The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop spin on filter

i would like to get rid of my manifold oil filter and put a spin on mounted on the fender well has anyone done this the old ones are so messy to deal with for a everyday driver

I'm moving this to engine and driveline. When it gets over there tell us what engine and year.

Subscribing to this thread

Hey Czechman,

I am doing the same with my 55 2nd. It has the 58-62 block which is full flow and was easy to tap. It is in the machine shop now so I had him tap out the holes. It is being re-assembled as we speak.

I am thinking of either puting the oil filter bracket on the firewall or inner fender. I will be watching this thread. Hopefully, we will get some pictures of what others have done.

Thanks

Dennis,

It sounds like your high-pressure 235 is being adapted for a full-flow filter and you are looking for photos of a spin-on filter.

Here is what I did with a full-flow spin-on filter for a 1960 261. Your oil lines will most likely be a smaller diameter than the ones used for a 58-62 261. Some people like to place the filter head closer to the block, with shorter lines and fewer bends.

http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/261left.jpg

http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter2.jpg

http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter1.jpg

I do not know where I will put the filter when I put the 261 in my 1954 Suburban. I might go back to the original full-flow 261 canister filter (58-62) on the intake manifold.

Tim

Tim,

Did you run that one line between the exhaust pipes?
Where did you buy the filter part?

Hi Tim. Thanks for the pictures.

Czechman. I have the same setup. I bought mine at NAPA.

Tim. You mention line sizes. This is for the remote filter. What size is appropriate? And if I could use the clamp-on the manifold filter. Could I use larger lines or the same size lines that I bought from one of the vendors?

Visual originality is cool but with the new plumbing do I need to go remote filter?

Thanks again.

Dennis,

I am not recommending a remote filter but you asked to see some photos of filters on the fender or on the firewall (that would be "remote").

As I said above, some people like to have the full-flow filter near the block (I have seen photos of the filter head attached to the block just above/below the oil pan).

Regarding oil line diameter, wait to hear from someone who knows about these things. My choice would be to have lines that match the diameter of your fittings on the converted 235 block. Your fittings will most likely be a smaller diameter than the 1/2" NPT fittings and lines that came from the factory on 58-62 261 truck blocks.

Woody,

Yes, there are dual exhausts on the 261 and one of the oil lines is right between them. The original oil lines on 58-62 261s had metal standoff tubes/pipes that were screwed into the block on both sides of the exhaust pipe (and allowed you to sleep better, knowing te rubber hoses were not near the exhaust pipe). You can see the stand-off tubes in this photo.

Summit Racing and JEGS have a variety of filter heads. A few years ago, I saw a nice kit on a shelf at Pep Boys.

I will most likely make stand-off tubes when I put the original full-flow canister filter on the intake manifold.

Tim

Tim,

I've always thought that wasn't the best choice for a place to put those oil lines, so close to the exhaust and with duals things really get tight. I remember one guy here ran a hard line between the pipes and wrapped it, but then re-routed it between the exhaust and the block.

It just seems that the engineers could have put those fittings somewhere not so close to the exhaust... but what do I know?

this pictures a litttle hard to see and i got the parts from o'reilly. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2204309850062793147cvGafo

Go to NAPA and ask for a WIX 24755 adaptor with the bypass filter P/N 1150 I think. I am at work so ain't sure about the filter #. Doing this to my 235 now. Really nice alumionum adaptor that I mounted to the firewall in my COE. I am running aluminum tubing from the frame to the filter, and hose to the engine from the frame.

32fire2...you didn't mention if your engine was a stock 235, had been modified for full-flow filtering or a 261. If by chance it is a stock 235 you will need to stick with the small stock inside diameter lines that match your manifold mounted bypass lines. If it is a modified 235 for full flow you'll need to use 1/2" lines that adapt down to the 3/8NPT fittings on the modified block. On the 261 the full-flow fittings are 1/2".

In a bypass (stock) setup, using a larger line than the stock line to your remotely located filter will result in loss of pressure to your bearings. On a modified full-flow 235 using too small a line will restrict flow to the filter with the same results. Incidently, on a modified 235, the pressure feed port is reversed from the bypass filter. The front port becomes the pressure feed and the rear port becomes the return to the bearings. If you are interested, I have pictures of my adventures in plumbing in a remotely located full-flow filter on my modified 235 in my Webshots album "Tips and Tricks." BTW...I have 3500 miles on my rebuilt engine with great oil pressure and oil temp that stays at 180 degrees...same as thermostat rating.

You need to make sure that your remote filter mount uses a 3/4X16 center so that you can run a filter with a built-in check valve. Such as a Purolator PL30001.

Dave

I put a spin on filter on my 38 & simply plumbed it the same as the canister filter. I put the spin on adapter on the firewall instead of the fender.

This topic has been discussed many times so your best bet would be to do a search. There is a wealth of information here. I also installed a remote filter kit purchased from NAPA and ran it in the provided rubber lines but felt they were too close to the dual exhaust down pipes. I tore those out and installed my new lines on my 261 (full flow) in 1/2" stainless steel. There are some pics of that work in the engine rebuild album on the webshots link below. Good luck!

I just modified my '57 235 block to accommodate a full flow filter and searched the 'Bolt for mounting ideas and adapter kits. The topic has been covered pretty well, as 49 geezer mentions. Here's a link to a good thread that contains a link (provided by 49 geezer)to NAPA for the kit.

I still haven't decided where to mount the filter, but like the pricing of the aforementioned kit. Also, if you scroll up in the thread you'll see a photo of a manifold mounted filter.

One 'Bolter, I forgot who, stated something to the effect "to heck with all of this filter nonsense as the old engines are still clunking and will continue to do so after we are gone."
I've given careful consideration to that advice and tend to agree to some extent, but nevertheless did drill and tap the block for the modification. I just wish my engine wasn't torn apart right now allowing me to do so.

Don

well my motor is a 1963 235 in a 52 chevy so the canister thats on the manifold could be 52 or 63 but if it didnt have a filter i wouldnt add one but sence it dose id like to change it to spin on all my vw beetles dont have filters i just change the oil once a month in them but with a filter you can go longer and with gas prices high oil is to thanks for the help