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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | Howdy Burbs,  It's -40 this morning! Working on the Burb last night. As you remember I already seperated the body from the frame and took the frame out from under it so that is not in the way. Got all of the floor bolts and screws out. There are two trim strips, 1 across the front and 1 across the back, I removed then also. Looks like all of the other bolts are the cross brace and stiffener pieces under the plywood. I have not tried yet but it looks like the floor is over a front and back lip (under where the trim strips were). Looks like I'll remove the floor tail piece that goes across the back (at base of tailgate) with the lip then maybe the whole thing will come out the back way ? ? Hmmm... I'll keep you posted and take a few pics. Buddy in AK | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | Yeah - when telling a friend what I have done I realized the top of the plywood is flush with the top of the metal box that the driver seat goes on. I plan to remove that anyway, so after I do that the floor should slide forward enough to drop out the bottom  I'll try that! Buddy Just went across town -48 F over there.... | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | Buddy check your emails, I sent you one. How was your metal trim, was it rusted? Do you have pics? Thanks......g | | | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 | Buddy I have yet to try to take the plywood floor out of my 49. I am very interested in seeing your pics of how you did it. Keep us posted. Weeds | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | The saga continues.
The BIG question is - What was the factory process getting the floor in? I don't think it was designed to ever be replaced!
The short of it is... the plywood has 4 fixed flanges holding it in. 2 under it across the front and back, and 2 on top of it along both sides.
With the screwed down retainer strips across the front and back taken off I can see that removing one (or both) of the side strips would do the job.
Without doing that I'm still not sure how the floor will come out in one piece? Last night I cut off the driver seat platform. I cut out the spot-welds around the edge BUT then found out the back flange goes under the plywood and is spot-welded to the flange holding the plywood up. The seat platform needs to be rebuilt anyway so I cut it off. The front is now free but the plywood can't move forward because it is cut around the wheel wells.
I was going to take the back bottom of the tailgate off BUT it looks like after it was assemblid it was welded.
I'm taking pics...will post later
Any help, suggestions....
More later.....Buddy
GMONIZ - My floor matting is all dried out and very brittle. Part of the reason I'm working at getting the floor out in one piece is to get a pattern. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Buddy, I have been waiting to see if you were going to be successful. I will be surprised to hear that you can get the floor out in one piece without removing one of the side edge-strips (~30 spot welds). With one of the edge pieces removed, you can remove the floor upwards. This is what I was referring to in a reply to your earlier post (and this can be found in older discussions). Tim | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | Thanks Tim,
I understood what you said but thought with the frame off there would be a way to drop out the bottom. I think when all is said and done, I will be taking a side off. Thought I would give it shot anyway.
Bravely Bolting where no man has moaned before....
Buddy | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Buddy,
When I did my frame-off restoration, I had the same hopes as you - and reached the same roadblocks. Just keep moving forward.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | I am curious because I don't own one of those magnificent panels. How are you supporting the body while doing all this work on the bottom ? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | At the moment its jack stands with double 2x4 (screwed together) beams. This is not that stable but just to get it off the frame. I just bought 4 steel steel saw horses (made by SKIL) from Lowes, only $19.97 each. They are rated for 1200 lbs., expanding legs 27" to 41" and they fold up to the size of a 38" 2x6 for storage. I'll get those under it this weekend. My beams will be two 2x4s with a 1/2" plywood spacer between them, glued and screwed. I was going to make some big 4x4 saw horses but with the price of lumber they would not be cheap. The steel saw horses and homemade beams cost a little more but very little time involved, no storage problem and much more versitile for future projects.
Buddy | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | Buddy,
what I was trying to figure out was how you could work on the bottom with it sitting on somehing. It must have been fun getting the frame out from underneath. Did you sling it up to get the frame out from underneath?
Fred | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | It was a 12 step program. Hi, my name is Buddy and I'm a truckaholic.
Jack up body and frame together
A little in the front, then a little in the back
Remove bolts holding them together
Jack the body and frame as low as possible and still be able to get the jack out.
A little in the front a little in the back
repeat
A little in the front a little in the back
This way you don't get the nose too much lower than the tail.
Now with a 2' long 2x4 under the firewall, jack up the body only until you can get a beam over the frame and under the body
Now move to the tailend and do the same there
Repeat, a little in the front a little in the back to get the body off of the frame
Now you drop the frame to the floor and drag it out.
The jack stands have to be wide enough apart in the front to clear the running board supports.
Jack up the body by the firewall again and move your supports in.
This is the Buddy way, inside with 8' clearance to the garage door opener, with 1 floor jack and 3 sets of jack stands.
Whew, I need a drink! :rolleyes:
Buddy in AK | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Buddy,
I used ther same 12-step procedure. Except, I used two 6x6 timbers across the bottom to hold the truck up until the frame was rolled out. This was before my new garage bay was completed/envisioned and I had only one inch to spare (before hitting ceiling beams)
Then the timbers were trimmed to fit under the body and were aligned under the front and rear frame-mounting holes. The body was lag-bolted to the timbers through the frame-mounting holes. This allowed me to attach the two cross-timbers to wheel-dollies, which made it easy for one person to move the body around (I now wish I had taken pictures).
One thing I learned is that only having two supporting beams put a lot of strain on the body. Do not do your finish bodywork until you have the body back on the frame for a few weeks. A week or so after I put the body back on the frame, stress cracks appeared between the rear of the front doors and the roof line. The leaded seam in those locations flexed and cracked the epoxy primer. To be safe, we removed the primer and a lot of the lead, and then filled with Evercoat Metal-2-Metal filler. It has been a little over a year with no problems.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | Valuable infornmation! THANKS!
I had not thought about the body stress.
I was trying to figure out a way to make it mobile, I'll try as you described.
Your truck looks real nice, my driver is a 55.1
Are there any pics of your Burb on the net?
Buddy | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 364 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 364 | I'm just listening to you guys...I copped out and made the floor in two lengthwise pieces...fits perfectly and since its going to be covered...well it works and it only took a few hours. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | Buddy, you are a little ahead of where I am at this time. I have been told by several people that removing the plywood from the bottom was the only way to do it, I am glad you have cleared this up. Please post some pictures of the process. I may leave mine in, but it depends on how much work I have to do with repairing the rust.
Did your matting come out in pieces? Email me. ....g | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 466 | GMONIZ
The mat was many pieces and dry as a bone! I'm taking pics and will put them on my Webshots.
I hope to be down your way later this year, my brother-in-law lives in Danville.
Buddy | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | Originally posted by Buddy in AK:
GMONIZ
The mat was many pieces and dry as a bone! I'm taking pics and will put them on my Webshots.
I hope to be down your way later this year, my brother-in-law lives in Danville.
Buddy Buddy look me up, I would be grate to meet you, maybe you could visit me in the wine country where my burb is stored. You will be about thirty minutes away from me when you are in Danville. ......g | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | Wow , am I glad that I asked some questions. This is awesome! I learned so much tonight. And, TC, those pictures are awesome. That body looks too pretty to be real! | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 12 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 12 | Hey Tim, Dumb Questions. Where did you find that clock? Did it come with the truck? Is it a truck option or modified from the car clock? 
Marc Lund
Blue 49 4400 Loadmaster
Black 53 3800 "Johnny C"
Green 55 3805 Napco
no.web.page
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Marc,
The 1954/55 clock (986633) and housing (986960) were Chevrolet accessories. This windup clock is the same part number for 1953/54 Chevrolet automobiles (the auto also had an electric clock accessory). GMC trucks had a different housing and I think a different clock.
The clock has to be wound up each day but it keeps good time. I have read on another website that the car and truck windup clocks had different location for the wind-up knob on the face. This seems unlikely, since they had the same part number (the dealer would order the clock itself from the auto parts book). Most likely, the manufacturer of the clock changed the location in different production runs.
I was lucky enough to find the NOS housing (in the box with instructions) and a used clock in Hemmings Motor News in 1996/1997. I talked myself into buying it - it seemed expensive at the time ($35). The housings have become much more expensive (over $150 on eBay) but used auto clocks can be bought on eBay for $15 upwards, depending on condition.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 12 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 12 | Originally posted by tclederman:
Marc,
The 1954/55 clock (986633) and housing (986960) were Chevrolet accessories. This windup clock is the same part number for 1953/54 Chevrolet automobiles (the auto also had an electric clock accessory). GMC trucks had a different housing and I think a different clock. Thanks for the part numbers. It helps to know what to look for. I have a friend with a clock in his '51 Stylemaster Deluxe. He's Rodding it, so I was able to talk him out of his 216.(for a fee) He's also considering getting rid of his Clock to smooth out the dash but I'm having some trouble talking him out of that unit. And I dont think the base will fit the curve of the truck dash though. So the numbers will really help.
Marc Lund
Blue 49 4400 Loadmaster
Black 53 3800 "Johnny C"
Green 55 3805 Napco
no.web.page
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,132 | I am getting an education on how to remove the plywood floor on my 49 sub. Buddy keep the info (and pics?) coming. Weeds | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | Originally posted by TooMany2count:
my question is this, my bus/panel/bus had slats of wood in it like the pickups & i had another 1 ton panel w/plywood like most of you folks know. so what years got slats & plywood, OR could of it been the assembly plant they were made at????joe TM2C I have seen many panels and suburbans and they all have had the plywood floors, however the Canopy Express which is based on a Panel body, has slats just like a truck. Is it posible that they used a one ton canopy profile for your bus? ...g | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | Originally posted by TooMany2count:
my question is this, my bus/panel/bus had slats of wood in it like the pickups & i had another 1 ton panel w/plywood like most of you folks know. so what years got slats & plywood, OR could of it been the assembly plant they were made at????joe TM2C I looked at your pics, especially the interior pic with the removed wood. You have a different panel than most that I have seen. Compare your panel interior to the Bus, does the side panels go up to the exterior belt line? It does in the Suburban, at least it is built up to the belt line with an additional panel which house the window drains and tailgate retractors. The CE finishes below the belt line and has bed rails installed to the top of the interior (it's boxed and attached both the interior panel and the exterior panel together.) If it is a panel based bus they may have determined that is was best to use the wood platform from the one ton CE for strength. Let me know what you find in your panel. .........g | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,781 | TM2C After checking out some resources, I discovered that the one ton panel has the wood like the pick-ups. So it appears that your bus and the one ton panel share the same platform. .........g  | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 47 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 47 | I don't mean to throw a wrench in the works, here. But, my '52 3800 has the plywood floor. Maybe because it was headed straight from the factory to the coachbuilder for the "people-hauler" special.
'52 3800 Panel
School bus conversion... Glass all around. (check the gallery!)
outside of a dog, a book is a man's best freind.
inside of a dog it's too dark to read.
-Groucho Marx
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | My '54 and '52 250s both have the plywood floor. | | |
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