The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop removing rear brake drums

I have a 1981 Camaro rear end that I put in my 55 Chevy truck. I am in the process of rebuilding the rear brakes and was wondering if some people on here could offer some tips on a few things.

The backing plates still have the 2 metal knock outs for adjusting the brakes. I have beat and banged on these to knock them out so i could adjust the shoes in, to get the hubs off, but the knock outs aren't coming out. Is there a better way to knock these out other than a chisel and hammer?
Whats the chances that a large crows foot puller would pull the hub off. I am not sure I am even knocking out the correct knock out piece. I have been banging on the ones that are towards the back of the backing plate. Thanks for any helpful tips.

on the wheel side of your drums check for oval shaped area to remove for brake adjustment. if somebody has been beating on the axle flange you need to take a grinder and clean up that area then apply some heat to the drum to expand it. if you are planning on rebuilding the brake system,shoes,spring hardware,cylinders... you can knock the head of the shoe holdown pin off with a chisel,they go through the backing plate. after that remove the brake line and unbolt the wheel cyl. that usually free's up unough stuff to see what is hung up. heat isusually the key. good luck

Those are probably not the knock out plugs. Look at the front of the brake drum and there should be a plug there. Sometimes the self adjuster wheel is a little tricky, try a small screwdriver or hook on the adjuster plate to move it away from the adjuster wheel and then turn the wheel with another small screwdriver or brake adjuster tool.
Fred

When I get a stubborn drum like that, and can't get to the adjuster, I'll use a few good solid raps on the sides of the drum with a brass hammer, not hard enough to cause any damage, just enough to loosen things up. Sometimes, they'll get rust on the pilot and behind the drum on the axle flange. The rust on the pilot can be cleaned down with some coarse sandpaper or scotch brite pad. Rapping the drum beetween the studs, and a dose of PB or Kroil, will loosen things up, too. If the shoes are still not letting up, usually due to a rust ridge on the drum, and you're planning to replace the shoes/hardware anyway, you can apply pressure to the drum with a prybar or 2 between the drum and backing plate. Use caution not to bnd the backing plate. Using 2 (one on each side) will ensure a straighter pull. This method has always worked well for me.

I just went and looked at the hubs and there does seem to a couple knock outs on the hubs. However, they look like they would be harder to knock out that the ones on the backing plates.
I took a picture of one of the hubs and also a picture of the backing plate I haven't gotten to with the hammer and chisel, so you can still see the knock outs. http://coopscorner.com/brakes/ It looks like to me the knock outs on the backing plate would be easier, but so far that isn;t proving to be very easy.
Right after I posted the first post I thought about trying to drill out a couple places in a knock out and then using the hammer. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Yea, drill them out.The one's on the drum are not knock out's. Usta be break adjuster holes.When knockout/ adjustment holes were located on back plate, the holes in the drum were no longer needed. What you are seeing on the drum is the old casting mold impression where the hole usta be.

I did drill out one of the knock outs enough to get a small screw driver in enough adjust the shoes in.

I was able to drill out one of the knock outs enough to get a small screw driver in enough to adjust the shoes in. After getting the hub off i could see why it was so stubborn. There are a couple grooves in the hub almost a 1/4" deep. I have no doubt that hub will need replacing. Thanks to everyone for the help.