The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Fire Extinguisher for your truck

Hi everyone. I'm looking for a suitable fire extinguisher to keep in my bolt. I've looked around a bit online, but I'm not really sure what size/brand would be suitable for my truck. I'm guessing bigger is better, but cost is a factor. Do you all have one in your truck(s)? If so, what can you recommend? Thanks in advance.

I don't have one yet but all I can recommend is that it is a C02 Extinguisher instead of one of the more common extinguishers that shoot white powder...

Allegedly if you have a fire under the hood and use the white chemical type you'll need an engine rebuild (according to 1958GMCNut)

I hope that helps...

~Trev

anything is better than nothing, fire extinguishers are CHEAP insurance...

I've had to use mine TWICE!!!

A CO2 extinguisher leaves no mess, will stop a running engine with no problems....unlike a dry chemical which will leave a mess, leave you choking,
and will terminally kill a running motor..

The dry chemical is basically baking soda, that releases CO2 when it gets hot. It just leaves a really nasty mess to clean up after the fire is over. Before all the flap about chlorinated hydrocarbons, there was an extinguisher medium called "Halon" which was less expensive and lighter weight than CO2, but it evaporated on contact. I don't know if it's still available.
Jerry

I found this one , which seems to be what I'm looking for. This one has 1.4lbs of the agent, whereas they have a bigger one with 2.5lbs of the agent. How far do you think the smaller one would go before it ran out? Would the smaller one be enough? I wish they'd help me get an idea of how big a fire one could put out with each model.

well...
First off, are you looking for a ornimental/antique fire extinguisher? Or a 2008, FD certified exting. to put out fires you are having on your truck???

Was wondering.....

I'm looking for something to put out a real fire in my truck, so I want something new that works. My truck is a driver, and my father and I are working on various things as we go. We aren't being reckless, but I think a framed-off restored truck is probably much less likely to catch fire than one that is being rebuilt as we go. I'd rather be safe than sorry! Thanks.

Ah, I have 3 exting's all kitchen ones. Figured kitchen had grease, oil, electric, and fire. A kitchen one would work in my trucks! Dunno if that is correct or not. Anyhow, it is a medium sized one, havent had to use it, but the pin has come out a few times while I toss dirt on the fire! I got mine at our lumber store. I have seen them at walmart n such. Run about $40 here.

i wonder if a bottle of compressed co2 would work? like from a mig welder. that's what i have sitting around when i do a brand new engine startup. i don't trust the extinguisher i have, don't know how old it is and if it will work when you need it. the only time my grandfather needed his it was plugged up my dirt daubbers. the compressed co2 doesn't have to be checked and can be refilled at welding store. of course even the smaller ones might be a little big to have in your truck.

You'll need an ABC extinguisher to be safe. They can handle any type of fire. However, an extinguisher won't do you any good and could make things worse by spreading the fuel (in the case of a liquid fuel anyway) if you don't use it correctly. You want to aim at the base of the fire in a sweeping motion. Aim too high and you won't put it out. In the case of a fire fed by liquid fuel you can spread the fire by aiming too low and spreading the fuel. Finally, empty the extinguisher when you use it. No need to take a chance on the fire starting up again when you could have fully extinguished by using the entire cannister to begin with. You'll need to throw it away or recharge it once you've used it; so, there's nothing gained by not emptying it.

This is what I have in mine.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2828143570092261295qaDYXR
Be carefull with the cheap ones, usually sold as a "2 for $XX", they're only good for one time use. for what you spend on those, you can get a quality USA made rechargable one.

Don't buy the cheap ones for a vehicle, or anywhere with temperature swings, like a garage. They use plastic valves to hold the pressure in. The plastic leaks under heating/cooling and you lose your pressure.

Buy a quality rechargeable with metal valves.

Longbox, which model is that? It looks like this one . My concern is that the ABC extinguishers (like this one ) will emit the powder material which I've been told can cause real problems. I imagine the BC ones would be ok. And as for sizes, would the model with 1.4lb of agent be a "responsible" choice, or would a larger model be needed? Thanks guys for all your input.

The one I have is an Amerex A620, 1 lb. BC. it also came with the bracket. I paid about $35 for it at the swap meet, same price as 2 of the 1 time use cheapie ones.

This would make a great Tech Tip (and permanent reference). Anyone care to take it on?

You can continue to get more input from other Bolters.

Peggy

In the "for whatever it is worth" category, here is the requirement listed in the VCCA 2007 judging manual:

"Owners are required to have an operational fire extinguisher, which is inspected at the Field Entrance Check. The fire extinguisher must meet current ANSI/UL standards and be rated for a minimum 5 B-C classification. It must pass a pressure check or have a gauge reading in the acceptable range and all seals in tact. The fire extinguisher is to be placed on the passenger side floor of the vehicle while it is on the judging field. No vehicle will be allowed on to the judging field, or be eligible for judging, with out an approved fire extinguisher."

Mike

HALON ONLY for vehicles

2 - 1/2 ib or 5 lb


NO powder ones

http://www.remtec.net/?CID=2&gclid=CLLMi7ODvo4CFR1JYAod3B6nmw

Here is a link that seems to do a good job explaining fire extinguisers. For instance the "5" in the 5 B-C noted in the VCCA requirement means that the extinguisher will cover 5 square feet.
You can read more at: https://www.selectsafetysales.com/t-Fire-Extinguishers-Classes-Types-And-Use.aspx

Someone above mentioned that the dry agents can ruin a vechicle's engine. Is this really true? Would this only happen in the case where the engine was running and it sucked in some of the agent? I'd like to know a little bit more about this issue before I pick up a dry agent 5 B-C extinguisher. Thanks everyone for the help.

The powder in those extinguishers is very corrosive. That's why they're bad. It really does a number of bare metal and aluminum. Bare metal...like intake ports and cylinders.

That being said, I'll take a powder extinguisher over no extinguisher 8 days of the week!

-Brad

Just my $0.02

Check with your insurance agent. I got my FX's from the insurance agent FOR FREE. 3 for the house, two for vehicles.

I get free fire extinguishers and a lower rate on my insurance.

I have a 5 pound (or is it 10? I cant remember) marine extinguisher in my bolt. I got it at West Marine. It fits nicely in the pocket between the gas tank and the cab corner on the driver's side, and is white instead of red so it kind of just blends in. It has held up well to the temperature swings inside my cab- 4 years and no sign of leaks.

After seeing this topic, I started looking into the subject. Also, in the early 70s, I had an engine fire in a '56 Nomad. No fire extinquisher! Got the fire out. Ended up with scortched hood, and hoses, wires and battery all damaged.

Anywho, it appears to me that the best extinquisher, for a vehicle, is a "clean agent" extinquisher. I have looked at 2 brands, Amerex and H3R. The going price for an extinquisher with 2-1/2 lbs. of agent is somewhere around $125. Plus, it appears that there is an extra shipping charge on fire extinquishers. I will be getting 2.

A fire extinquisher is something that one will probably never use. Like a jack. But, it's hell if you need it and don't have it.

it's very hard to clean a carb after using powder
HALON is used because it disperses the oxygen so no clean up needed
i can not comment on corrosion
my .02
just go to a store or online & buy one

my 356 rag~top caught fire (engine -gas hose leak) and was out in less than a minute
cost $4400.00 insurance money
it does not take long

This is the one I carry in my truck, a 5lb capacity dry chem, $38 from McMaster Carr with a mounting bracket. VCCA rules state that it will be on the passenger side floor while on the field at any VCCA sanctioned event.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2997684780098611668ddwvQM

I doubt if I am going to leave the engine running with it on fire, that is, if it’s still running while it’s on fire so the fear of the engine ingesting chemicals doesn’t present a problem with me. I don’t know this for sure but I would think that as long as you rinse it off right away it wouldn’t corrode everything. You just wouldn’t want to store it for any length of time with the powder on it. I’ll check with the fire department next time I’m out at my old job at the Accelerator and see what they have to say.

A 5lb CO2 bottle will run you around $100 that’s the weight of the bottle not the charge and is too big to mount on the kick panel. It can be ineffective in a wind and only gives you a few seconds to get it right. It leaves nothing behind after you use it, so you pretty much have one chance at it.

Halon is out now but there are replacements, Halotron is available for B/C fires leaves no residue also but a 2 1/2lb Is going to run ya around $85 and a 5lb gets up to around $150 vs. $25 for a dry chem. So it depends somewhat on how deep your pockets are and how much clean up your willing to accept. If I remember from the hands on fire safety classes that I had to attend annually for 27years, if you only had one choice the firemen recommended grabbing the dry chemical

The passenger side kick-panel is a popular place for storage because of the VCCA rules. If you choose to mount it there, then you need the smaller 2 1/2lb. size dry chemical.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

what causes more damage, the fire or the dry chemical? :confused_smile:

just get one, and keep you eyes open for the "perfect" one for your needs.

If you do have the dry chemical type, you need to shake it occasionally...

I did use a dry chemical extinguisher on the 2nd of my two fires that happened on my Olds... stupid oily rags, anyway, yes it makes a mess, but I cleaned it up right away and I had turned off the engine before I started looking for the extinguisher!! (it had rolled way under the front seat) Darn thing put that fire out FAST tho!

Ok the best advice I can give is to stop by your neighborhood's FIRE STATION where you will get the best information on what works best on what fires. Besides those guys all drive trucks too. Fighting fire is a science and these guys are trained to the hilt. Why not use that training to be safe. I've had a truck burn to the ground while I stood there helpless to do anything after my soda extinguisher did nothing but make a mess.

Old Dominion Historical Fire Society requirements:

General Muster / Parade Safety Rules & Regulations Waiver

1.) All rigs should carry at least one 2 1/2lb. dry chemical, or 5lb carbon dioxide U/L approved or equivalent fire extinguisher.

I personally would recommend the co2 extinguisher for use on the truck fire. I would not use a dry chem on any of my vehicles.

I've seen fellers in the bush that carry a can of beer on the dashboard for use as an emergncy fire extinguisher.
First hint of a fire it's stop, bonnet up, KLAK! and a ggod shake gets the fire out in no time at all.
Just another point of view.

Another subject near and dear,... Part of my job in the Nuclear Canoe Club is aircraft FX systems, so I get alot of fun info. As a lifelong VW nut, I also know all about the horros of engine fires, esp. what happens when they get hot enough to light off your magnesium block!

ANYWay,... Agent of choice is halon 1211 all the way. Works on A, B, & C fires, is not corrosive, & not harmful if you breathe the vapors (might get a lil light headed). This is the agent that they use for the interiors of comercial aircraft and in the big 150lb roll-a-ways on the flight line. It's also the stuff you can get in ceiling mount bottles that go off automaticly like a spriklers, good insurance if you have a lot of $$ invested in the contents of your garage! Regardless, it's good stuff and ozone freindly.

I'd carry a minimum 10lb bottle. Those small FX's are cute, but all they can do in most fires is ensure you can get everyone away from the vehicle then call to fire dept. I have seen many a burnt out car/truck with an empty toy FX or two next to it.
My preference is a 15 or 20lb, but it's really about where you want to put it. In trucks the best place is in the bed behind the driver, or in the case of a big bolt like mine, on the frame behind the driver.
What gets you in old trucks is all the air space around the engine. Given a decent breeze, CO2 or Halon agent may disperse quickly and must be used in short bursts, a dry agent may be blown about & go on too thin to coat the fuel source.

Look in your local Yellow Pages for fire sprinkler & extinguisher companies. Most of them carry a wide varaiety of bottles in different sizes & weights for whatever application you may need. Talking to your local fire house would be a good source of horror stories and info on what NOT to do, but FX sales people would be the best to talk to about what you want and where you'd like to hide it.