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Joined: Sep 2000
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Ineed to replace my draglink and canot get the ends loose even after heating with a torch.Im thinking of cuting the ends off with a hack saw close to the ball.Will doing this alow for its removal? thanks,ron


1942 1\2 Ton
1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5
1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter
1960 Biscayne Sedan
1965 G/10 panel van
1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome
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Slow..Rider,

I thought a '51 drag link had the large screws, cotter pins, springs and cups deal on both ends. You merely pull the cotter pin and unscrew the outer plugs, wiggle and the whole smear comes apart. Is something different on yours?

Stuart

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Riding in the Passing Lane
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If it,s the original it should come apart like Stuart say,s. If you want to replace the ball or convert to the newer style you have to pull the steering arms & grind the bottom & pess them out. If it,s already got the later style you may need a tie rod end remover tool.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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I removed the pins and even after geting the end caps cherry red with a flame wrench i still coudnt get either one to turn.Not sure what to do next.


1942 1\2 Ton
1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5
1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter
1960 Biscayne Sedan
1965 G/10 panel van
1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome
You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are...
My progress pics
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
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Slow..Rider,

They can be a bear. If you fabricate a huge screwdriver blade that fits the slot nicely from a piece of flatbar, and heat the OUTER housing slightly, it should do the trick. After you heat the outer housing...not hot enough to change color, squirt it with some WD-40 or something, then take your homemade giant screwdriver with a large wrench at a right angle as a lever, and wiggle back and forth until it starts to move.

A small wire brush is great to dig all the crap from those internal threads before you heat them and squirt them with oil. Keep thinking positive thoughts as you do all this...it's a karma thing.

Stuart

Joined: Apr 2005
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They make an impact socket with a screwdriver blade as thick as the slot in the end cap. Fits a 1/2" impact tool. If there is a garage around you that's been in business a long time they probably have one. Snap On and OTC still sell them but a bit pricey for one time use. I have two different sizes and have never had to heat the rod end in the last 58 years. It must make a mess when all the old grease catches fire and runs out--smelly too.


Evan
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Riding in the Passing Lane
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Coilover you are right about the drag link socket but maybe you havn,t experienced vehicles from the rust belt area. It,s a whole different system of mechanicing. I,m kinda on the border & have dealt with both way,s.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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i have purchased trucks and the po actualy welded a nut on the slotted end cap. looks like a reaonable mod to me. beeswax and map gas seems to work for me.

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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If you get desperate, just drill a series of holes acros the face of the plug and remove it in pieces. the kits usually come with new plugs. My kit had one flaw. There are two little stems inside and they are different lengths. My kit had two of he same length. However I kept all the original parts so I didn't have a problem.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


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Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

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As usual, Caroline & Jim come to the rescue. If I had techs on all my mystery stuff as this I would have more hair.


~Jim

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