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#36123 01/17/2002 6:25 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 | Have a 64 Chevy pu w/ 283 3spd. On the clutch rod pivot, there are two pivot bolts, one goes in a slotted hole on the frame, the other went directly into a threaded hole in the engine block. These bolts have "ball ends" that support the clutch pivot mechanism. The one that goes into the engine snapped off flush with the block. :mad: Two questions: 1) ideas on removing the broken bolt (pretty tight quarters for drilling/easy out)? 2) looking at catalogs, appears there is a bracket that mounts to the block and the pivot bolt attaches to that bracket. Is that common, better, worth switching over to?
Appreciate any ideas....
64swb
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#36124 01/17/2002 7:05 PM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | It is a possibility that the broken part may come out if worked a little around the edges of the broken part stuck in the bell-housing.I have even had them come out with just my fingers(watch out for sharp edges). The most likely situation will be having to find someone who has an angle-head drill that is reversable and a left handed drill-bit.You may have to take the bell-housing out of the truck to get to the culprit(broken piece).
(Or maybe get all believing stovebolters to pray that it will come out willingly!!)
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#36125 01/18/2002 12:21 AM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | One trick that I have used sucessfully in cases like this is to use a die grinder (or Dremel) with a small cutoff wheel (dremel style 1" dia.) to cut a slot in the broken top of the bolt being careful not to nick the engine block. Then use a flat screwdriver in the slot. I used this trick to remove a broken valve cover bolt on my Miata. Add a bunch of penetrating oil to help smooth things along. If the top is broken at an angle and you need to drill out the bolt, you can use a small end mill in a die grinder to level things out. Always center punch before you drill!
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
#36126 01/18/2002 11:20 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 95 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 95 | 64swb: Thread is righthand. Jack up truck on left and lay under engine. You have good access there. Use a "cape chisel". 1 or 2 wacks with a small or med hammer is all it takes. Strike stud in a counter/clockwise direction. Work it out, 1 or 2 turns and then you can grab with fingers. This will work on clutchhead screws also. First try using some liquid wrench or Wd40 to lube broken stud. Think Chevy! 
Houston? , We have a problem!
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#36127 01/18/2002 1:21 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 146 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 146 | 64swb try all the stated above because all suggestions are very good. And it should work like this. Removing a broken bolt is an exercise in patience. You can try heating around the bolt in the block with a torch before going one step further. If nothing else works, and if You know how to weld, get a nut with the same size of the broken bolt, put the nut over it and weld the nut to the broken bolt. You'll have to do it with a stick electrode. NO torch here. Mig process also ok. If You do it carefully, You will not damage the block and the bolt will go out. After welding take some time the allow the weld to cool dowd, and move the driving wrenck slowly in a way to loose the bolt without breaking the weld. It's always a last resource, not the first. And this one saved me many times.
Alexandre Garcia
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#36128 01/18/2002 4:52 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 | Thanks for tips on removing bolt. Sounds like some good ideas. Little penetrating oil, little patience and hopefully I will be back in business
Any thoughts on "bracket or no bracket"? Was this a later year innovation?
64swb
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#36129 01/19/2002 12:32 PM | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | The Dremel idea is good if you have a Dremel. Cut slot That plus: Penetrating oil, Heat gun - just warm it up - not too hot, just very warm. use flathead screwdriver if all the ideas mentioned fail, then you need to use an extractor. if that doesn't work - sell the truck and go fishing. don't worry, be patient, you'll get it. | | |
#36130 01/28/2002 1:51 AM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 | Thanks to all for great advise! used some penetrating oil, removed the oil filter to get access, fit the dremel with a small diameter grinding wheel and cut a notch. Heated the area around the bolt with a propane torch and next thing you know the bold was turning right out! 
64swb
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#36131 01/28/2002 9:01 AM | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 247 | You can also use reverse drill bits, if you can find some. They'll back a busted bolt right back out without any other persuasion. I've been looking all over trying to find some lately (had a couple snapped bolts myself). but have been unable to find any, including online. Anybody know of a source? | | |
#36132 01/28/2002 6:11 PM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Try Snap-On,,Matco or a tool supply store.
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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