| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
7 members (Brian Moore, tclederman, Lightholder's Dad, jupitor, treegrower, GMCJammer51, J Lucas),
223
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,952 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 71 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 71 | hello
i found a short step bed which was turned into a trailer. if i purchase this i will need to ship it to my home. how difficult is it to dissassemble one of these beds? what tools will be needed? naturally i am only concerned about the bed and not the frame, wheels etc. i am guessing that it will be cheaper to ship the pieces rather than try to have the trailer shipped/towed.
thank you. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 26 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 26 | It really depends on how far it needs to be moved. If it's not that far you could just pull the empty trailer back with a car or mini van. I've seen truck box trailers that were built on light frames, and I've seen them built on the truck frames with the truck rear end. Those types are really heavy.
There's not much to taking them apart. As I recall you'll need a 1/2" and 9/16" ratchet and socket and and bring some extensions. If it's still bolted down to the chassis you might need 5/8" too, but I can't remember the size exactly. Don't forget to bring a swivel. It's safest to just bring full wrench and socket sets - include 1/2" and 9/16 deep well sockets. Vice grips might be helpfull too.
You'll probably need a side cutter to cut free the wiring.
Also, you'll need a 1/2" square socket to remove the bed strips. The nuts on the bottom of the strips are square (at least they are on wide beds). I didn't have one when I needed it at 2AM so I used an oddball 1/2 female to 1/2" female swivel that I've had for years and never found a use for. I just welded it so it could no longer swivel and it worked fine.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Depending on the year, the rear cross sill may be spot welded to the bed sides next to the tail gate. If you have a grinder handy they are easy to break, but be prepared.
If it was put on a trailer frame you probably don't know how it got attached to the frame, it may not be the same as original, and it may have some welds or hidden damage you don't want to deal with. People tend to abuse trailers.
You can buy a very good repop bed from MAR-K so I wouldn't spend too much on a tired old one unless it is in A-1 shape.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 71 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 71 | thank you for your reply
is the mar-k bed a good quality bed, close to original?
thanks | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Mar-K is a very high quality bed, made in the USA. They are about the only repop parts worth anything on these trucks.
Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | |
|
|
| |
