The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Stupid Paint Question

If the paint you use is formulated to bond to bare metal you can bypass primer. Every paint I've used recommends application over primer. When all else fails, read the instructions.

Always prime.

It would be wise to prime first. The primer is designed to adhear to the bare raw metal. Then the paint will stick to the primer. Also you will get a better looking finish if primer is used first.

The primary purpose of primer is to prepare the surface for the top coat. If the part has been blasted and has no dents or things that need filling, just smooth the primer down with a green Scotch pad which I believe can be found in grocery stores and home improvement stores in the paint section.

Don't use sandpaper because you are very likely to sand through the primer on the corners and edges. A Scotch pad is cushioned and you just want to knock off any lumps or dust that got on the part.

Regardless of what you are painting, the finish is no better than the prep work. If you keep that one fundamental fact in mind no matter what you paint, it will be good.

Surface prep is all about details. Be meticulous with those tiny corners and crevices especially on detail items like your vent frames. What you want is a part that brings you pride every time you look at it and that vent frame is going to be just a few inches from your face every time you're in the truck so do it right.

While I don't agree with Czechman about not using sandpaper, I do agree with the admonishment to be detail oriented. While scotchbrite might do an OK job, nothing beats a good old wetsand to smooth primer. Any roughness or texture in the primer will transfer to the topcoat. As for what grit of paper to use, read the instructions on the can of paint. If the paper's too fine the paint won't bond well. If the paper's too coarse the sand scratches will show through the topcoat (any roughness or texture will show through). The paint manufacturers spend a LOT of money on R&D to determine what works best for their product and they usually put that information on the label.

I somewhat agree with all above. After blasting I have used a scuff pad to clean up roughness. I then use a derusting agent/metal prep then I prime. After priming, sand dry then switch to wet. As stated above paint instructions and MSDS's will give directions as to their brand. Sometimes it goes well, other times I've redone. Preparation is the key. Good luck and have fun. Pics below.
Dan
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1512695955071274430lWhMwv

Now that I think about it, sandpaper on a block would be best. Here I am preaching perfection and suggesting otherwise. Bad Czechman :mad:

has anyone tried a "sanding sponge"? i picked up a couple today at autozone... havent used them yet.

Actually, if you have good straight metal and it's been sand blasted, all you need to do is apply a coat of Epoxy Sealer and then paint right on top of the Epoxy.

Frank

Every situation is different. Some pieces may need more detail than others. In all my travels, ive always primed bare metal.
Its just kinda a good habit and it gives you a little look at what the piece is gonna look like.
Cry once and be done with it,or cry twice and re-do it.

As an old painter once told me,"prime, prime, prime". T/C steve

[quote=55 1st suburban][color:#660000][b]OK, I'm pretty stupid when it comes to painting so here we go. I'm getting ready to begin restoring the vent windows on my '54 1 ton. My stupid paint question is...if I run the frames through my blast cabinet to get them ready for paint, do I need to prime the frames? As I understand primer is for adhesion? The cabinet leaves a semi rough texture I think would be enough. Or does the primer also have other protective properties?

NO QUESTIONS IS STUPID. the stupid thing is to never ask...We all been there asking and then asking again. At least I have thats how ya learn. Always prime using a quality product for your application. We had an automotive paint supply store that was extremely helpful with litature on different products and their application. Ask on brother, ask on!

Always prime bare metal.

I just finished restoring my vent windows. I blasted the parts, scrubbed then down with hot water, dried with compressed air and heat, primed with Duplicolor self-etching primer, went over the primer with a Scotch pad and painted with gloss black Rustolium enamel.

The parts are too small and it's totally impractical to block sand them. I'm very happy with the way mine turned out.