The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop again dual master cyl

some time ago i asked about dual master cyl conversions (1951 1/2 ton) and got some good replies. Questions about rod alignment problems and the need for residual valves came up and i would like to ask again for your input on this subject. In particular L.T. and Johnny Wah were in the process of installing kits from American Classic and Brothers, and I was wondering how they made out. Russintussin had a really good looking system but it looked like power assist and i would rather stay with the manual drum system. everyone that has done a conversion please respond.

thanks Jerry

I'm in the middle of the install now and I have no alignment problems.
I am eliminating the banjo fitting at the driver's side brake hose and am putting in a "T" and a short 3/16" line.
You will need to put in another access hole or a door in the floor board to get to the MC. I bought a funnel with a flex neck to fill it. I'll let you know how much fluid I put on the ground!
Keep me informed on your progress.
One of these days I'll post pics on my web site.
darn customers are keeping me too busy to finish up the truck!

duddygoober

--great handle

Anyway, I'm embarassed to say that I have made NO progress on mine since I posted on that topic--must have been almost a month ago. The truck is still on stands in the garage. The dual MC is still in it's shipping box. However, I do have an understanding wife (that's why I have 2 trucks, a 55.2 and a 56).

LT

Hi Jerry, I just did that swap to my 1950 1/2 ton a couple months ago. Piece-o-cake. I saw it in Vintage Truck mag. Apr 2003. I ordered the parts from Engineered Components inc. (860) 872-7046 about two hundred bucks for the adapter a residual valve, and the master cyl. The master cyl. bolts right up and is in perfect line. I ran the new brake lines across the cross member just as the original, and mounted the residual valve there also then on the right side frame rail where the brake line used to tee into the front and the rear brakes I removed the tee and replaced it with two ells, one facing forward and one aft. and stacked them on top of one and other restrapped the tubing with the stock straps. I bleed the system, checked for lks. and went for a drive. They work as well as any other modern vehicle and I worry much less about having to use a tree to stop my truck. This vehicle is my daily driver. The other day I was under there to see if all was still hanging on and it almost looks like it came that way, now that there is a little dirt up there. I hope this will help you.

Tony Romero

thanks for the replys. I am relieved to find out that some of the kits do work. I really didn't want to do a ton of fabrication and it appears that outside of fabricating the lines a couple of the kits will fit. this board is great!

thanks again Jerry

My set up was straight forward, no problems with alignment,etc. The same 'kit' will work with or without a power booster. (my truck has a small block, so I opted for power) If I had gone without the power-booster and just the dual M/Cyl., I would still get the remote filler...(mounted on firewall) Without it, I would have to crawl under the truck,remove the M/C cover and reach up with a finger to check/fill the master cylinder. That most likely wouldn't happen too often. I think most of the kits are pretty much designed the same, from what I saw when shopping around. My set up is with four wheel drums. I was also able to replace all of my brake lines with pre-fab lines from the local NAPA store. Using different lenth lines (with the fittings attached) I only had to use ONE union to attach a couple lines. I routed the lines close to stock routes, but not bend for bend, and used rubber-coated line clamps.

If you buy a bracket, make a template from it to have for future trucks, or to build clones for trading stock. This is not rocket science, but it's good to build where others have gone before. Don't forget residual pressure check valves (10# for drums, 2# for disc) You need two one for front one for back. These help keep a full pedal in traffic, also retard sucking air into your system when pedal is let off.

Just completed a similar conversion to front disc, rear drums on a 51. The mounting kits available work very well, but the offset of the MC does make it difficult to fill. A couple of tricks that enable you to fill from the original hole, without crawling underneath the vehicle, can make it easier.
When filling the reservoir, I found that using a 60ml catheter tipped syringe with a short section of clear tubing allows you to add just the right amount of fluid without spilling any extra all over the floor with a funnel.
When it comes time to pull over the bail on the top, incorporate a small piece of chain (with a pull on the end) to the bail. You avoid scraping up your hand this way.
The only trouble I had was bending the tubing when it comes out of the MC. I put in a saginaw 4sp with Patrick's Hurst shifter setup. There is very little room between the shifter gates and the side of the MC - less than 1 inch.

Does anyone have a NAPA part # for the 10# residual valve used for a dual drum setup? Need to add that one into the system. Thanks.