The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop need help with ways to lower the rear into the weeds. ?!

i really could use a range of oprtios on how to get this rear way down. my lowering blocks didnt work out to well tonight as they were wider than the leafs and the u bolt would reach to the plate. i remove 4 leafs on each side tonight and am hoping it will lower it a little. what i would love to hear about is de arching with a blow torch, air bags for the rear ( what that entails)and any other way to get the rear down to the scrub line.

Pallet of shingles?

I would go to a local 4x4 truck accessory place with measurements of the blocks and U bolts that I need. They will have them.

I believe I read before you had 5 inch blocks? That is a lot. I am about to lower my rear 1 1/2 inches to more match the front mono leafs.

One trick I've heard of is to replace the rear shackle mounts with front shackle mounts from another donor. Should give a 3" to 4" drop, but with possibility of leaving very little room for the axle - better check it first.

Also, this will mess up the axle angle w.r.t. the driveshaft. You'll need some wedges to correct that.

Look at the shackle mount at the very front of the truck (mount #1, the front springs) - it actually sits inside the frame. I've seen folks move this to the rearmost shackle mount (mount #4, the rear springs), but it requires cutting the frame because it's too wide.

As for the middle mounts, the front spring mount (mount #2) is much shorter than the rear spring mount (mount #3). But where you need to mount it there are already lots of holes, so you might need re-enforcement or to fill the old holes.

I have spares of the shackle mounts from a '54 3/4 ton (same as 1/2 ton), and will send them for the cost of shipping if you decide to go this route. See ya,

-Boyo

On my '46 half ton, I figured out that the front springs were the same eye to eye length as the back ones but not arched near as much. Since I used a clip in the front, I put the front springs in the back along with 2" lowering blocks for a total of 6" of drop. 275/60-15's tuck right in under the fenders. I don't know if this works on an AD, but it's worth a look and it's really cheap. Have fun.

Where else but the 'Bolt are you gonna find info like this?! Thanks, JeffC. That one about switching front leaves to the rear should be posted in "Tech Tips!"

Wannabe

manomano how low do you wanago bro.
goin to drag bottom after a while,
i just splashed in here and thinkzzzzz loooow rider

ooyea man i seen just about every way there is to slamin a truck man all my life i'm one of them cave men you heard about i read just about every copy of hot rod/street rod/ hot vw and dune duggy mags mags ever printed :rolleyes:

can't remember half of what i read i'm still amazed about what folks have done since 1942 and blown away about the rides i've seen here on de stove bolt.

still like building cyber trucks cheaper to build trucks on de puter then in real life and like pictures dreamzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz [img]http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL50/487368/645026/7366909.jpg[/img]
[img]http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL50/487368/645026/7313321.jpg[/img] bullfoot in oreygun

Thanks for the compliment Wannabe. It's weird how these ideas come about. I was just lookin at the back half of my chassis thinkin', .....well I could buy a Heidt's Superride IRS for 3 or 4 grand, or I could get new monoleafs fer about 500 bucks, or I could...hey wait a minute...those front springs under the workbench are the same length,less drop and they're FREE. Bingo. Being a cheapskate will spawn alot of good ideas.

I'm surprised that no one's suggested that you get together with Solo. Between the two of you, your trucks will be sitting just right.

well here's what is happening. i put 2 inch drop spindles on the front along with the clip. it put the front down just right. i went and order some red powder coated steel rims and probably could have had the offset measured better to have the rims suck into the fenders a little more. when i turn hard left or right i hit the edge of the fender. so out comes some cash to the body guy who cuts the fenders and tries to reshape the whole deal to allow the wheels to turn . oh yeah i forgot to add the tires are tall 4" white walled radials. after all his work they still rub when cranked all way. so a bit frustrated there. then i lowered the back by taking out 4 leafs and throwing on 5 inch drop blocks. the stance looks great but currently there is only about 4 inches from frame to axle. thats without a tail gate,gas tank,bumper, and wood. the shop recommeded going with an air shock to raise it up a little. is that good? and is 4 leafs ok if i'm not hauling anything? it looks like i need to figure out a cheap way to raise the front about 1/2 to 1 inch. someone recommended some sort of doughnut shaped spacer to put under the spring or go with a 350 spring in the front. Any suggestions on that?do those cheap little J.C whitney nut things work? the drawing in the catalog sure shows a miracle! does my rear set up sound dangerous with a 327 with a few extra horses. when i get the cash i'll spring for the mono leafs but this is the best i can do for now. i appreciate the suggestions from above and will check out the deal with the front springs. I also need to add that i'm currently about 1/4 inch below the scrub line in back. A suggestion to anyone trying to lower a truck into the weeds. If you got the money go with the ifs.Its true the camaro clip is a bit to wide and the shortend A arms you'll need are 600 bucks.if you want a fender that appears to swallow up the thick white wall you cant pull it with the camaro clip. go withthe clip if you have a very complete shop and can do it yourself and dont want to drop oit much. Its just better to wait a few more months saving cash and get the ifs. by the time i get this thing right i'll be at almost the same price as do the ifs.