The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop S-10 Swap

Click on my "photobucket" link on my prior post on page 4 dated 01-01-2008 and you'll see all of the photos you want of the header install.

I just purchased the steering linkage, but have not been able to install it yet. When I complete the steering, I'll post the photos.

Jeff

Countilaw,

We finally got around to installing the steering linkage in my son's truck.
It turned out great with plenty of clearance between the center steering knuckle and header, as well as the upper A-arm.....I'd say about 3/4" to 1" of clearance.

We purchased the polished stainless steel Unisteer brand components. We liked the Unisteer for its smooth edge design as well as its mounting system; there is no way this system is coming apart!!!! In addition, they were cheaper than any other brand we found.
I found some real cheap ones on E-bay being sold by a company named Gearhead and/or Fatrodders.......stay away from these people. They took my money and never sent the parts. I will soon have my money back, but still waiting for Paypal.
I ended up buying these items from jegs. More expensive, but I received everything in 2 days.

I posted some steering photos on the web site below if you want to see them.

Enjoy:
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj310/rhondayou/

It really looks good. Great work. It answers some questions for me. I'll be working on my steering pretty soon. thanks
Frank

Check "frame work" in my signature below and you will see where I am today. I have started working on the new bed and fitting it to the frame in the mockup stage.

Frank

Countilaw,

Nice job!!!

Is the grey colored truck I see in the photos the one you are installing on the S-10 frame?
Why is it that you removed a section out of the center section of the frame? Is the frame from an extended cab S-10 or is the '46 a shorter wheel base than the '49 -'54 trucks?

Did your S-10 already have the V-8 conversion kit installed?
I noticed it had dual exhaust and the engine mounts look like ones from an S-10 V-8 conversion.

Are you doing your own body work?
That is one thing I won't try. I love to fabricate, but never tried my hand at body and paint.

Your engine looks great!! I'd love to do something like that to my son's engine.

Today I started disassembly of the truck.
Once it is apart, I'll complete the welding and bolting of the AD-Engineering kit to the frame.
I will also be installing 2" lowering spindels to the front and 3" lowering blocks to the rear.

I also made a wooden dolly to place the cab on once we remove it from the frame. This way we can roll it around the shop.
Once the cab is off, we'll start fabricating the custom center console.

Keep me posted.

The grey truck is a 39 Plymouth that I finished last year.
The extended cab S-10 frame is 10 inches too long. So I cut 12 inches out of the center section of the frame. Once I get the truck on the frame, I can either lenghten or shorten the frame to get the wheels centered in the fenders.

Yes some one had tried a S-10 V8 conversion.

I do all the work. Fabrication, welding, body work and painting. The only thing I don't do is the upholstery (seat covers).

Thanks 4 the kind words.

Frank

Well here goes I have recently been given yes thats right Given a 1951 Chev stepside short box, and I got it in my head that i am going to restore it, well kinda restore it. Progress so far is it is totally stripped in many organized pieces and I have just bought a s-10 frame long box and tonite after much swearing removed the front suspension. Heres the thing What the hell do I Do now LOL my experience is limited but I am really committed to project I have set aside some cash ie small mortgage lol to do this however i do not want to throw money out the window. I really need some advice on what options i have with this Frame or is it going to be cheaper to restore it to its original state, I have every piece of the truck, the 216 motor is siezed, PLEASE HELP any pictures {detailed Pictures would help} or any links of suppliers or even some of your ideas and expieiences would help. thanks

51 5 window cab to s-10 frame. ANY THING WILL HELP

That S-10 frame swap to the '51 is going to be a challenge unless tou are an experienced builder and modifier. Your biggest problem is going to be in the area of the steering box. The S-10 steering box is so far forward of the frame it's going to interfer with the inner fender, radiator support, and grille. A lot of modifications will make it work, but you'll be swearing all the way. An alternate plan would be to do a subframe graft to your original '51 frame using a '67-'69 Camaro or '69-'74 Nova. They both have the steering box mount at the rear of the front wheels. I've used this set up on a '54 and'49. Now the easiest solution of all is to contact Chassis Engineering or TCI and get one of their Mustang II rack and pinion front cross members that are made for your '51. They work real nice but they are expensive. Good Luck.

This place is a great source of info and has given me lots of ideas. I've got a 38' chevy pickup and a 92 S-10 4x4 Blazer 4 door. Anyone done a frame swap with this bodystyle?

I actually intend to keep the 4x4 running gear and switch out the 4.3 with a LS-1 350 powerplant. I hope to avoid some of the steering shaft clearance issues by moving the engine back at least 4 inches to make room for the radiator.

Can't do squat until the mud dries up though!

The Blazer frame is a little short for your needs by about 4". So you will need to modify the frame. However if you are handy with a torch and welder this should not be a problem. The LS-1 will not mate up to the existing blazer running gear. The transmission will bolt up to an LT1 or SBC, however not the LS family. The existing 7.6" differentials and T-case will also limit you on any power as this is a common failure with SBC powered S-10's. The later 8.5" diff's are stronger and highly recommended with power.

Thanks Scott
I already have a tranny for the LS-1, I just have to find a transfer case I can mate it to that will hold up to the power and have the output shaft on the left.
I knew the diffs were weak as I've blown them up before in another truck I built, so I was thinking of having a Ford 9 inch built. If the later 8.5's will hold up than I'd be just as happy though. How much fabrication will it take to switch the front diff's?
I don't plan on using the 4x4 function often. Where I live my gravel driveway is 1000 feet long and almost straight up hill. The 4x4 would be just for easing up the hill without spinning the rears.
Not to mention alot of the shows around here are out in the middle of a grassy field and I've seen more than one rod stuck on the smallest hill with wet grass.

the difference in wb. can be corrected by relocating the rear spring perches back the needed amount. they did this on a 2wd AD project on the h.a.m.b. do a search and enter "clark" and check his posts very good write up on the build.

yes!

Thanks for the link Joe.

SFHF, the Astro Van / Bravada AWD T-case is stronger than the part-time 4x4 T-cases. It is also the same T-case that is behind the Syclone and Typhoon trucks. So it will handle a stock LS1. A built LS2 or LS6 would break it. What T-case fits the 4l60e that you have is unknown to me, however, I would bet the T-case you have would fit.

The ZR2 has the 8.5" axles. There is a site on the interweb somewhere about swapping parts from the ZR2 onto a standard S-10. I found it once about 6 months ago by accident. You may want to try a google search. (Or Joe may have a link) There are also higher quality aftermarket 7.6" gear sets as well.

Scott

Thanks for the info.
I may just go with the better aftermarket gears rather than try swapping to a different setup and risk altering the geometry of the running gear. I figure that I'm building the truck for an everyday driver, not a racing machine and I'm too old to risk my neck like I did when I was younger.

I may leave the 4.3 in it for now until I have the LS-1 rebuilt and find out how compatable the 4L60 is with transfer cases. The big thing for me to tackle now is the bodywork. I'm just now pulling the cab apart so I can lift it off the old frame.
Measurements, measurements, measurements.