The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 header

Hi All,

I was just wondering if anyone has built there own header for a 235? If so did you cut your own flanges,buy flanges,or??.Where can I buy them if I have to?Any tips on building?Thanks in advance!Al

By the way she's a 57 210 post.235/3on the tree Thanks Al

There have been flanges on EBay along with all assortment of headers. Also, people like Tom Langdon of Stovebolt Engine Co. carrys somealong with other aftermarket providers.

Thanks Drew,I hadn't seen them on Ebay but I will check with stovebolt.Al

Try Speedway Motors. I've seen tubular headers for the 235 sold there.

try here and see if you could talk them out of flange only. http://www.cliffordperformance.net/...duct_Code=52-0025&Category_Code=C235

I made the flange out of a pc of 3" x 3/4" flatbar. The pipe was a 2" 90 deg heavy wall steel elbow. Look here for pic's:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2222838800023244788GnPVLa

Hey thanks for the help guys,I think in the end I will make my own.The prices are far too steep for me! Al

If you split your original manifold and put a piece of flat stock where ou make the split, do you have to put a one inch hole in that plate or leave it intact. I have heard both.

Curt...I looked at your photos! great job! That is exactly what I want to do. What method did you use to weld up the manifold? I've heard that you can MIG weld the cast iron, but also that torch welding is a better weld but that involves preheating the parts. Relief of the welds is also necessary to prevent cracking with slow cooling. How did the steel weld up? How did you remove the cast under the exhaust elbow you added. thanks for pics.

It was economical for me. $5.00 for the elbow, flange and blockoff plates were scrap laying around and a bottle of rye for the welder. Just take the time to fit it so the flow is smooth and prep nice bevels with 1/16" lands for the welder. Procedure for steel pipe to cast manifold was preheat to 400 deg., use UTP FN85 cast rod, peen short welds in between passes, and cool slow with blanket, sand, etc. I should have taken more pictures after welding. This is all I've got:

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/exhaust/?action=view&current=000_0020.jpg

As for a hole I think any method that allows the 2 sides to mix "pollutes" the cackle it makes.

Curt, Thanks for the welding info. I have been looking into different cast rod types, but info on the web is so mixed it's hard to know what actually works. I have little call to weld cast iron so it is good to see a piece actually done. Did you use your barbecue to preheat or an oven? how critical is the preheat temp.? did you have to reheat between passes? I knew that you had to relieve the weld with peening,but how long were your passes? Thanks again, Bill

The welders around here have sticks that look like crayons with a temp marked on the side and when they rub it across the pc. it makes a line if it's too cool and melts instantly if temp is correct. I'm sure any welding supply has them. He used a rosebud torch to warm it, checked with the temp stick and then went at it. I think beads were no longer than 1/2" before peening and he warmed it a bit after every third weld or so. After painting I put them in the barbecue at 400 deg for 30 min. as per the can and it's held up well. They did smell like steak when I mounted them though.

Curt,That is the best info I have ever read about splitting a 235 manifold!!!!BAR NONE!!I just happen to know a Boiler welder (expensive,but excellent work)I thank you.By the way,does anyone know what the runner size(ID)is on an aftermark header is?I am a pretty good welder/fabricator not a great speller LOL and am toying with the idea of just building my own!Any ideas?All thoughts welcome pro or con.Thanks Al P.S. My nine year old niece named my car for me (57 210)Here it is JOHNNY BLACK CATALAC !! She drew the car and wrote Her name under it!!SOOOO BITCHIN Al

I built headers for my 216 back in the early '50's, and am building headers for my 292 now. Just get flanges cut out, you can do it yourself with a cutting torch, and start welding, make measurements often and make sure you clear everything. I like thick flanges, I used 3/8" plate for mine. The sound of a 6 with headers is GREAT!! I can hardly wait to hear my 292 when I finish them up.

Bigal21057
The intake port ID in a 235 head is 1.36 in. The ID of land machined in the head for the ring is 1.51. The Offenhauser manifold for the dual carb setup says the machined land in their manifold is 1.55 in. and the carb port dia. is 1.7 in. I could find no information about ID of the runners or the plenum of the manifold. It stands to reason that the runners are not as large as the plenum as the ring land is machined to fit 1.55 OD. I have been wondering myself if increasing the runner size or plenum size of a manifold slightly would affect the performance of carburation. I know the head intake is 1.36 in. and the carb flange ID is 1.56 in(for a Rochester), but in between them I don't know. Maybe some really smart carb guy can answer the question. My feeling is that if you keep the manifold carb port and plenum the same size, lets say 1.7in, as the Offy states, and the runner ID slightly larger than the ring OD. (1.55) you would probably be OK, but that is truly a guess.