The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What holds distributor in?

When reinstalling the distributor in my 1954 235, it seems that the only thing that keeps the shaft down in the oil pump is being careful to get it down in the pump slot, then that little metal clamp around the shaft, with the 1/4 inch clamp screw. Seems possible could get the rotor shaft gear engaged,so engine would run, but not the oil pump. Or could it come loose? Am I missing a more positive hold-down? Also, what's an easy way to line up the pump slot? What a great site, thanks to all you experts!

I'm not real sure what you are asking, but I'll take a stab at it. The hold down clamp on the distributor would be up off the block if the tang is not in the oil pump gear. I assume you are putting the distributor in with #1 cylinder a top of compression stroke and distributor turned for #1 to fire. To bring oil pump gear in alingment you can use a long flat blade screw driver to turn it to bring everything into alingment.

Thanks, "lightnin". Problem is, there is no set place that the clamp has to fit; can just slide it up to the distributor, or could also tighten it up anywhere on the turned part of the shaft below the distributor. Would seem better if was a shoulder, or groove, so clamp had to be a certain location vertically, and thefore the pump tang seated properly. As you know, the clamp then fits to the bracket that is held down to the block by the bolt thru the "octane" timing adjusting slot. Just seems like shaft could work its way up and out of the pump. On aligning the pump slot, I guess I'll just have to kepp turning it a little with my long screwdriver until it hits when it twists down past the cam gear. Thanks again, if any more ideas.

When ever you tighten the screw in the clamp, the it should keep the distributor from coming out.

46 Panel,

Hint: the distributor shaft will turn about 1/8 turn or so as you install it, so "set" your oil-pump slot about 1/8 turn "behind" the shaft position, so that when the distributor is "bottomed out", everything should line-up.
[Make sure that the engine is at TDC (valves too!) for #1 cyl (ball & pointer lined-up), and the distributor rotor pointed at the "5 o'clock" distributor cap tower, for #1 spark plug.]

Unless you've thoroughly cleaned the distributor housing, there's usually some sort of "line" on the housing neck where the black paint(or rust) stops, indicating the approx. position of the clamp.

Once you get everything "lined-up" and seated, the clamp and octane selector hold everything in place real good. Chevy used that arrangement from 1932 (?) till 1962.
(final hint: leave that clamp screw loose until the distributor is "home", then take your long screwdriver, going behind the breather pipe, and tighten it up, making sure that the octane selector is centered on "0".)

Good luck!

As I recall, the collar you are describing tightens around the distributor shaft housing to keep it in time once properly adjusted. There should also be a flat plate which takes a 1/4 x 20 bolt into a tapped hole in the block. This assembly also has the vacume advance mechanism. That's the way it's set up on my 216 and I beleive it was on a 49 235 I had. I know it was also on my 52 Chevy coupe. On the 216, this plate has degree markings. You can move the timing a bit either way by loostening the hold down bolt and twisting the distributor. This was provided to adjust for octane variations.