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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,297 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 86 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 86 | I bought a new old stock steering column and am still experiencing a great deal of play in the wheel while driving. It is even worse on a "crown" road. SO, if you were to overhaul the steering to make it feel tighter and steer easier, what would you do? How about putting in a power steering unit? It is difficult at best to turn even at very slow speeds for my wife who loves to drive the 4 on the floor '53 bolt. What should I do? | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Shmoo,
Getting the truck to steer properly and easily requires you to look at all the links in the chain and repair every link that is loose, worn or binding. I would jack up the entire front end so both wheels were off the ground. Lay on your creeper and start shaking and wiggling things starting at each front wheel.
Nothing should be sloppy or loose. If you can pull the drag link, you can turn both wheels side to side without the interference of the steering box while you check the king pins for binding. Whatever wear you find will have to be addressed. Hard steering, excessive play and wandering are signs of cumulative front end wear.
When everything is repaired, a front end shop should take a look at your toe-in, and maybe your camber. That's my take on it.
Stuart | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Tie rods and drag link are adjustable for play on the AD. If there's play, try pulling the cotter pins in the ends of the loose part,then turn the plug in. You'll need a drag link socket (looks like a big screwdriver bit) to do this. Once you get the slop out, turn to the closest hole in the housing and install a new pin. If it's in the box itself (very possible) then the lash needs to be set in it. On the engine side of the steering box, there's a slotted adjuster screw with a locking nut. It's very similar to the lash adjuster on the rocker arms. Take the nut loose, then turn the screw in, periodically checking the feel. Ideally, you would check this with the drag link disconnected using a scale, but going by feel works fine. You want to have as little play as possible, which should be easy to get with a NOS box. You wil want to have the alignment checked, especially toe-in if you hae to mess with the tie rods. Stuart's got the right idea on the other angles, jsut has the wrong one. Caster is the one you'll want to have checked. Camber is non-adjustable on the I beam trucks without bending the axle, but caster can be corrected with shims under the springs. caster is also more critical to straight ahead driving- more positive caster=more stability, but harder steering. negative caster=easier steering, but less stability.
Bill Burmeister | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Bill, Thanks...a touch of early dementia I guess. Stuart | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Ahh, you're OK. Lots of folks get those 2 angles mixed up. I deal with them pretty much every day, so it's really second nature to me.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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