The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 53 Chevy 3100 - To buy or not to buy

I hope you are not trying to start it on old gas. It might start but it is liable to gum up your valve stems and bend some push rods. Use fresh gas.

Make sure the positive battery cable is a 6V cable. It should be bigger than a 12V cable. Since you say it is red, I suspect someone has put a 12V cable on it. You may have to go to a tractor store to get a 6V cable. Most chain auto parts won't have it.

Cletis;
Can't he use heavy truck stuff from, like, Kenworth? Good point on the old gas.

rsavage;
Ever get the feeling you're being watched?

It didn't have any gas in it at all. I put some Seafoam in the tank under the recommendation of a mechanic down the street. And about 4 gallons of fresh gas.

Should I be putting lead substitute in this??

Never thought about the cable from battery to starter. It looks like a regular red cable. There's a tractor supply just down the road so I'll check them out today.

(And, being watched? Gawd, I hope so. Then someone can catch me before I make a totally Goober move.)

I love it when a girl (woman) comes on board.. The guys jump all over themselves to help out!
R- you ARE getting good advise from great people..keep at it and the truck will start for you.

Savage,
In regards to your engine size, the 235 (with full oil pressure)has four screws around the base that holds the valve cover down, the 216 has two acorn type nuts on the top of the valve cover that hold it down. The 235 has a sidecover that ends right below the spark plugs and the 216 has a side cover that goes up higher, with holes in it for the sparkplugs. There should also be a flat spot by the distributor that has a serial number on it.
You can also use this link http://www.inliners.org/ (go to the "castings #" link on the left, and with your engine number you can find out what it is. This link will give you some information on your truck by entering the truck's VIN number. http://www.americanclassic.com/paint_test.asp

Samantha

Thanks Freedo and Samantha!!!

WE HAVE SPARK!! I'm 6 spark plugs away from firing it up. If I come back in here with a big WHOOOHOOOOO!!! You'll know.

Now.. off to search the boards but I'll put my query here too. Since I haven't started the truck yet, or driven one this old - I'm not sure of its quirks or needs and things like that.

My questions are -

I depress the clutch while ignition is off and try to move the shift lever. Its tight as a drum. I can't get it to move up, down. Nothing. It is in gear because I need to push the clutch in to get it to roll. Is it stuck? Do I need to get it running to get the juices flowing in it to get it to shift? I just replaced the trans oil. No metal chunks or flakes floating around. Just dirty.

Second question - I was reading about the brakes and how they operate. I have no pedal right now. Once on will they activate? Do I need that power or should they be able to pump up when the truck is off? I was going to check the fluid level but am letting PB Blaster soak on the plug as it's tight as can be. These are probably silly questions but - ya never know till you ask it.

Good news is - I actually found a brake master cylinder IN town and available if I need it. The parts guy was amazed he had it. I was too. YAY!

Off to search the boards. I'm learning so much, some day I might be dangerous!!

Your shift linkage needs freeing up. Get some WD-40 & spray it on all the joints in the limkage. Especialy the pivot just under the steering wheel where the handle joins the rod.
Put some fluid in the master cyl & pump the brakes. It should have a good pettle. It doesn,t matter if the engine is running. There is no power assist.

I use PB Blaster on rusted / frozen stuff, swear by it. Once it is loose, however hose it down with WD-40, or LPS2.

If the truck was sitting for a while, the Master Cylinder and the wheel cylinders may need attention. Brake Fluid is Hydroscopic by nature, absorbing up to 17% by volume of moisture from the air. This moisture turns steel parts to rust. Which then freezes up master cylinders, wheel cylinders, etc. (I learned more about brake fluid, hydraulic fluid and braking systems during a research project than any person would care to know)

I personally would run new lines and not trust my life to a 54 year old brake line or hose.

Just my $0.02

Hey wrenchbender, thanks! I figured but thought it best to ask. The top of the master cylinder is not moving. Will soak it for another day with PB Blaster and see what happens. It looks like whoever else tried to get the top off took a corner of the bolt off so its going to be a challenge.

Will go spray the linkage now.

Oh and.... by the way - WHOOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!!!! I DID get it started! Fired right up. Let it warm for a few, turned it off and.... nothing. Not a whirr or click until my son pushed the button on the top of the starter. Then it started again. I was getting fuel from the fuel pump but its not delivering now. Not sure why.

Guess I'll put that on my list of things to buy when I go pick up the new MC. But at least I got it to run for a few and it sounded good!! That makes me happy.

Have a grrrrreat day.

Oh! And thanks Scott. Your post snuck in there while I was typing mine.

Yep, I figure I'm going to learn all about brakes. Hopefully can have someone show me what to do.

I'm rodding my '48, so the stock stuff is gone. Congrats on getting the engine running.

Check your fuel pump, diaphragm may be shot, peeing gas into your oil. Add one to your list of parts to buy. Or your Carb needs work, and the float is stuck.

I can imagine your joy when your truck started up! You'll have it running before you know it! If you don't have one, a Chevrolet Shop Manual is helpful.
Samantha