The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Timing a 95 350?

Hey Guys,

I recently had to pull the distributor to replace the leaky intake manifold gaskets. Now that I've put it back together I can't get it to run. I'm pulling my hair out!

I rotated the engine so the crank pulley mark was on zero degrees. I put the distributor in, noted the position of the rotor and called that #1. I installed the plug wires. Cylinders are numbered 1,3,5,7 on the left bank (driver's side), front to rear...and 2,4,6,8 right bank, front to rear. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

I tried starting the engine, it's got fuel but it won't fire.

Is there some sort of voodoo that I have to do to get this computerized 350 to run?

Zeke

It could be 180 degrees out.You have to make sure # 1 cyl is on the top of the fire stroke.Pull # 1 plug out and crank/bump the starter until you hear/feel compression.Align the crank on TDC.Drop the dissy in aligning the rotor to #1 wire in the cap.Another way is to leave the dist in and change your wires in the cap starting with # 6 position. #6 becomes #1,then 8,4,3,6,5,7,2

did you unplug the wires to the dist. fit you time it with the computer linked to it she'll pull the back tha beast won't fire. . .

pull the advancing mechanisium off weather it's wired or vacuum. . . I had to do that to my 92 GTA to get it timed. .


Mike

I've just been in the garage fighting with it again.

I pulled the D.S. valve cover off to make sure I found TDC on #1.
I made sure the distributor was wired up at that point.
I checked all the fuses.

I turned on the key and listened for the fuel pump in the tank.

When I try starting it, it spins over and doesn't spark.
When I hold the gas pedal to the floor it fires a little bit but it doesn't start running. It can't even kick out the starter.

It's starting to seem like a fuel problem. Great.

Dang computerized engines. My 59 fired up no problem after 27 years of sleeping.

Anyone know if I can just hook up 12 Volts to a fuel injector to see if it will open up?

Z

I just found this thread on troubleshooting a no-start TBI.

FYI, there's two troubleshooting charts that look like they will help me out.

Thanks Guys,
Zeke

Well, I still have no joy on this.

I've verified that I've got good gas so the injectors are working.

I've verified that I've got good spark so the coil and ignition module are still good.

It must be the computer sending the spark at the wrong time.

I want to burn this truck to the ground right now.
:mad:

another 350 bites the dust and anothers gone and anothers gone another one bites the dust!. . .

giev it up them 350's just ain't worth the time fellas but it's just my opinion form after several engine failures. .

Mike. . .

The fuel needs to be 45 to 55 PSI at the rail ( or TBI.) If the distributor is off 180, you should get a good "pop". Recheck your wires, make sure you have spark at the plug. When you dead time it, it should start. You only need to disconnect the tan with black wire after you have warmed it up and need to set it factory. Make sure your fuses are good. That will be the "engine a" fuse and "engine b" fuse.


Sometimes it may seem you have good gas, but if the pump ain't producing within specs, the engine won't run. I've had injectors look like they're making fuel but really weren't.

Back to basics. It needs spark and fuel. If you are in the sticks and don't have diagnostic tools, you can cheat to see if it is a fuel problem or a spark problem. Spray some quick start ( ether) into the intake. If it kicks and runs for that brief moment, then you are chasing a fuel problem. If it cranks and nothing happens, you are chasing a spark problem. Since it worked well before you started work and you R and R'd the distributor, I would suspect the problem is there. It might just be that the jostling around killed the pickup and module. As a course of action, when I pull a distributor, I always update the pickup and module. Unless recently done. Take a deep breath, have a favorite drink, and start over. Take your time. Afterall, it is only an engine, not rocket science.


BTW, remember that when you reinstall a distributor, the rotor will turn a bit as you drop it. The shaft will have to be turned back a couple of teeth before dropping it so the rotor will end up in the original position.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for your help.

Good News. I got it running. It was a distributor issue. I had to spin it counter clockwise about 15 degrees in order to get it to run. I think that meant that it was too far advanced.

So I guess this means that I will keep it after all.

Zeke

Horrable. . . I wanted another person to hate 350's with

Mike :hammering: