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#38978 12/06/2003 3:05 AM
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Hello Again wise ones,
Well first I was going to swap out the 235 3sp 3:90 geared rear with a 292 th400 3:07 geared set up. Then I thought about a 350 or maybee 383 instead. I just saw a local add for a 1988 chevy truck 454 complete from carb to pan with all the acesaries and brackets including a/c & power streering for $750 with 60,000 miles. Has anyone put a big block in a 59 chevy truck? Are there clearance problems for a big block vs a small block for this application. Will I be able to have power steering? what exaust manifolds or headers will work? please let me know what you think about a 454 for my panel truck your advise is appreciated.

#38979 12/06/2003 3:13 AM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I can't answer any of your questions, but I have seen a 454 in an Advance Design truck, and have one on an engine stand that I plan to put in my 55 1st Suburban. I'd say its a good idea if you want lots of torque. That's why I plan to put one in mine.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
#38980 12/06/2003 5:23 AM
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You can never have enough cubic inch smile

#38981 12/07/2003 12:44 AM
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I have a big block in my 57, fits like a glove. Sanderson makes a great set of long tube headers just for this swap. You will need to run a short water pump to gain clearance for a good size radiator. The late model engine you spoke of will have a long pump so the p/s and alternator brackets will have to be changed too. These items were on early engines and are getting hard to find.Alan Grove to the rescue, he sells all the brackets and pulleys to make this swap a snap. Good luck

#38982 12/12/2003 2:59 AM
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Thanks for the information on the pulleys and brackets. Can I use a stock BB ex manifold or does this swap require headers. Also is the tube style crossmember motor mount for small blocks ok to use with a big block? What power steering set up will work with a big block. I really want to put this 454 in my truck but I want to be aware of any other problems that I may have in doing so.
Thanks again!

#38983 12/12/2003 6:12 AM
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'Bolter
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The big block will require some work, but it is do-able. You will have to go with heavier springs. Close fit headers are needed.

The small block is a better fit, and with the right setup will make a good driver, with better economy. My 69 has a very torky 350, th400 and 307 gears, and makes a good daily driver. I can do burnouts, but nothing like what a big block will do. It all boils down to what you want out of your truck.

Plans for my 52 include a 292, th700r4, and 4.10 gears. It's a 3/4 ton, and will still be a work truck when I finish it.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#38984 12/13/2003 1:07 AM
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If you decide to go with the Alan Grove stuff, his bracket kits come with a list of all the steering pumps that will work for you. As for the exhaust question, I cant be of much help because I am running an Industrial Chassis front crossmember that uses Dodge Dakota suspension with a modified steering column and power rack. There are many different exhaust manifolds for big blocks and you may be able to find a set that will clear whatever steering box you are using. It's a crap shoot, but you can fall back on the Sandersons if nothing else will work. You can buy a tube type motor mount that will work but they sometimes limit engine placement options. It's just as easy to set the engine where you want it and build a simple set of side mounts. If youre not into fabrication, R B's sells a bolt-in set of mounts for under a hundred bucks that work pretty well. Hope this helps.

#38985 12/13/2003 8:35 PM
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How does that Dakota front suspension work out compared to the Mustang II setups? I have been considering both. Thanks

#38986 12/14/2003 9:08 PM
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In my opinion it's the way to go, for several reasons. First it's a truck front end with good strength and needs no expensive control arms to make it work. Second it's correct width in stock form, and has a roll center that more closely meets the needs of an old truck. Third it has big brakes with rotors in both 5 & 6 lugs. Fourth they hold up great, If you read any bulletin boards you are bound to see bad press on the M2's not holding up.
The Industrial Chassis crossmember seems a little pricey at first, but when all you need is a hundred dollar donor truck to finish the job, it becomes the bargain of the century.
Call Steve at I C, he's a great guy and his workmanship is top shelf.

#38987 12/17/2003 2:37 AM
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Well Wise ones, Once again the voice in my head that says to be conservative and keep it a six or a mild 350 was drowned out last night when I heard the 454 fire up and run smooth. I had to have it so I put some money down to hold it til after christmas. It is a 454 out of a 78 suburban, it has been rebuilt and has 60,000 on the motor. I was going to rebuild my old 350 for about $700 so I don`t feel bad about paying $650 for a strong, clean running 454 complete from carb to pan. Right now plans are to swap the stock intake and rochester 4v carb with a edelbrock performer intake and 600 or 750 carb. and drop it in the truck with a th400 and 3:08 rear end. Should I just drop it in or change the oil pump,cam and timing chain? Let me know what you think.

#38988 12/17/2003 8:24 PM
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For checking out a used engine, I just read an article in Chevy Hi Performance Magazine. Still on the stands, it is a compilation of several good how to articles. Tells how to check to see if an engine should be good to drive or if it will need work. Sounds like a good buy for you.

For a carb, the Q-jet that's on there is tough to beat if it isn't worn out. Should be around 850 cfm. I have a 600 Holley on my 350, and it isn't enough. If you replace the carb, minimun for a 454 is 750 cfm. Definitely replace the intake, I switched to the Performer and raised my vacuum 2".


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#38989 12/22/2003 2:53 AM
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Be prepared to get 6 miles to the gallon... but those 6 miles are going to be a blast!


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#38990 01/23/2004 10:45 PM
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Thanks everyone for your replies, Richie Z thanks for the sanderson headers tip. They are a bit pricey so I will wait to see what kind of clearance I get once the motor is in place. Anyone else out there running a big block chevy in a 55-57 truck I would really appreciate any advice or experiences good or bad with this set up. I was thinking about staying with the long water pump set up and try to move the radiator forward or just use a electric fan set up let me know what you think.

#38991 01/23/2004 10:52 PM
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BBCs are great motors. The only penalty is weight. A fully dressed-out 454 weighs around 800 lbs. Make sure your suspension setup can handle it without landing in the weeds.

Another thing I'd like to address is cam selection. Even tho the motor has been rebuilt, I suggest using a cam to compliment the compression ratio, manifolding, gears and intended useage.

good luck

chip


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Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#38992 01/23/2004 11:59 PM
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frienda mine has a very strong 427 in a 55 2nd w/ a 4spd and basicly stock front cept for a tilt column and rag joint - seen him lift the front wheels easily and high eek - he's had trouble w/ front hubs/bearings, tho' that's prolly cuz front tires too fat. and maybe cuz he tends to wheelie regular grin

he's been planning to clip the front, including power steering, but just moved to CA so no tellin when he'll get to it

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
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#38993 01/24/2004 4:05 AM
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The Best Way To Go In My Opinion Is To Go With A 472 or 500 Cadillac With Turbo 400 Trans.You Can Pick-up An Old Cad For A few Hundred.They Are Only 50 Pounds Heavier Than A Small Blook Chevy.Ive Done It.There Awsome!!! GMCJOHN


JB
#38994 01/27/2004 6:41 PM
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Hello bolters when I first got my truck running I said to myself I should just drive it til it blows up then put a V8 in it. Well I loaded the 454 in the back of my panel truck and attempted a 250 mile trip from San Jose,CA to Cottonwood, CA were my buddy with a garage lives, its between Red Bluff and Redding. After 100 miles @65mph I was starting to feel guilty about replacing the old reliable 235 when I heard this load grinding noise! Yup the 235 died sounds like the timing chain broke. I almost made it,I had past all Bay Area traffic and hills and had about 100 miles to go on flat HWY 5 but I guess the added weight and my heavy foot were to much for the old motor. I was not to disapointed since I planned to do the motor swap anyway. Now I think I should beef up the front suspension. Does anyone know what kind of springs and or shakles I should use that will hold up the added weight of the 454?

#38995 01/27/2004 6:52 PM
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235 doesn't have a timing chain so it wasn't that.

#38996 01/27/2004 7:29 PM
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Your right I ment timming gear.

#38997 01/27/2004 9:53 PM
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Best thing to do is to find a local spring shop. They can make what you need, and the price is usually less than parts & shipping mail order.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#38998 01/29/2004 1:09 AM
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Fred T Thanks for the local spring shop tip! Does anyone know of a good spring shop in the SF Bay Area? Also what about the shackles (hangers) will stock replacements work or should I cut and weld some hangers off of a newer truck or car.
Here`s an update on the parts I have collected for the 1978 454 motor so far.
edelbrock performer intake and 750 carb. Tube tranny and motor mount crossmembers, sanderson full lenth headers, new water pump,fuel pump,oil pump,brass freez plugs,timming chain, fel pro gasket set and balancer. Looks like I will run the stock cam for now. Anyone have a clue as to what kind of HP and torque I can expect? Whats the biggest radiator I can fit in a 59 Chevy?


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