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#26679 06/03/2003 1:41 AM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | Hi, My 235 still has the vacuum leak and in an effort to swap out the carb I'm trying to find out what year the engine is. The serial no. to the rear of the distributor says: FEA 42033. The Inliners Int'l page doesn't list this one. Should I be looking for another number?
Thanks for any guidance.
Dave '47 One ton
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
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#26680 06/04/2003 9:41 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Look at the casting number just below the fuel-pump and back a little. Should be raised letters and numbers.
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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#26681 06/04/2003 1:48 PM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Boulderado,
Is it possible the code is FBA? That is the code (engine serial number) for a 1948 3100 series Chevrolet 216.5 engine.
F = 1948 model year B = 3 or 4 speed transmission A = built at the Flint MI plant
42033 = 41033 engine build (I think).
My book does not show any other year with the engine ID having first letters of FXX.
My book does not have engine IDs for early (pre-54) 235 truck engines that were optional in trucks larger than 1 ton. Nor does it have codes for automobile engines.
Look for the casting number, as suggested by Mechainiac.
Tim | | |
#26682 06/04/2003 2:57 PM | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 346 | Boulderado,
I found the FEA prefix in the '59 Parts and Accessories book: 1948 235ci
'38 Chevy 1-1/2 ton '49 Chevy 1/2 ton '54 Chevy 6400 2 ton '55.2 GMC 3/4 ton '56 GMC 1-ton
No Room Left in Shop
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#26683 06/04/2003 10:34 PM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | Thanks you guys! I'll double check the serial no. when I get home. The farmer I bought it from said it originally had a 216 but was repowered with a 235 out of a 1.5 ton. I guess I was hoping that 235 would be a little newer. Thanks for the help.
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
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#26684 06/05/2003 3:08 AM | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 16 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 16 | I agree with OlBlue. It's a 1948 235ci. tclederman almost had the FEA right. The E is for the type of engine, a 235ci used in the 6000 series trucks (1 1/2 Ton). I believe 42033 refers to the sequence number applied to each engine at the respective plant it was manufactured, in this case at Flint, MI. Though 42033 is also sometype of code. You should also have a casting block number on the engine. Check to see if the block number is 3835309. Check at the right front part of the engine, just in front of and below the fuel pump, GM letters may be just above the number. It will be really difficult to see. Good luck. | | |
#26685 06/08/2003 1:25 AM | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 48 | You're right, the casting no. is 385309. Although my first clue for the engine year was the "GM(48)" just above the number. I guess you just gotta know where to look.
Okay, now that I know the engine year, what carb do I put on it? It's got a leaky Carter W-1 on there now. Do I get a rebuilt one, go with a Carter Y-F, or something more sexy? I am not so much interested in performance (it's got a 5.14 rear end), but it's got to be simple -- so we'll get along.
Any help appreciated.
Dave
Don't read the directions, that'd be too easy.
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#26686 06/08/2003 2:34 AM | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | Not much simpler than a Rochester 1-barrel carb. I had a truck that was constantly getting plugged at the float needle-valve with blue silicone. I must have had the top of the carb off 100 times before I found the source of the blue silicone, which was from the P.O. who used blue stuff on the seding unit. the blue silicone breaks down in fuel so I was getting a constant supply from the stuff that was squeezed out inside the tank. - I got so good with removing the top of the carb I could do it in the dark along side the road in less than 20 minutes 
There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us. - - Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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