The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop SMOKE!

hi my name is jose and i own a 1951 chevy truck with a straight six 216 in it i have just put new valve seals in it and it smokes the same as it did before when the engine first starts it runs great and does not smoke but after about 5-10 min it satrts to smoke white-blue i did a compression test and i got 120 all the way downi have rebuilt thje carb and added a new fuel pump other than that nothing major the spark plugs are blackened and i think its carbon deposits but i dont know for sure the engine running great even when it smokes no missing at all but the smoke is very thick and noticeable if you have any suggestions please help thank you

You said the smoke was "white-blue"? Blue smoke is usually oil. If your plugs are black, then I would start with adjusting the carb. Black plugs means it's running rich. Check your timing while you're at it. How old is the engine (last rebuild)? Also, you said it doesn't smoke when you start it up, but after 5-10 minutes it starts to smoke? Does it stop smoking any time after that? John.

yes the engine still smokes after. it starts and never stops even after 80+ min. i dont know to much about the truck i got it 3 months ago from a guy who lived out on a farm he said it was sitting for about 8-10 years. it wasnt running when i got it. what would the right adjustment on the air/gas adjustment screw? in the process of doing the valve seals i loosened hte rocker arm adjustment screws and now when i turned the truck over it runs very rough as if it wants to turn off but doesnt it wasnt not happening before AT ALL how would i go about adjusting the rocker arm to valve stem screws is it going to be a major deal??????? please help thank you

I'd say you need to adjust the valve clearances after a repair like that. There have been other posts on this forum with good advise as the best way(s) to adjust the valves. Still, that shouldn't make it smoke. Have you ran the motor enough to notice the oil level going down? Is it losing oil? Is it noisy? Clattering or knocking? The white smoke could be water vapor. Is the radiator staying full? After an 8-10 year sleep the rings might not be seated good and you could be getting blow-by even though compression is good. Is the oil pressure good? Old motor may just need to be run for awhile....Good luck.

Smoke on deceleration is valve guides , continuous smoke is rings .
The shop manual has a clear set of instructions on setting valve lash .

the oil level has not gone down to where i can notice it at a day to day basis, htere is no knocking maybe some clattering from the rockers, and the radiator is staying full aswell my oil pressure is at about 5 at idle and when i hit the gas it goes up. it is not water vapor because it sticks around for a good long while and when i hit the gas it really lets it out. hwen in idle ive been noticing that instead of a steady flow of smokes it comes in "bursts" every now and then. What do you think?

What do your spark plugs look like? Did you adjust the valves? It's not that hard to do.

my spark plugs are or were black the last time i took them out and no i have not adjusted the valves yet i do not really know how any suggestions

???

!!!

This is the list of instructions that Ken was linking you to oldcar;

I have a 1959 Apache 3600 with a 235 6 cylinder, with solid lifters. I was wondering how to adjust the valves. Submitted by Kevin Clements
Here are three answers:
#1 Hydraulic Lifters -- "The adjustment of the 235's valves is real fun. You need to run the engine until it comes up to operating temperature and add about 10 minutes. (About 30 Min Total). With the valve cover off and the engine running, set the valves in any order you like. I like to start at the back and work forward. You may have to go through the valves as many as 3 times before you get what you want. You need a tappet wrench to do this job, you cannot do it with a hand wrench and screw driver. This job takes a good hour to do right."
Ted J. Welch
Editor: The Classic Truck Shop

#2 Solid Lifters -- "You never should attempt to adjust solid lifters with the truck running! This will only result in bent pushrods if one is inexperienced. The proper technique is listed in the shop manual, Warm the engine to 185 degree OIL temperature. Bring each valve to top, using a feeler gauge, wrench and screw driver, set the required gap as shown in the shop manual. The rocker castings can have as much as .005 difference between hot and cold. Using this technique you should have perfectly adjusted valves first time! Thanks!"
Jim Beidatsch
past president, Northern California Chevy/GMC Truck Club
local Chapter Coordinator, Pickups and Panels 'n Print Magazine
Norcal Truck Club

#3 General (Engine NOT running) -- "I have a trick I use every day at work to set valves on inline 6 cyl. motors. Chevrolet and John Deere firing orders are the same: 153642. Set the motor to fire on #1. Set the lash on 1E, 1I, 2I, 3E, 4I and 5E. Then rotate crankshaft one revolution. #6 should be in firing position. Set lash on #6E, 6I, 5I, 4E, 3I, 2E. Your valves are all set, and it only took about 5 or 10 minutes. Remember exhaust valves are on the ends of the head, and they look different than intake valves, so it is easy to identify the valves for cyls. 2,3,4,5. I hope this will help someone. Again, thank you!"
Carl Riemann

thanks for all the info it helps out alot how can i tell if i have hydraulic or solid lifters?

216's never had hydraulic lifters, they were a 1954 addition to the new 235.