell the the good ones, they have 2 lugs coming out of the starter that hook to the solenoid & a spacer between them & the solenoid. I've never used one of the little starters but I understand they are stout.

Dellman,Welcome to the bolt. I have used a hot start kit that bridges the solenoid on the starter and than uses a remote F@rd style solenoid closer to the battery to engage the starter. Try a heat blanket first and post back if it cures your problem. If it doesn't, I will look up the hot start kit #'s.

If it makes ya feel any better I have the same problem with my 327 62 SS. Thinking it was probably the starter getting weak as it looks to be the original. Haven't tried any of the remedies mentioned here as yet.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I won't have a chance to try any of these remedies until next week. I am away from home right now, I drove it about 200 miles to my brother's house. I stopped at a gas station to fill it up and the starter would barely turn over. I push started it backwards to get back on the road. Anyway when I finally got to my brother's house it wouldn't turn over at all. I waited 2 hours and tried it again and it still would barely turn over. It did start the truck however. I would of figured it would of cooled off enough in two hours since the weather is about 40° out. I will try some heat wrap and post the results, it may take awhile so please bare with me.

Could also be.
The timing is to far advanced...............

Dellman,

After the rig has cooled for two hours, any hot start issues should be long gone. Make sure your charging system is putting out enough to keep your battery fully charged.

Stuart

I'm not sure, I tested it and it charges very well. The battery is almost always fully charged after the problem. When I had the problem last year I even replaced the battery with a new one. I considered the advanced timing issue but I have timed it very nicely and even asked the mechanic to check it out, He couldn't find anything wrong. When the starter is working, I only have to flip it for a second before it starts right up. It has a HEI electronic ignition which doesn't have anything to with the starter but I thought I'd mention that. Anyway, when I get home I will troubleshoot some more. If heat sheilding doesn't help, I may just invest in the "mini" starter or gtow69's hot start kit. I'm sure it's something simple, but I will take it one step at a time. Thanks

I had all your problems,finally after 2 batterys,2starters,1 ignition switch,and re wiring almost everything shielding the starter from heat. I bought a heavy., duty starter made for a c30 van.About $65 Instantly solved the problem. P.M. me if you need more info on part #'s

Well, it turns out to be a coincidence that the battery was also low. I brought the alternator to a parts store to test it and found it to be functional. I opened the battery caps and discovered that the cells had gone dry. I filled them back up with distilled water and I believe that the battery is now fine. Anyway, the hot start problem still continues.

How you you tell if your flywheel is 153 or 168 tooth?

Here's an odd-ball approach often over-looked in hot-start problems: internal lower block circulation. Sediment settles in the block casting restricting coolant movement resulting in warping of block enough to bind easy movement of crank and pistons. Try a thorough block flush -not a rad flush - if the re-charged battery doesn't bring things back to snuff. And the heat shield is an excellent approach to starter life.

Well now the starter is always turning over slowly, even when it's cold. I thought maybe my battery happened to go bad as well but I took a known good one and tried it and it still turned over slowly. I guess the starter is weak and on its last leg so I decided to order a good mini starter. I will let you know if that solves the problem. I am tired of these starters, this will be the third one I've replaced since putting in this 350.

Okay, thanks everyone for your help. I think I have the problem fixed (I think). My new starter sounds very strange but as long as it starts, I don't care.

The heavy duty (MX style) starters do spin up and make a different sound. Glad you fixed your problem.

gtow69 hit it right on, I had the same hot Chevy no start blues with my 1954 3100 with a V-6 4.3 and installed a Ford solenoid on the inner fender and ended the no start problem in about one hour without having to wrap or insulate anything on the starter or exhaust pipes, there is a kit sold for this for about 40.00 but I just read the online directions describing the kit and did the whole thing for about 15.00 I have not had a problem since, I hope this helps,

I have seen this problem on many many GM products in my time. I have seen all the above fixes. Some times thay work alone, sometimes they work in combination. But almost always if the starter has been overheated to the point of binding it had to be replaced and the shield added to it. A buddy (extream GM nut) almost had heart failure when he had to put a Ford part on his chevy truck to make it start.