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#25941 01/16/2004 5:03 AM
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I have patrick's 3:55. I'm not up to installing it. Can most any good auto shop install it ? Trucks all done except for this. Thanks, Jim

#25942 01/16/2004 5:36 AM
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I doubt it. You need a well established shop with some older guys that remember these trucks. Most shops won't even touch it.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#25943 01/16/2004 6:22 AM
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Tony, are you saying, younger guys cannot work on these trucks! Give us a break here! Compared to the modern day trucks... peice of cake!

#25944 01/16/2004 6:41 AM
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Ape, there is a nice guy here that has just done what you want to do, his handle is... CMAYNA, he has given described descriptions of what he did with pics. Hang in there, he will probably get in touch.

#25945 01/16/2004 2:52 PM
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If you check around any shop that can do rearends will be able to handle your job. Be prepared its not cheap .You would have been better off swapping rears . I have seen that gear set installed for about 300.dollars and also know of one that cost 900 dollars. If you cant do it yourself it gets pricey and really not worth it . Sounds like you allready have the gears so you need to find a shop. Ask around and find a good 4X4 shop they do that stuff all day long .

#25946 01/16/2004 3:37 PM
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I bet if you called 10 shops, how many would be willing to do it? And would you feel comfortable with someone that has never done it before except for on a much newer vehicle? Maybe if you found a small shop and he is willing to work with the instructions that come with it, get the special tools etc.

Maybe shops around here are different. I remember getting quotes for my 87 Fjord truck's limited slip rebuild and had to go out of town just to find a small shop with a decent price.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
#25947 01/16/2004 4:13 PM
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New rear end needed? Sounds like a plastic surgeon is needed instead. Here we're talking about putting the gears in a '40 rear end. That's 10+ years older than what I'm working on. What has changed between the 40's and 50's???

I'd do some research in finding the differences first. Once they are known to all then more fellow bolters can make give their two cents worth.

If very similar to the early 50's then many can chime in. For me, I wish I knew what I know now, before I started the project. The gear installation portion of my truck is done. This weekend I'm jacking up the truck.

Ape, hopefully others with experience in this field on trucks of your age will contribute quickly. Otherwise we'll all jump in with you to get it done. From whom did you get the gears from? Did you get instructions for your year of truck?

Everyone, Does a '40 have a torque tube, bell housing, rear tranny cross member for support, blah, blah?

Happy friday to all.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#25948 01/16/2004 5:03 PM
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ape:

I have done my 46. It isn't that hard. It's a lot of work, but not that difficult to change out those gears yourself. When I started my truck I knew nothing about turnning a wrench except maybe a basic tune-up. Take your time read the instructions that Patrick sent you, and the shop manual for your truck.

You can do this. There are a lot of helpfull guys here ready to answer any questions you have. Give it a try, you'll be glad you did.

Good Luck
George

#25949 01/16/2004 5:25 PM
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46forme's last sentence says it all. Lot's of sweat but very rewarding.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#25950 01/16/2004 6:16 PM
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When I did mine, I had no instructions, and no help. The only thing I couldn't do myself is set the backlash and do the welding. I had to find someone to do that. I was lucky to find a friend who knew how to set the backlash.
I installed a Powerglide rear end in mine. I removed it from a 54 car, totally disassembled it, chemically stripped everything, cut the torque tube and the propeller shaft to length, welded it back together and reassembled it.
I got it back together and installed and it has run like a top ever since. I think it was worth it!


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
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#25951 01/16/2004 7:30 PM
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1940 to 54 are exactly the same in design.


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#25952 01/17/2004 6:09 AM
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Thanks to all ! I'm gonna read Patrick's instructions,as recommended here. I put a 261 in my 40',rather than a 350, just because it reguired no major modification to the truck,yet is a more modern(usable)engine.I kept the orig 216 which runs great. I rejected putting a different rearend in for the same reason.I want to be able to return to original condition by turning a wrench. I love OLD trucks! I may try doing the 3:55 myself, if for no other reason than I could use this website more,which I really enjoy. Thanks again. jim

#25953 01/17/2004 4:05 PM
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Pre '68 Dave,
For sure not identical for '49 and earlier, the front bushing are doweled into place. 50-52 are press fit without dowels. Maybe this is the only difference.

Ape,
As NIKE says "go for it".......


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
#25954 01/18/2004 6:37 AM
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cmayna, your right on the bushings. I was mainly talking about the differential parts. There are other sutble differences like the length of the torque tube and propeller shaft. You Were talking about helping Ape with the setup procedure and that will be the same.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
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