The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Need advice on Mustang II IFS install - 55 2nd

I am still a newbie and am in the process of removing everything in front of the cab on my 55 2nd series truck in preparation for a new IFS. I am still a bit undecided about which brand, but I am leaning towards the Heidts. I still have a few weeks to make my final decision. (By the way, I am open for any last minute recommendations!)

I am thinking about using 16 x 7 rims for the finished truck and the 2" drop spindle. The truck will be minus the engine and transmission for the install. I will be eventually install a ZZ4 350 with a 700r4 tanny.

I am going to complete all of the layout work but I am going to hire a professional welder to come in and complete the final welds.

I am fishing for any recommendations from those who have been down this road before. Any tips? Any suggestions regarding ride height, special reinforcements to compensate for no struts, centering of the wheels/tires?

Any advice is welcomed and appreciated!

Ross

I used a TCI mustang suspension. We had never done any of this before. We tack welded the suspension in and then had a professional welder come in and finish. He said we did a tremendous job of welding it in. We also have a zz4 350 and a 700R4 tranny. We didn't use the drop spindles though. Thought it would be to low. Check it out on our web page at the bottom. We have a TCI 4 link in the rear, we used the original axle center mark on the frame and then moved it about an inch and a half forward . We put the bed back on and centered everything up from there. Coach Frank

I like the fatman front suspension with the tubular control arms. Check them out on the web and read the thread on here about installing a muststang bolt in front suspension. Look what I wrote about why I like the fatman over the rest...but please note they are all good, TCI, HEIGHTS, KUNGEL, ETC. The fatman suspension is my personal preference because of that heavy front cross member. good luck. let us know and post the pix.

http://www.fatmanfab.com/products.htm

i have installed different brands and heidts is the best

John have you ever installed the FATMAN IFS and if so what was it that you did not like? Why do you perfer the HEIGHTS over the rest? Thanks, Dave.

A couple of years ago there was quite a long thread on the IFS subject and as I remember the Fatman was pretty well trashed by a bunch of guys that had bought the product and were not pleased with both the product and the service from Fatman. That discussion caused me to choose the Heights IFS for my project.

I have a 57 TF truck and I am just about ready to order up the front IFS kit from TCI. I read and read and read some more here and other websites regarding the pros and cons of all the popular name brands. I am going with TCI because of quality of construction, availability of the kit (when I called a few of the other manufacturers, they said it could take several weeks to get the kit to me), price, and overall satisfaction from those who have done this before. They have tubular a-arms, power rack upgrade, free shipping, and free engine/trans mounts when ordered via their ebay store/auction. I am SURE that some of the others are great too, I just feel like TCI is the one that has the best "bang for the buck"... I am interested in hearing what others have to say about the various brands and especially WHY they went with the brand they picked...
Dan B

The only advice I would pass along is that if you are going to use tubular lower arms (eliminating the strut rods) then you will want to go with as stout a crossmember as you can find. The strut rods were an integral part of the original MII suspension and transfered some of the suspension forces to the frame. Eliminating the strut rods apparently puts additional "twisting" stress onto the crossmember itself. Hotrodders.com has some horror stories about MII crossmembers that cracked under the increased strain.

I had originally planned to go with the full tubular lower a-arms until I held them in my hands and saw how they were designed to be mounted to the crossmember - 3" piece of tubing welded to the back of the crossmember with a gusset. To me it didn't look like a good idea, but hopefully the crossmember manufacturers did their homework before they redesigned the lower arm/crossmember like that.

I have a 55 2nd and used the TCI M2 frontend.I understand Heidts,and Fatman are also good setups.Very important to follow the measurements on the instructions.I had to send one Email to them concerning the power steering hookup.They use,or did a few years back a power rack and pinion unit from a Thunderbird.So by me using a GM pump, I had to put a pressure reducung valve in it.The TBird units operates at 7 to 800 PSI, whereas the GM pump puts out about 1300 PSI,which would blow the seals in the TBird unit if the pressure was not dropped.I also used the TCI rear suspension package,which consisted of new 5 leaf springs, spring mounts and shackles,shocks and mounts.Also flipping the rearend.I had good luck with both setups from TCI.Whatever you buy,make sure to follow the instructions. I am also runninmg a 350,and 700R4 trans.which works out very nice with the stock 3:90 rearend.Hope this helps you make uip your mind.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

I did read the articles in Hotrodders.com. I am still a bit concerned about the lack of struts. I was told that you can get stuts for a Heidts kit if you do not go with Tubular arms.

dale937

It is good to hear you like the 350 / 700R4 transmission combo. How was the install? Do you mind if I ask a few questions about engine mounts and transmisssion supports? What did you use? Are you still using the stock 3.9 rear end? Can you give me any leads on a good radiator / shroud that will cool a 350 and yet fit into the second series?

Ross

Thanks!!!!

Dave I dont like Fatman because the lower crossmember is only welded on the bottom not the sides of the frame, and the top spring pockets are marked and you have to cut them yourself for anti dive or caster. Also the top spring pockets are not angled to fit the angles of the coil heidts is. dont get me wrong a fatman will work fine is just like the design and pre cut top spring pockets its faster and easier to install

dave i also use the full a-arms