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I have or will have a brand new 49 chevy which I bought off of here....it has the original 216-4spd. I would like to keep this vehicle as original as possible but would like to drive it every day....I was thinking of just a newer inline chevy 6 cyl and redo springs front and back and add torsion bar to front and maybe add tube shocks that can be removed if I sell and old engine replaced after it is rebuilt......will this allow 70mph on current highways and reasonable handling? Appreciate any help here, my first 49

Hey,

I drive my '66 with totally stock running gear 65 mph on the highway EVERY time I get on the expressway. There are times where I keep it on 70. The drivetrain is most comfortable at 60.

This is not a muscle truck (250 inline-6, 3 speed column shift, 3.73 rear end and 235-70R15). I can keep this speed (and these rpms) because the 250 can spin at 3k all day with no problems. This is what I love about the newer classics.

To get your truck up to these speeds, and even more importantly to safely stop it from those speeds, you will have to do extensive upgrades. More than what you have listed here. To get a steady 70 mph cruising speed, you'll need to upgrade your gearing (either your rear end, your tranny or both). Taller tires will help too. A stock built 49 Chevy is not safe traveling 70. Plan on an IFS swap, with front disk brakes. Won't be much more trouble than the upgrades you listed, I'm sure. And your stopping ability and handling will increase tenfold.

Don't know how much later of a six you're thinking of. A later 261 would probably be the easiest power upgrade. If you go with the 7 bolt design (250/292), then you'll have to work out something for the motor mounts and change to an open driveline (and rear end). A 350 swap would probably be cheaper and yield much more power. Hope this helps.

-ftyler

I am torn between the 350 route and the stock drive train, the truck, should I sell it, would be worth more all original than rodded but I am not adverse to hopping it up. If I went the 350 route, I have a free donour vehicle, a 74 3/4 ton van with fronts discs etc and I would probably try to locate a donor 49 frame to install the 350/350/rearend onto and then just keep the old drive train incase....????

With the 49's stock gearing, the motor won't like to run more than 55 (assuming it's a car or 1/2 ton PU). Upgrading the rear end gear and keeping everything else stock (but do add that swaybar) will work just fine and keep the value of the truck, as well as be easy. You can add disc brakes if you want but the drums work fine as long as you keep them well maintained- adjust them every time you change the oil and change the fluid every 6 months, and rebuild the wheel and master cylinder every 3-5 years. Make sure the emergency brake works.
The stock 216 babbit pounder will last a good long time as long as you don't abuse it. Don't overrev it (3200 rpm is tops), change the oil every 1000 miles, use good oil, keep it tuned up, and it will last a long time and be reliable. You can limp around for years with a knocking bearing on one because they are so thick. If your stock engine is in bad shape a later ('54-'62) 235 or 261 will bolt right in- you don't have to change motor mounts (you may have to drill a hole or two on the engine itself). The later engines have full pressure lube and better head flow for more power. There are speed parts for the old engines.
I am swapping a '57 block into my truck along with a 3.55 rear end (I have a 4 speed too) and I expect 70 to be perfectly reasonable. I still have the 216 in it right now, and other than heavy wear on the bearings (oil pressure is getting low) runs great and gets up to 55 just fine. It runs silky smooth and drives really nice, just a bit slow.
You will want to check the condition of the king pins and tie rod ends because most people don't lube them enough and they get loose. They hold up well if you lube them religiously though.

I can't agree that you need a IFS to drive on the highway. I have 40 K on my 50 with a straight axle and have a 100 mile round trip commute. I have changed the tranny to a t-5, sway bar, gas shocks, radial tires and kevlar composite brake shoes. I drive 70 to 75. I try to keep the limitations of the truck in mind and avoid 75 in the left lane one car lenght away, like most people drive here in CT. There is no getting around the high center of gravity and narow axle width of these trucks but I'm not about to lower mine or put in a car suspension. Thats my personal preference, I want to still feel like I'm driving an old truck. Discs are better but the Kevlar shoes I use aren't bad, I notice no fade. I keep in mind I may not be able to stop like a four wheel anti-lock disc setup. Here if you leave 10 feet of room to the car in front someone will squeeze in a 9 foot car and then hit the brakes. I often try to find a light trailer truck and follow behind, seldom will anyone pull in front. I also look for two lane state highways when I can.

When I couldn't decide if I wanted to rod my truck I put in a Borg Warner OD and drove the 216 for a while to get a feel for it.

in other words, dude -> go for the IFS.

Search previous posts on the subject and ask others who have already installed it what do they think.

I'd hate for you to put lots of time and $$$ in an upgrade, only to find out later that you could've had more suspension than you'll ever need for a few hundred dollars more.

I try to build ahead of what my needs are. Kind of the whole purpose of anti-lock brakes and airbags. Anti-locks are rarely actually activated while driving (unless one drives foolishly ALL the time) and airbags are only used once (if ever). But their purposes are well served when you need them.

I encourage you to build ahead of your needs. I'm sure there are many novice inline builders who'll spend big $$$ on their engine only to be disappointed when a small block built with less than half the $$$ blows them away on the streets. Think of what you really want in terms of performance, then build a little beyond. You'll never regret it.

-ftyler

FT, Thanks for summing up my post for me. I feel the opposite you do. After driving my six and deciding to stay with it and a straight axle, I'm very glad I did.

I realize you may want something different out of your truck than I. Doesn't make you wrong, nor I. I doubt discs are 10 times better than my brakes and I see nothing inherently wrong with a straight axle. Most big trucks use them, we are talking about trucks, right?

Grant, you mentioned the T-5 transmission and that you have the orginal front axle....what are you running in the rear?? The Borg/Warner OD what did that come out of or is it an aftermarket transmission. I think in the effort to get the truck on the road as soon as possible and to drive it a little to get the feel of it and it's center of gravity, that I will stick with the inline six either 216 if I can find someone to rebuild it or newer one. I actually like the solid front axle and drove a modern truck with same so not concerned about the front axle, only braking (I Like the discs) I live in Toronto Ontario Canada and drive on the infamous 401 ...six lanes of hell...thanks for all the suggestions guys I am compiling all this info and then have to ask my friend how many donour vehicles he is willing to have on his property till I am done....*smile*

it's cool Grant. Here's how it went.

I recommended IFS (didn't say it was necessary, just a suggestion).

You said it wasn't necessary and that he'd be safe, under certain conditions.

Based on the conditions you gave of "safe" freeway driving by upgrading stock, I re-recommended IFS so that 1tuftruck didn't have to worry about keeping certain distances, etc. Plus it'll give him a little room for driver error, other idiot drivers who do unpredictable things, etc. You get the pic.

It's 1tuftruck's choice; and I can't see what harm there is in suggesting that his project be well thought out before he begins. :confused: :confused:

You need to take idiot drivers and unforseen circumstances no matter what kind of brake system you have. The brake parts on my 54 are new and it stops on a dime and doesn't take a lotta pressure to operate. If I wanted to be silly I could say discs don't work good in the rain and drums do.

IFS is even sillier. They make plenty of trucks today that still have the straight axle. Putting in car suspensions will not make it handle any better unless it is done very well. I certainly would never do want to do it to anything bigger like 1 ton and up. New 1 ton trucks, IFS or straight axle?

1tuf, I run a t-5 now but my first OD was the Borg Warner three speed OD out of 55 to 60 something? chevy car or truck. I put in a 55 to 62 meatball out of a half ton in my torque tube type housing. Had to weld in new spring perches or weld the old ones solid. This took a weekend and the results were great for cruising.

I didn't realize your 216 needed work, I thought you could just drive it to get the feel of it. It cost big bucks to rebuild inlines and I sugest you are sure that's what you want before you drop that kind of money. Even if you go inline I prefer the later 235 or 261, both pretty much bolt in.

You can also put disc brakes on a straight axle if you decide to go that way. Adco sway bar was a great improvement. My truck felt pretty top heavy before I put one in. This could add up to some change so it's best decide if you want IFS or stock before you spend (lotsa) money.

You guys may be right about the IFS. I didn't consider the weight of the vehicle. I'm in 1/2 ton mode :rolleyes:

-ftyler