The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tearing apart a big bolt - engine questions

I am tearing down my big bolt to have it sandblasted and have a few questions.
1. Does it make sense to keep all my nuts and bolts (I'm keeping them in cool whip containers and writing where they came from) "hot tanked"? I know someone who has a machine shop and I was just thinking how much cleaner and nicer parts are after "hot tanking" or should I buy a bucket of grade 8 bolts from the hardware store and use new?

2. I found my engine code ECM and can't find it listed in any of the engine id finder websites. What engine do I have? Truck was made Oct 47 in Baltimore. 1.5 ton 137 in wheelbase. Engine made in Tonawanda NY. That much I could find.

3. Is there a direct replacemant or can I get a rebuild for this or is it the 'babbitted bearings' that are very expensive to rebuild? Nothing has been butchered up on this truck so I don't want to cut mounts or firewall or core support.

Thanks for answers to all or some or it you have time detailed explainations of how and what and why.
Tim

Reconditioning the babbited rods is somewhat of a lost art, as most of the equipment to do the thinwall rod relining on the Chevy engines has been retired long ago. Thicker, "poured Babbit" methods don't work well on the Chevy rods. There is a machining process that bores the rod out for a special insert-type bearing. You end up with a "better-than-new" fix that's not obvious to the casual observer without an engine teardown. You'll still have low-pressure splash lubrication to the rods, however. When I was working at a machine shop in Nashville, Tennessee, I was the guy who bored/honed the rods for the inserts. The rest of the rebuild is pretty routine, not much different than a non-babbit engine.
Jerry

www.egge.com is the king of babbit bearings.

littlekings, I found it a GOOD practice to keep a box of sandwich bags close at hand. Even the little line clips and other "odd" bolts can be bagged and labeled with a felt tip pin. Even if you end up replacing a lot of them you will know what length, what size,what thread and so on. I have one box that I put the clips/bolts if I cannot screw them back into the frame or original piece. It does help in re-assembly. I found that most clips/bolts can be cleaned up and used again unless they are damaged or safety issue.
So bag it and label. I also use some of the little paper tags with strings on it and put notes on it and attach it to the pieces. Memories are short when you get my age.

I sure do agree with Chipmunk on the way he does it and how important it becomes to do it. I understand the memory issue all too well especially given the fact that these rebuilds can often takes several years to complete. Now if I could only figure a way to capture those darn Garage Gremlins who hide parts from me...

My only comment on the bolts is not to reuse engine bolts unless it becomes necessary as with head bolts which I still cannot find. Original accessory and general build bolts really make a restoration if that is your intention. I like the hot tank idea.

I also use the sandwich bag technique, but add to this technique by using a camcorder. I set the camcorder on a tripod, place the items to be bagged in front of the camcorder, and talk to the camcorder i.e. "item number 1, carburetor airhorn to throttle body screws, 12 x 24 x 3/4 slotted fillister head, original finish white zinc, 3 required, need to replace at least 2".

I then bag the parts, label the bag, and store in a box.

Later in the project, I watch the video, and create a database on the computer by group (i.e. engine, carb, transmission, etc.) and add the information on the computer. This gives me an index to the parts, and a shopping list to what I need to look for.

To quote Dave "especially given the fact that these rebuilds can often takes several years to complete". I am just finishinh a project started in 1983!!!

Jon.

Any ideas on which engine I have? I don't think it's the 235. If I do replace what is the easiest replacement?

Tim...if your engine is original to the truck in 1947 it would have been a 235 with the splash oiling system. Rebuild advice has already been offered and it's good advice. So if you decide to replace it go with a later (55-62) model 235 or 261. Both are direct bolt in replacements or can be with minor alteration.

I am curious as to how they used to renew the babbitt on these thin baabitt rods. I have seen photos of the process for the thicker babbitt ones but they are different.

The method I've heard about, but never actually seen being done, involved spinning the rod, and applying a thin layer of Babbit from a spray nozzle. I think the process was called "Centri-Cast". (Centrifugal casting?) Then the oil grooves were machined into the Babbit material after it solidified. Final finishing included boring the Babbit to whatever undersize was necessary, or cutting it to standard diameter. The rod and the cap has a shallow depression machined almost all the way across the bearing surface with a raised edge about 1/16" wide to act as a retainer for the soft metal. When the rod is machined for an insert bearing, the Babbit is melted out, that raised lip is machined away, and the rod is honed to the correct diameter to retain the insert correctly.
Jerry