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I'm looking at replacing all my brake lines(hard lines) and was wondering if anybody out there has any tips. Also what size is the tubing and how many feet do I need. 1950 1/2 ton :confused:

My 50 took all 1/4" lines. It took a full roll(I think it was 25') and 1 other 5' piece.Also took 14 fittings.

how long did it take you?? was it a hard job?? thanx again.

If I remember right it took about a day. Nothing hard about it, just a little tedious. Pull an old line and measure it with a string. Add about a 1/2" to allow for the flares. Cut a piece of new line to length. Flare one end and slip on a fitting. Bend it with a tubing bender to match the old line. Then flare the other end. Don't forget to slip on the fitting on the end before you flare it.

I will second Ralphy on the "don't buy the cheapy flare kit", it is absolute garbage. The cheap jigs don't hold the tube secure enough and it slips through as you are attemting to make the flare. The cheapys use a wing nut to apply the pressure and the good ones use a heavy duty hex end.

As Ralphy says, good tools are a must. I picked up a Lisle brand flare tool at the parts store for about $40.00. Worked fine. Make sure the tubing end is square and burr free after you cut it. I used a file to clean up the end after cutting and also to put a slight taper on the tubing end before flaring. Also a drop of brake fluid on the die helps.

You will make a few mistakes, just take it in stride.

The 51's went to 3/16" lines. My 50 was all 1/4" and my 51 3/16".

What type of metal have we been talking about regarding the tubing. Steel or Stainless Steel. Is SS considerably more difficult to work with?

I got a set of stainless steel brake lines from Inline Tube for about $175. When I got them three years ago, the project was a '75 Chvy 3/4 ton 2wd, but times, fortune and prjects changed and I just hung them on a my '83 one-ton 4wd chassis. I had to rebend the ends that connect for the front hoses and was able to do it by hand except for one end that required a tool. I wrapped the tubing in six layers of masking tape and used a pair of pliers. The tape prevented tube damage. In my inexperienced opinion, the SS is easier to bend than the steel lines, because they didn't seen to go flat in the bends so easily.

Quinn

Consider installing a dual reservoir master cylinder while you're at it if you still have the old single.

I paid less than $100 for a dual master conversion kit, which included a bracket and linkage.

Since I was converting to disk brakes on the front at the same time, I was able to get an inexpensive rebuilt master that was less than $50, which seemed cheap, but a year later it still works fine.

I bought a 25' roll of tubing when I did mine, and I ended up buying a stick or two separately, but I think it was because I needed fittings I could only find locally that way.

My disks, master cylinder and rear brakes are all '73 Chevelle, so some of the specifics of my install might not apply to anyone elses.

When I converted to disks I discovered the original master had a 10 lb residual valve, and one I applied the brakes the disks would not release until I undid the brake line.... That's why I went dual master.

Thanks for all your help. By the way I'll be using steel tubing.

My tips, some have already been covered:
-Summit sells 25' rolls...3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, less than a buck per foot. The sell misc tubing nuts...about $7 per bag (there's about 12 nuts per bag). Definitely the cost effective way to go.
-I cut my tubing with a regular tubing cutter.
-I use a Rimac flaring tool. Needs to be clamped in my vice to keep the tube from sliding, works great when clamped properly.
-much harder to bend 3/8 tubing without kinking compared to 3/16.
-built a jig that works with my grinder to grind the tube end bevel necessary for the double flare.
-use old tubing for pattern or take careful measurements for new tubing, or make pattern using thin gauge welding wire.