The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 2BBL carburetor question

Chapter 5 in the on-going saga of the Carter 2bbl rebuild.

I imagine this happens with Hollies too. I have a Carter 2bbl carb on a 383 and an automatic transmission. Every time I'm at the light and idling, when the light turns green, if I don't want to burp to a stall and embarrass myself, I have to tap the gas a couple very short jabs, otherwise, if I just press the pedal as you would normally (no hot-rodding, no punching)the engine dies and I have to re-start it.

The engine and carb otherwise run great - lots of power on the highways and good get up and go from a slow roll.

This stalling does not have to be at the light. I can recreate it from under the hood with the car idling in Park: all I do is "slowly" pull on the throttle cable as if I were in the car just trying to move it from a stop light. What happens is the carb seems to "gasp." I can prevent a stall out if I very quickly "jimmy" the throttle cable. Almost as if I were trying to play the carb over some kind of "hump."

I am wondering: could the carb be so old that air is sneaking past to clearances around the worn(?) throttle shaft?

Anybody got any similar happenings and solutions?

Cheers from NC

PS: Y'know, my GMCs don't do this to me. I had a MOPAR cop car in the seventies and I should have known better than to adopt another one!

PS2: How come MOPARS don't start the first time? It ALWAYS takes two or three tries! What is that, anyway?

I had a 68 newport with the 2 bbl carter and the throttle shafts were worn bad and after a rebuild and bushings put in then base plate it ran fine and if you want it to start on the first try add electronic ignition. My 68 had about a 175000 miles on it when I got it and the carb rebuild helped but after I added the electronic ignition it started the first time and got 3 more miles to the gallon,I also had the distributor recurved before installing it. The mopar electronic systems are not hard to install,I just got all the needed parts and wiring from the junkyard and got a chiltons manual for the wiring diagrams to hook it up in the 68.

Jeff:

Did you have to buy a whole new REMAN carburetor with the new throttle bushings, or is there some business that will sell the bushings to me? I have been finding that getting the "hard" parts for carburetors is a tuffy so I usually buy "spare" carburetors to cannibalize (a skill I learned well in the Air Force fixin' C-141s). I got a feeling it's the throttle shaft-to-bushing clearances too.

Thank you for the electronic ignition answer. I've only recently adopted this car and I am still learning about her, so in my ignorance, I can't say if she's got factory electronic ignition (or was there such a thing in 66?).

Cheers from NASCAR country!

My dad installed the bushings in the throttle plate on my carb as he was retired and it gave him something to do,what he did was get the od of the shaft and went to a bearing company and found bushings that had the same id as the shaft and was small enough to work in the base plate and found a drill bit that was a fracion smaller than the bushing and set the base plate in the drill press and drilled the base plate. The reason he got a bushing a little bigger than the hole drilled is so the bushing would have to be slightly pressed in so they would stay in and not turn with the throttle shaft and it worked good and I never had any problems with the carb again. Your 66 will have a point ignition and I used the electronic system from a mid 70s big block and it made a big difference in starting.

Might not hurt to check your distributor advance assembly too.