The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake fluid transmission fluid and if I should add any yet(1954 3100 Chevy)

Hey, what am I taking off? The nut things that screw into a thing that screws into the square fitting, the thing that screws into the square fitting, or the square fitting itself? The square fitting is already loose, but I don't know what I'm supposed to take off.

Don't use concrete block's to hold up the truck!Unless they are the solid kind.I've personally seen the ones with the hollow's in them break!The best way is jackstand's or good solid wood blocks.Also you should be on a good concrete slab or blacktop.Soft ground can cause the blocking to shift and tip over.I just want you to be safe.If you were closer to here I'd be glad to guide ya through the repaires.But you are getting some good advice already.Tom

Solid is what I've been using.

Also, what should I buy to replace the wheel cylinders? Just the rebuild kit or the whole new thing?

Got any tricks for getting the two lines unhooked from the MC?

Jordan, please don't use a concrete block to hold the truck up. I have seen those literally crumble underneath the weight of a vehicle, and even one fall on a freind of mine once (the car was a '50 Chevy 2 door). The only thing that saved him has that the tires was still on the car. You really need a good set of jackstands to use under the truck. There's some decent ones relatively inexpensive at wal-mart, Sam's Club has really nice ones cheap, too. Sears has them also.

Ok, no more lifting the truck until I get jack stands. I just wonder what will happen to the trailers along the river near here when the concrete blocks give way. Now, does someone have any tips for getting those lines off of the mc!? (And directions on what I should be taking off? Does the nut on the line unscrew and not turn the line with it or not, because I'm thinking that I'll break the line since the line turns with the nut.)

The nut should turn, the line should not. You'll need to turn it counter clockwise (left) to loosen, which will be the case on pretty much all of the fasteners on your truck.

GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought that was how it was!

Gently tap the line as you undo the fitting - "love taps". this should separate the two. NO BFH Try some PB Blaster and let it sit a while.

get some line wrenches...Virg

Sounds like a delicate operation is needed here. I would use a small vise grip and use it, with only the pressure needed, to hold the line while I un-tightened the fitting. All this after letting it soak (over night) with some brand of lube like PT Blaster or liquid wrench.
Also like Virg says, get some brake line wrenches. Sears is the best for the money.

Ok. I'm going to go and see if I can fix something to put some pb blaster in it, attach it to the line, and wait for a day or two to try again.

Well, that didn't work. I was going to use something to submerge the line in pb blaster, but I ruined it(plastic medicine cup) doing it. Got any ideas on what I could do, or is doing that useless?

Just spray it, or use a rag to soak it - it will penetrate on it's own. You don't need to dip it, just get it wet, and let it do it's job.

That sounded bad.

No need for anything for the line to soak in, just spray the PB on the fitting. It will wick into it on its own y capillary action. You may need to give a second application.
BTW-on the can, it says it will melt plastic!

Never mind how it sounded. Anyway, yeah, I guess you're right. I googled brake wrenches and the only thing that came up looked like regular wrenches. What's different about them?

Doesn't it say it will melt only some plastic? BTW, I've probably applied it 3 times now and I've hit the fitting gently about 100 times.(I counted) I guess I'll keep trying until it comes off or the nut gets stripped.

Flare nut wrenches are made differently from regular open end wrenches. They are more like a 6 point box wrench, but with a slot i them to allow them to fit over the line. They also tend to be much thicker that a std wrench. This is to prevent them from rounding off the fittings. This is what they look like http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942012000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Wrenches

Thanks. I'll look into those.

Hi Jordan,Sounds like you are getting a little frustrated-- relax. This is supposed to be fun-- if you get upset, walk away for a while. You can sometimes borrow flare wrenches from your FLAPS- especially if they have gotten to know you (or your Mom since she sometimes buys parts for you?). Give the Blaster a chance to work-- spray it a couple of times for a couple of days.
Pound out a dent in a fender while you arew waiting - that always makes me feel better.
Keep up the good work and before you know it, you'll be truckin'.

Hi Jordan,Sounds like you are getting a little frustrated-- relax. This is supposed to be fun-- if you get upset, walk away for a while. You can sometimes borrow flare wrenches from your FLAPS- especially if they have gotten to know you (or your Mom since she sometimes buys parts for you?). Give the Blaster a chance to work-- spray it a couple of times for a couple of days.
Pound out a dent in a fender while you are waiting - that always makes me feel better.
Keep up the good work and before you know it, you'll be truckin'.

A word to the wise:

Any time a product claims to do something to some THING you can rest assured that if it's a GOOD thing they are NOT referring to your THING. On the other hand, if it's a BAD thing they ARE referring to your THING.

Jordan,
In my opinion your lines will ultimately need replaced anyway as they are old and prob full of corrosion, for safety sake I would not try and save that old hard brake line for all the more new lines will cost.
Take a hack saw or saws all cut the lines near the fitting and then go after the fittings after a good soak in PB ...you shouldnt have much trouble getting the fitings out.
There are a few things on your project that are probably best to to just sacrifice, OLD brake lines is one that is on the top of the list.
You are prob having trouble as the Old lines are frozen fast to the fitting wich is indeed holding up your removal.
It is your call on this one, But in my expeirience tryin to save old lines just isnt worth the aggrevation.
Just my 2 pennies.
Tim

I would try opening one of the bleed screws on the front wheel cyl,to get the air out.For now I wouldn't be in a rush to replace everything in your braking system.Correct me if i'm wrong,but all your wanting to do is have some brakes so you can drive safely around the yard ,untill you are ready for the road.Thats what I'v done with my one ton,I just got the worst of the air out so I can stop when i'm driving it around the yard.Just don't get going fast,and what ever you do, don't take it out on the raod.And when your ready to get it on the road then replace all the bad brake parts and do it right,that way when you need e'm they will work.Also,the best investment in your truck would be a GOOD shop manuel.

Thanks guys. Got the camera today and I'll try to get some pics up soon.