The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop The big swap

I have located and Purchased a 235 from a 1964 Chevrolet PU, It runs great, I hope to swap this engine with my 1951 non-pressurized 235 in my COE, Is there anything I should be prepared for and aware of before I begin the swap? any of the mounts or manifolds and such knowen not to be compatable? Or Flywheels and Transmission bolts?
Thanks!

Are you sure it's a 235. I was under the impression that 1962 was the last year.

Maybe the truck's not a 64. Larry's right, 62 was last year for 235. Anyway, if it is a 235 it should be a very straight-forward swap. Except you'll need a short shaft water pump. Lots of posts on this site about 235 swaps. Do a search of topics containing "235 swap". Good luck.

You might need to find a updraft carb and intake for a 235 too,I am not sure if the ones from the 216 will work on a 235. If they dont I have seen the updraft carbs on the bread type trucks too.

I guess there's no need to do a swap, I replaced a battery post end, and found a broken coil wire, added gas, and the old girl fired right up! Took the girlfriend for a short cruise, and were both still trying to wipe the grin's off our faces. What a great feeling. No knocks, no ticks, just a seized choke cable to worry about. Now I have to find someone in my area well versed in rebuilding the babbet bearing engine. One concern is the shifter bushing, it has a lot of play in it where it connects to the floor. I can't wait to get it all in working order! thanks for the info guys!

When I was working in a local machine shop, we converted a lot of babbited rods to insert-type bearings with a special bearing set from Federal-Mogul. The babbit is melted out with a torch, at fairly low heat, the big end of the rod is bored to the correct size, and the bearing fits into the rod like the later models. No more shimming, fitting, or any of the other headaches associated with poured bearings! It's got grooves for the splash lubrication, and uses all the original dippers, etc., just like the babbit rods.
Jerry

I think i would still go get the 235. The dripper/dipper motor and babbit will cost more than its worth to fix ,i would just keep it till it dies. You will also be hard pressed to find someone to do the work at a good price or a good job. 1200 bucks to do the model t motor and that was just to pour and fit the babbit. I can do one of my 235/261 for about 1000 US dollars complete. So dont loss that other motor. Smiles will turn to frowns when a rod crawls out some nite coming back from that ice cream cone after you spend big money on a babbit rebuild . Been down that road.

Sounds like a good idea to me, I think I'll keep the original engine as long as it stays together. When the body shop takes the cab off to do the body work I'll replace any gaskets that need done, replace the choke cable and drive it like that until it gives up the ghost. Then worry about swapping the engine or rebuilding that one. Once again thanks for the great info and idea's guys.

Not sure about the Canada trucks. I would look carefully at the engine and casting #'s.

Thanks Ralphy, I would definatly like to keep the truck as original as possable, and while its running I will source out a good rebuilder for if and when it ever dies, that way I won't have to settle for the first one I find in a rush later. The place I bought it from says they can rebuild the engine no problem, I've seen there restoratioins and there impressive to say the least. One more question, when I change the oil tonight, what do I do with the oil bath air cleaner? can I wash it out in varsol? and does it use the same oil as the engine? its got a kind of fiber filter and I don't want to damage it. Thanks again guys!

Yes the air cleaner uses engine oil, and yes, you can wash out the top section in solvent. The upper section uses aluminum wool as a filter element, I believe, and it's definitely washable. Let it drip dry thoroughly before restarting the engine, though. Back in the bad old days, a friend washed his air cleaner in gasoline, reinstalled it wet, and got a serious over-rev condition when he fired it up! The fast idle cam for the automatic choke was in the topped-out position, and those gas vapors made it rev up enough to make the rods rattle.
Jerry