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| | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 | I recently re-adjusted the valves on my 1975 350, they were all at 1/4 to 1/2 turn past "zero lash"... where the book setting is 3/4 turn past "zero lash"... during the test drive, i didnt detect any difference in performance...
comments?
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
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| | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 586 | Loose is better than too tight(as far as valve adjustment goes).Too tight will hold the valve open(pump up)on a high rev.
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| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Rusty Rod,
I don't think it is critical. Once the lifter is pumped up, it in essence becomes a "solid hydraulic lifter". I think the recommended adjustment positions the piston in the center of the travel inside the lifter proper, and this is what the engineers want. As long as it is close...not bottomed out and not clacking, you are OK.
This is my understanding of it, but I might be OTL.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | The reason for giving another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after the lash is taken up is to get the piston in the hydraulic lifter in the middle of it's travel. I have learned that going to 1/4 turn or less makes the lifters less likely to pump up at high rpm's. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 455 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 455 | I have used this method for hydraulics on my daily driver for years. Valve adjustment | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 184 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 184 | To follow up on this question, how does this question affect those of us with solid lifters?
Not to steal the thread Rusty, but I just went through a similar adjustment issue and this has been a helpful primer. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | 39 AZ 3/4 Ton,
With any solid lifter, the side to err on would be loose. You can visualize the valve train being tight, heating up and holding the valve a tiny bit off the seat...soon, the gases have eroded a channel. The hot valve gets it cooling from coming in contact with the seat in the water cooled head.
Solid lifters are adjusted to a specific clearance as opposed to calling out one turn, or 3/4 of a turn etc. Was this the question?
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Rusty Rod, Just for my own curiosity I measured a 3/8" NF bolt through the under head to under nut dimension, then turned it 1/4 turn more! Less than .013 thousandths travel...not much more than a RCH!  Stuart | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,876 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,876 | A solid-lifter cam has a more gradual acceleration ramp, before the valve actually starts to lift. ideally, the clearance should match this area of gradual lift. It's easy to figure out with a degree wheel and a dial indicator. Otherwise, just try to stay with the cam grinder's clearance specifications. A slightly loose adjustment with a solid lifter system will be a little noisy, but that's better than running out of clearance once the engine warms up.
Jerry
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| | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 | Thanks for the input.... this engine has hydraulic lifters... and i was just wondering how much, if any effect, a half turn on the adjustment might make on performance.
I'm thinking as long as they are not too tight and not clattering, they will be good..
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 59 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 59 | Hotrod Lincoln , I've always been told that on a cold engine ADD .002 to the number that ya want to adjust to for a hot engine ....
Any thoughts . Solids are the ones in ? .
Thanks , George Hood
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| | | | | Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 455 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 455 | I'm thinking as long as they are not too tight and not clattering, they will be good.. That's how I do my hydraulics. Tightening the screw right after it stops clicking will give it an additional 1/8" turn anyway - perfect. Just as long as the push rods are spinning you should be good for thousands of miles without any re-adjustment necessary. If they don't spin - you are too tight and wear will increase. | | |
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