The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Clutch removal?

Is the clutch easily removed when the transmission is out? A guy told me that the springs might be damaged. Also Do I need any special tools to remove the clutch from the pressure plate?

First question, Yes. Second question, No.

What are you working on? We can get more specific with the help if we knew the vehicle/engine/tranny combo you've got.

Basically, clutch replacement goes like this:

Support engine
remove tranny
remove throwout bearing & clutch fork
unbolt pressure plate from flywheel
catch pressure plate and clutch disk as they rapidly decend toward your nose.
Remove flywheel and have it surfaced (kinda like turning a brake drum)
Buy new throwout bearing, P-Plate and disk.
Using the disk alignment tool, installation is
reverse of removal.
(Don'tcha hate when the manual says that? )

good luck
Chip

My truck is a'51 GMC with a 228 and a 3 speed transmission.

Thomas:

Me too! I'm readying to drop a clutch assembly from a 235 inline six in a 54 Bel Air (engine block ser. no. 0415156T54Z & VIN C54N103958). Have you done yours yet? Any surprises or "new found" wisdom from your experience?

Chiphead:

Thank you for the step by step on clutch replacement, but, what's "installation is reversal of removal?" And what's a manual? :p

What is a clutch alignment tool (for those that have never replaced a clutch disc)?

"As usual, the best clutch disc alignment tool is an input shaft from a junk transmission. However most of us are stuck using the plastic type which is sloppy to say the least."

It has been a while since I bought a clutch disc (friction plate) or clutch pressure plate. When I was a boy, they never came with an alignment tool. Do clutch plates now come with an alignment tool (similar to the one below)? Luckily, I have a vintage front (input) shaft from a donor transmission.

Tim
[img]http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/images/align.jpg[/img]

Good luck. I just replaced the clutch in my '68. I had everything out in an hour. It cost me $30 to have the flywheel resurfaced. Make sure they don't do it on a brake lathe. Getting everything apart is the easy part. Be careful when you're pulling the pressure plate and flywheel out. Both are heavy, esp. if you're on your back on the ground. You should also check to see what condition the pilot bushing is. It wouldn't hurt to replace it while you are down there. Most of the kits come with one anyway.

The main problem I had was getting the input shaft to go into the pilot bushing. I used the plastic alignment tool on the clutch disc. Piece of junk. They were a hair off when I went to put the tranny in. I had to loosen the pressure plate to get it all to align. Use the alignment tool, or a spare input shaft, and MAKE SURE it is all square before trying the tranny. You can eyeball it when you have the tool in there, then snug it up. I hope this helps. John.

I only use an aligjnment tool when noone is around to help. I eyeball the alignment and stab the tranny. When ready, have your assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal, while pushing the tranny forward and rotating the tailshaft to shove the shaft into the pilot bearing.

I have a universal alignment tool I got at napa for about $10. The last two clutches I got came with plastic tools, but they were vehicle specific (BMW, Mazda).

Before you re-install the tranny, go to your local hardware store and get some all-thread rod in the diameter of your upper bolts. It makes a nice guide to hold the tranny while you get the lower bolts in.

Yes, absolutely, pal. You can also use spare 235 headbolts, they are the same thread but much longer.

Hey tclederman:

For clutch removal tools, I called a guy here in NC - the last guy to have a bone yard for pre-70s vehicles. I asked him for a junk tranny for a 54 3-speed so I could cannibalize the clutch gear for the alignment tool.

He said no but he would provide me a steel clutch alignment tools for $5.00. He has been working on old vehicles since Henry **** was a baby. Whiskey and tobacco keep him young, I guess.

His name is Ray and his number is 336-994-2689.

PS: This is intended as a casual lead, not an ad. No offense to oversensitive conformists is intended.

whatmeworry,

Thanks for the info. It is nice of you to post it here. But, as I said above, "Luckily, I have a vintage front (input) shaft from a donor transmission."

There is no better tool for the job; however, if I did not have my input shaft, I would go for the metal tool you describe.

[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/alfred.jpg[/img]

I gave up tobacco 26 years ago, but whiskey still works for me.

Thanks,

Tim

tighten the pressure plate bolt evenly, you may have to turn engine over a couple of times