The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering Box Lube

I know it has been discussed here in the past, but one more time - what is the best steering box lubrication for a 41-46 steering box that won't leak out? The "won't leak out" part may be tough, but there must be something.

Thanks,
Joe :crazy:

Hi Joe, This may seem like a stupid question but why don't you just fix the leak and refill with the proper fluid?

By the way I saw the photos of your 37 and the truck looks outstanding especially the engine.

Dave

Fill the box with chassis lube (grease). Been done to many boxes that the bottom bushings/seals are a bit old & loose.
Works just fine.
Doug

Desertdog is right! Chassis lube works excellent. Thats what I did on my '46. No leaks and it vastly improved steering.

Do what you wish, but I say, "Don't fill it with chassis grease"! This has been discussed, tossed around, chewed up and spit out more times than Carter’s has pills. Chassis grease or grease in general, does not flow, unless it is quite hot. If you do manage to get any grease into the balls when you pump it in, it, won’t be long before it is worked out of the guides. After working the steering for a shot while you will leave a hollow pocket in the grease, a process somewhat resembling cavitation, leaving the ball nut and worm without lubrication. These are meant to be in a bath of fluid lubricant.
The only logical solution from where I stand is to reseal the steering gear. This is not a major project by the way, from a labor or cash standpoint, then fill with Penrite Steering lubricant. Or as a second choice, a heavy gear lubricant which is what the greasers used at the Chevy dealerships that I worked in back in the 50’s.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I have to agree with Denny, fix the leak.
Cleon

No doubt that the movement of the sector may displace some grease which may not immediately flow back. But, isn't that the same thing that happens in wheel bearings. Pack one of those & 10 or 15 thou. mi. later inspect it & the hub, see where the grease migrated to. Ball, roller, whatever, a film remains & apparantly does the job.
Even in a oil filled truck bearing hub, at least 75% of the time the bearing is out of the oil sump in the bottom due to design limitations.
With all due respect I fail to see how or why a steering box bearing, given its useage, loading, & speed conditions requires more TLC than the wheel br'g.
Doug

OK....as others said DONOT use gun grease,,if you have leaks go to a JD dealer and get corn head lube,,it willnot cavity and it will flow...doc

Chassis grease was the preferred steering gear box lubricant for those vehicles, and even for the newer ones with the recirculating ball setup, but not for those with power steering. You can use a grease gun, hand-operated or otherwise, but don't keep pumping until you run out of grease- what you will find is grease dripping out of the horn wire opening in the mast jacket- or from the turn signal bundle opening on newer vehicles. (I don't think it matters how I happen to know that.) The general practice was to poke the gun nozzle well into the box and give a couple of pumps on the gun while drawing the nozzle slowly upward. Pull the nozzle out; if the grease is at the bottom of the plug hole, enough, otherwise give it a little more.

Harvester

This is the printed information about "Steering Gear Lubrication" found in the 1942-1946 Chevrolet Shop Manual for Trucks:

STEERING GEAR LUBRICATION

"The steering gear is filled at the factory with a special all-season gear lubricant. Saesonal change of this lubricant is unnecessary and the housing should not be drained. Whenever required, additions should be made using a lubricant which, at low temperatures, is fluid and will not "channel" or cause "hard steering" and which will provide satifactory lubrication under extreme summer conditions. Steering gear lubricants marketed by many oil companies, "All Purpose" or "Universal" gear lubricants or "Chassis Lubricants" are satisfactory to use.

The pipe plug is installed in its particular location in the steering gear housing to prevent over-lubrication, generally occasioned by the use of a pressure gun. Over-lubrication of this unit might result in forcing lubricant up the steering gear mast jacket to the horn button and steering wheel."

Hope this helps...

Any job worth doing is worth doing right. Give it a new gasket and rebuild if needed.

Thanks a bunch guys!
As I said, I know this subject has been around before, but I also knew that I could get a good recap of the general feeling on this matter. I personally tend to agree to the "fluid" type of lubricant. The box did leak bad. To counter act that problem, I put grease in it. It still leaked, so I have worked on it and gotten it to the point where there is no more leakage. Now to clean out the grease - flush it, if you will, and to back with a "flowing" lubrication. I definitely can not argue with the notion that a "flowing" lubricant is the right choice. I know that it is what Chevrolet suggests, so, I agree, that is the answer. I just wanted one last reassurance that I had the right thinking process on this matter.

Joe

ATTA BOY JOE.

John Deere Corn Head Grease works wonderful....Will flow at low temps...

This might help until you can fix the leak. I have an old Oliver tractor that I rebuilt the steering box. The original factory specs called for 90 wt oil, but there were so many problems with leaking the manufacturer changed to using grease. People on the tractor board with experience with these boxes said John Deere cornhead grease was good. It is soft enough to get into the bearings, yet will not leak. Also, it doesn't get stiff in cold weather. Hope that helps.

yes gear greese works fine it also works in outboards with leaky seals

What was funny was, I didn't notice there were all those other posts, I thought there were just two posts. I didn't see there was a big discussion ahead of mine. All the best.

I will not discuss the lube to use, make your own decision. But if the box still leaks, it is probably from around the sector shaft. If so, the seal needs replacing. The seal that comes with the steering box rebuild kits sold by the vendors is trash. Get a genuine one from GM. Part #07801626. Did the trick for me.

Do not use gun grease as it will harden over time with no lubrication...doc

New seals, bushings are easy to install and relatively cheap plus work really well. I used 80-90w gear oil and all is working well.