The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 42 216 cooling problems UPDATE

Alright, I hauled gravel for 4 hours this weekend. Something I forgot earlier, I am only hauling about 1/2 mile through the fields to our road, so only using 1st and 2nd and letting it idle while loading. I yanked the stat, I was wrong it was a 160 and i had drilled a burp hole. With it out the truck didn't heat up as bad but each load I still had to spray the botton of the rad down and add 1/2 gallon of water. The temp gauge never got above 190 doing this and upon the cool down would go down to 100 until I got to the river.
Once finished I tried to reflush the motor, water comes out clear as can be. The petcock shot out some brown and then went straight to clear. I left the top hose off and cranked the truck and it about pumped the rad dry before I could jump back out the truck, so I have flow. I think I am gonna make a fan shroud next.

ILW BCNU, sounds like you've got a handle on the problem. A fan shroud should help a lot. Mike

Have you checked the coolant temp with a thermometer? The fan shroud can be a big help, too. Also, do you have a pan in front of the radiator? Without a pan, air can go through your grill and down to the road. It can go up above the radiator if there isn't something forcing the air through. What do you have for a fan? I know some of the earlier pickups had a small fan, but am not sure about the bigger trucks of this vintage. Used to be you could go to the parts store and get a 5 blade fan for these, which was a big help.

Have you considered putting in a Flex-Fan? When pulling a heavy load, and the engine is really lugging, sometimes the stock fan just doesnt cut it. A flex-fan will pull more air at low speeds, and cools the coolent faster.I have one in mine, because it was used as a camping truck and had a camper on the back. A flex-fan pulls something like 50% more air. Something else to think about.

The stock pans are still on the top and botton of the grill shell. I am still running the stock fan which is 4 blade. I really think the problem is in the motor since dad said he never had problems with it when he used it. Even hauling I'm really not putting a strain on the truck, it is mostly flat land and I don't run it hard.
I'm thinking of removing the top rad hose and putting 100psi of air onto the petcock on the motor and back flush it from there.

Just a thought,,,have youset the point dwell and timing? You might check the valve adjustment and carb adjustment as well.

Check for the presence of a thermostat, sometimes the thermostat is removed or stuck open which means the coolant goes through the rad to fast to cool. You actually need something there to limit the flow even if the ambient temp is always above frezing.

Okay, ya'll have me stumped now. This is the truck that sat 20 yrs cause the advance springs were broken. All I have done is set base/intial timing. Someone else metioned an octane rod or something. All I can tell you is it starts right up, has plenty of power, doesn't knock, and doesn't run on when cut off. Is there any where on the net that explains what ya'll are saying to check? I'm a little to young to have experience here

the thermostat is or should be under the piece that the upper rad hose is attached to. This piece is bolted to the engine block usually with two bolts, has a gasket under it, and then the thermostat.....take it out, it should be closed, put it in a pot of cold water and bring the water to a boil...it should open, if it does then the problem is either the rad itself or timing, but if the engine was not knocking using todays gas when under load, then I do not think that is the problem.

Woops, I was meaning on the timing issues. I've already been through the stat part. It is running better without right now. Had a new 160 in it that was open when I pull it out hot and closed when I sprayed it with cold water.

I don't have to remind you but this is a 50+ year old engine that has survived. Be kind to it. We are your best bet on the internet.
1. Put the 160 degree therm back in with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze. Should take a little over 3 gals of the 50/50 mixture.
2. Put on a 5-7 pound rad cap no more.
3. What do you mean that "the advance springs were broken'? Do you mean the 2 small springs under the distributor breaker plate?
4. Does the distributor turn when you blip the throttle?
5. It may be as you say a small crack somewhere in the head.

The truck has had a hard life, and I am trying to use it, but am trying to be easy on it at the same time. Yes the 2 springs under the breaker plate, my father gave up back in the late 70's cause he thought it jumped timing, I got lucky and saw a piece loose.
I'm still running pure water till I figure out the problem, have animals running around.
The cap is loose, just there to keep dirt out to save a rad. Same problem tight or loose.
Yes the dist advances when revved.
I'm convinced a head gasket but just making sure. Dad says it should mess up quicker if blown though. I have probably ran it 15 hrs now and 20-30 some loads of gravel.

Is your timing advanced far enough? If you have the timing too far retarded it will run pretty hot.

Alright: nobody has asked: Did you give the system a good flush? I mean using the two part caustic, but first pull the block petcock and rod inside best you can, then replace with a ball valve and hose plumbing for garden hose. You will need to flush from here and drain out the top of the radiator. You can get one of those plastic setups for that. Get that solution in there, and bring it up to temperature. Let it work. You will find all kinds of leaks. Water pump packing will probably fail. But you will be getting rid of the crap that prevents heat transfer. Just my two cents. I did this with my '49 216, and the stuff that came out was disgusting....

My 54 two ton started heating one day. I flushed and refilled like always, was same. Drained and flushed again, always clear. Finally took rad out to shop. He has a water and pressure set-up to blow out crud. He put it on bottom hose connection and filled, pressurized and blew out all kinds of reddish rusty crud. Did once more. Tested for leaks, none, gave back, I installed, was good after that. By the way, as I removed from truck, the lower rad hose was full of rusty crud, even though the drain just let out clean anti-freeze. Pretty odd deal!

If you feel and inspect the gunk, you find that it actually repells water like a greasy substance would.
Build-up is like an organism, that keeps growing when we look the other way.
It's only useful purpose is to remind us that it wants to be cleaned and flushed out regularly.

Nature by itself also takes care of itself, but radiators and engines are man-made and require maintenance and care.
They sure made incredible machines back then, but I don't think anything can ever be made and last without keeping it in good shape.
Just like the human machine..

If it was retarded I wouldn't have any power would I? It pulls like a champ.
No caustic solution, and you just scared me since it is a new wp.
The rad was replaced w/ what looked to be NOS.
I haven't had a chance to rig up a flush adapter to the petcock yet, that is next.

Ok back on topic. If you do not see bubbles when you take off the radiator cap most likely your head gasget is ok. Distributor: you asked where to get the mechanical advance springs under the breaker plate. Go to any speed shop or auto parts store and get the Chevy V8 springs, I think Mr. Gasget has them there will be 4-5 different colors of springs all different strenghs. Put in the heavest, put it back together . You do not have to remove the dist from the engine to do this job. Then Re-set the points if used to .019- slight drag. Then reset timing. Adjust the carb, refill with 50/50 antifreeze, 5-7 lb cap and you are done. We think you have a 0 pressure cap now, with a higher pressure cap the boiling point of the liquid that keeps your truck running cool will be higher - thats a good thing. What wt oil are you using?
t

Springs are fine then just making sure.
I have tried 0 and 7lbs, both do same thing. The rad is made funny so it is hard to see water flow. But no bubbles. the top cast iron piece on the rad seems to force the water down thru the tubes, you can't see it flow like a new rad. I even connected a water hose to it to see.
Using ND30wt oil.

I had heating problems with my 40 216 car motor, at slow speeds. I found a nylon fan blade that fit a Datsun, with about 7 blades on it. The center hole was big enough to fit over the Chev water pump. It made a world of difference in slow speed temperature. Sorry I don't remember what model it came from. The 4 blade fans just don't pull enough air, even though they were all you had back when.

Other thing I failed to suggest: have radiator pressure and flow tested. It may need a real pro boilout and rod out. It's like plaque buildup. Too much and no flow=no cooling. I'm still more concerned about the same condition in your engine block. That's why I suggested the two part caustic. Hell throw an old core water pump on there just for the flush if you are concerned. Actually the ones that fail the flush are old worn out ones where the packing was wore out and there was just gunk plugging the seal. Gas tanks and radiators will make or break you. Verify these are good before poking around elsewhere.