The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Best way to remove a TF panel body...

I don't have an overhead crane, just two rolling floor jacks and a bunch of 5 ton hydraulic bottle jacks. Suggestions? The front supports are rusted out and I think the body has "settled" in the front.

as you don't have the kind of "jack" I did the way to do it is to block under the floor, jack one end then the other just enough to get some planks under longer than the width, then jack them from outside until you've got the body high enough to roll the chassis out .... have to block between the planks and the body to clear the quarters/steps, but it's not hard for one person to do it alone that way

Bill

When I've removed bodies in past, I've not had a crane either. What I did was to jack the truck up high enough that I can roll the chassis out. Because Jack stands don't usually go that high, I made wooden stands that could be slid in easily, but also used cribbing that is more stable.

Once you have it jacked and stablized so you feel comfortable that it's not going to fall, then unbolt the chassis, slowly lowering it a fraction of an inch till you're sure it is fully detached and clear.

When you have the chassis on the ground. you then build up the cribbing, placing a beam under the body at the same locations as the body mounts are located. block and shim to those points.

finally because you have "bridged" the chassis, you can roll it out.

Just keep in mind, you don't want to twist or bend your body, so keep an eye out that everything is plumb, level, etc.

I little time cosuming, but safe and effective.

I did my TF Suburban alone. Like everyone says here: Jack up body rear with a jack and install jack stands on wood blocks, or Red58's beam deal. Should take front clip off first. (way-way easier and lighter and you can see whats happening) Set front stands just in front of step. Take off all tires (don't have to raise body so high) Unbolt body and let frame down with jack on pumpkin and front middle. Steer with both jacks. When you get the rear drums near front stands, raise jacks, frame will contact body again and raise it a little, move front jacks to behind drums (strong spot). let frame down, continue rolling out. Hopefully you have calculated the correct height so that your home built wooden dolly with harbor freight wheels will roll back under, make it longish for the panel. let body down, front-rear, front-rear until down. Put tires back on chassis. Now you can roll both around. If you are changing engines, like I did, make sure you measure firewall to some places on frame so you know your new engine will not hit. If you install engine without body on, you will need this. I also added modern axles and 4X4. Jim Carter is the only place I found new body mounts for panel/Sub.(very nice people)There are 10 body bolts. Inspect carefully for cracks in frame at riveted eng/trans cross members. I wish I would have powder coated frame instead of rattle can black. I will never be cheap on that again! I'm writing a "book" on the whole process with pix.

Red and I have the same jack. (mine maybe a little more yellow)


do you have some straps and come-a-longs and some sort of overhead structure?

No, TPYLE, I'll have to do it all with jacks.

I did much the same as above but I used an engine hoist. After removing the front clip I used a couple of holes in firewall to attach a small chain. The chain fit into the hook on the hoist and then lifted body away from chassis. If you lift from the side the hoist gives you stability with the "legs" under the chassis and has much greater height capabilities. Once you put front on some type of stable platform move to the rear and repeat the process. I used two sets of Steel sawhorses and 4x4 beams as the platform. Good luck, go slow and be careful.

what ever you use get some wheel dollies so that you can zig and zag the chassis out easier

Please post pictures?