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| | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 86 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 86 | I KNOW I have seen a post regarding this problem, but now, since we have it, we can't find it. So, before we replaced the gas tank and the fuel gauge, our old gauge read FULL all the time. Somebody did something, and then it was fine. Now, after getting rid of the rock and rust ladden fuel tank, and replacing the gauge with a new one, we are back to the FULL status again, even though we know that there are only five gallons in the tank.
So, what is the best trouble shooting maneuver to do before we go crazy? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 | | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 | Yea, make sure you have a good ground and the 'hot' wire going to the sending unit is attached and solid.
Those things have a float in them that can sometimes get stuck, too.
an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Shmoo,
It sounds like you are pointing the guilty finger at the sending unit. Here is the nickle tour for the whole enchilada.
Key ON, pull wire from sending unit at tank, gauge should read FULL.
Key ON, ground that same wire to a known good ground, gauge should read EMPTY.
The drill tells you that the gauge works, and the wire from gauge to tank is contiguous.
The gauge needs 6 volts, and should be grounded in the cluster assembly according to Hoyle.
If all this happens properly, the culprit is the sending unit, or a poor ground to the sending unit.
Stuart | | |
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