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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 31 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 31 | Hi all-
I have the usual sloppy play in my brake and clutch pedals (causes them to make a nasty scraping noise against the side of the hole in the toeboard). I went ahead and purchased the pedal shaft bushing kit from (was) Chevy Duty, and was suprised to find that the outer diameter of the shorter bushing was a full .010 smaller than the bore in the pedal lever. The other was a light interference fit, but could be pushed in by hand. Could the tighter of the two be fixed with a little locktite red so the bushing will stay in place and can be machined? Any body have a similar problem? I'll probably just have to buy a second kit for the other big one. I intend on having the pedal shaft turned down just enough to remove the ridges, and it looks like a LOT of material will need to be honed from inside these thick replacement bushings. Is this reasonable to do with a hand-drill and small hone, or am I better off just having the machine shop do it? I bet if I do it myself the results won't be accurate and I'll have pedal scrape again in my new cab. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, -Warren
Last edited by squarenutz; 10/31/2007 1:51 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I guess you mean it,s loose in the housing the outer part of the bushing goes in. .010 seems pretty loose but you can [censored] the housing in many places with a sharp center punch & use Locktight shaft & brg. mount. It is blue. I think you could hone it with a wheel cyl. hone.
Sorry I didn,t realize takeing a punch & makeing a dent in material was an expletive.
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 10/31/2007 1:35 PM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 | what year truck? if you are cleaning up the pedal split the difference between the pedal and the new bushing' | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 49 | I replaced my shafts with some cold rolled heavy wall tubing 3/4" in dia. because the originals were very worn. I then bought some bronze bushings, 7/8"x 3/4"x 1 1/2" long, drilled out my pedals to 7/8", inserted the bushings with JB Weld, trimmed the ends of the bushing, then drilled and tapped a hole in each of them for a small threaded grease fitting. Assembled, greased, good to go.
Brian | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I have a set on my work bench from JimCarter and they are tight and will NOT go onto the shaft that holds the pedals. There is a note inside the pack that says to use a reamer to get the I.D. correct. That is to help folks who may have a really worn out shaft. They will go into the pedal with a little help its just they need the inside reamed a little to go onto the shaft. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Hey, Wrenchbender, are you sure you mean blue on that locktite? There's some that's a bearing and sleeve retainer, #640 as I recall, but it's green. That's what I used on mine.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Yes it is green. The old man is getting color blind too.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | The green Loctite (retaining compound)is good stuff.
638 for clearance up to .010" and 680 for up to .015"
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
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