The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rear end disassembly (photos added)

Ok
What am I missing?
I pulled out one side of the axle,
took the blt off of the other side and tried to pull it out the same way and no luck.
Removed the 10 bolts because I thought maybe that would have to lift out first.
Still no luck. Why wont it come apart?
I just want to clean it up and replace seals and lube. Am I causing any damage here?

There has to be a simple answer but this is all new to me.

Thanks

what year/model are we talking about?

So far I am unable to ID. I am taking it out of my '49 1/2T. I think it is a slightly newer truck rearend with an open Driveline.

Thanks,
Sean

Its been awhile, but I believe at the carrier end of the axle there is a "c" type clip that needs to be removed before the axle can be pulled out.

OK , so you have one axle out . That means you took the retaining 'C' washer out. You took out the other "bit" , so that was the other 'C' washer ,, right? ,, now the axle won't pull out ......... So maybe the axle outer bearing has a big groove worn in the axle and is catching in it ,, try using a shock puller , the type that bolts to the wheel studs , there is nothing else holding the axle in .
Let us know how you get on.
edit: did you pull the axle side gears out ? maybe there is a big burr on the splines holding things up.

I dont remember seeing any C clips.
I will go home and take a look and then maybe post some pics if that does not work.

Pics are good ,, more detail of what you have done will help ,, is the diff 5 stud or 6 stud ?. Does it have a removeable back plate ?
The 10 bolts retaining the diff head into the axle casing do not need to be undone to remove an axle . Do them back up.

It is possible that the "c" clip on the one axle fell off by itself (it shouldn't though). If you examine the carrier end on the removed axle you should see a groove where the clip rides. Assuming that is the issue, gently drive the remaining axle back in a little. That should expose the carrier end and you can see if a clip is there.

I do not see a C clip. What Am I missing here.
I have taken some photos hopefully these help.
On the other side all I had to do was remove 4 nuts. Not the case on the other side.

Here are the photos under the album titles Rear end.

http://community.webshots.com/user/ifrizlfri

I think the C clips would be inside the pumpkin. I can't see how your rear cover comes off though, maybe the front?

In2Deep,

Thats a '55 -'64 passenger rear end. There are no C clips on this one. The bearings will bind (or rust) in the end of the housing though. You need a slide-hammer with an axle adapter on it and the axle will pull out (well maybe not RIGHT out but it will come out.)

Slide Hammer including axle adapter.

Sounds good!
now i just have to find the slide hammer adapter.

Good to see the pics ,, now we know what you are working on.
This diff has the axles held in by the 4 small nuts that you have already undone.
Now you need an axle puller .
This can be any sort of slide hammer (also called a shock puller) .
The axle that just slid out easy was really a bit loose in the housing.
This diff has no 'C' washers to retain the axles .The diff head comes out the front of the axle casing , once the axles are removed .
Are you going to replace those thin brake linings too ?

HA ! caught typing , while you were posting OlBlue

You too eh?. In2Deep replied before I could get the link with the picture up.

To bad there's nobody willing to answer questions on this site!

You guys Rule.
After a smashed finger a small bottle of WD-40 many angled hammer blows and a pry bar it is out!
No damage done.

I am very happy thanks.

There is one other way to remove the axle without a slide hammer. I have used it many times and have always had success.
With all the bolts removed and are ready to remove the axle, get a 1/2" log chain about 15 or 20 ft. long, fasten one end of the chain to one of the wheel bolts, pull the chain out straight to the side, give it about 1 or 2 ft. slack, now snap the chain by raising the end you are holding up and coming down quickly. This will create very hard jerk in the axle. I have actually slid the vehicle side ways using this method so be sure to have vehicle mounted solid. I like to have the other sides wheel on the vehicle and sitting on the floor.
I realize you have the axle out but this is for other people who are having this kind of problems. By the way while you have the axles out, now is a good time to replace the seals holding the diff. lube from coming out and ruining the brake shoes.

Back when I ran '57 Chevy cars, I used to keep an old junk wheel around for this. I bolted the wheel to the axle flange then wanged on the back side of the wheel with a sledge to pull the axle out. Thankfully I only had to do it a couple of times(shot rear axle bearings).

Thank you for the replies and now one more question for reassembly.

The guy at NAPA basically laughed at me for wanting to buy backing plate gaskets
"Them dun't do nuthin ya needs the O ring"

What O Ring?

I did not see an O ring

Where would one go?

Is he right?

Help please

Prolly talking about the axle bearing seals. The diff lube travels up the axle tubes and lubes the outer bearings on these models. Seals keep lube from dripping into brake drums. For flange gaskets: depending on model, either reuse the old flange gaskets, cut new ones out of gasket material, or use silicon in place of gaskets.

While you have axles out, check them for signs of twisting or damage from seized bearings. No use rebuilding the R/E if the axles are gonna twist apart.

Are there different axles for different years or do they all use the same part number? Would for instance 52 axles be the same as 54's?

Axles :
51 -54 pass 53 -55 corv. left 28 1/2". #3694755
Right 29 1/2" #3694756
51 - 56 1/2 ton left 29 5/8" #3694769
Right 30 5/8" #3694770
1/2 ton axles are 17 spline.

New Zealand?
How can you know so much about them chevy trucks anyhow?