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#38337 08/19/2003 5:03 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
C
Shop Shark
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C Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
Hey guys

I started building the '60 235 last night. I've got the crank installed, the mains plastigauged between .0015" and .002". Crank end play was .0065". Got the timing plate and camshaft installed too. Couple of questions:

Any reason not to install the timing cover and balancer next?

How many of you guys have oil pumps with the little hardened washer captured in the top of the oil pump?? Machine shop gave me a washer to put between dist and pump, but its not captured. If I pull dist, theres a chance it could fall into oil pan.

thanks

chip


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#38338 08/19/2003 6:43 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,773
On the timing cover, I wait until the head is on and I'm ready to install the oil pan. I assume that you threaded the front main housing for the timing cover bolts?

And you better hope Proffit doesn't see that you used plastigage! grin


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#38339 08/19/2003 7:39 PM
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 394
O
'Bolter
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O Offline
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Posts: 394
I don't really think it makes a difference wether you put your timing cover on now or later. The only reason I install it, is to keep that area clean. One thing I might add is to check your backlash as well as your valve timing, first then the cover. GOOD LUCK.. smile

#38340 08/19/2003 8:26 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
C
Shop Shark
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C Offline
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Posts: 962
I had degreed the M4F cam when I built the engine the last time. Same crank, gears and cam, and timing plate, so I assume (dangerous) that nothing has changed. Valve timing and backlash were dead accurate last time.

Used the spray Hylomar on the timing plate gasket, so I want to finish bolting it down tonight. Also used the gel hylomar on the rear main cap mating area. I did do the timing cover conversion for front bolts. crank snout is drilled too.
What length balancer bolt do you guys use?

Any ideas on the pump washer? Just stick it in, or try to fasten it to pump somehow?

Been using rubber gloves during assembly, I must've gone thru 8 or 10 pair by now. Doing my best to keep it clean & free of lint and shreds of towels, etc.

Any of you guys running stock distributors: Have you recurved your mechanical advance or done any other mods?? I'm going to have to disassemble my dist, clean and rebuild with a new roll pin and petronix. Any stock dist experiences are needed. I'm gonna check my dist end-play and stuff before installing oil pan.

And Proffit can kiss my hot compressor. grin


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#38341 08/19/2003 9:13 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 523
J
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If you think about how long Chip's engines last...
Plastigage or PASTAGAGE it really doesn't matter
Please do check the backlash on the cam
The only thing that changes cam timing is if you linebored the mains again

Thanks for the offer but you not my type

I really hope you have better luck this time

#38342 08/19/2003 10:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,586
T
Extreme Gabster
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Chip, I doubt many have seen an oil pump with the captive washer, it may be like the "special grooved head bolt", just talk, but perhaps someone out there has one and can post a photo. I have recurved several 235/261 distributers,makes quite a difference on a modified engine .An engine with a cam and more carb seems to respond well to about 34 degrees of total advance,all in by 2800-3000 rpm.Just take one advance spring off and replace it with a lighter spring from on of those small block dist tuning kits, usually close enough if you don't have a Sun Dist machine in your pocket. You may have to limit the vacuum advance, just put a length of #14 wire in the slot of the vacuum can control lever.Forget about the timing at idle, use a set back light if your damper isn't degreed.

#38343 08/20/2003 5:00 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 962
C
Shop Shark
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What size is the roll pin on a stock dist gear?

I found a little bit of old gunk/sludge hiding between the oil pump mount and block last night. I tilted the motor down at a 45* angle and covered cam and crank with rags, then cleaned out gunk with brake cleaner and rags. Then I wiped off cam and crank journals and refogged with WD-40 and Clevite 77 assembly lube.

Where else can crap hide in this block? The block has been tanked and jet-washed at the shop, then I took it home and poured hot soapy water and hot hosewater through it and all galleys. Then wiped it out several times and fogged with WD-40. Man I thought I had it clean!!

I'm going to wipe the crankcase out tonight and double check for any more crap, then start installing pistons/rods.

Any more advice?

thanks

chip


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#38344 08/21/2003 7:44 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,897
M
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Make sure your PASTA-gage is at the right temp and properly cooked before you use it grin


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
#38345 08/21/2003 3:28 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,773
I've never seen an oil pump with a washer on one of these engines. Just don't know. For the damper bollt and washer I bought one for a 350 at the parts store. Can't recall the length. Reason I wait on the timing cover is in case I screwed something up so I didn't have to take it off again.

Good luck with the hot compressor, sounds like fun! grin


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10

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