The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pushrod Cover Gasket

I'm about to attempt the installation of my 4th pushrod cover gasket. The first three leaked (actually the oil practically poured out along the bottom of the panel).

Looking at some of my past failures - when I look at the old gaskets I can see that the gasket sealer I've used is pressed smooth along the top and side edges. Along the bottom edge it's still bumpy like it didn't even make contact with the metal.

The panel has a flange along the bottom edge. I'm beginning to wonder if the edge of the flange is making contact with the side of the enging block and preventing a good seal.

The gaskets I've been buying say they're for a '54 235 Chevy engine, but could they be too thin? It looks like it's about 3/32". How thick should this gasket be?

What do you think about using two gaskets to increase the thickness?

Make sure both mating (giggle) surfaces are free of the old gasket.

Check on a flat surface that the cover is flat.

You shouldn't tighten any screws very much. Just make the gasket sealer squeeze out and then let it dry.

Most important part is to straighten the flange on the cover. I use a 216 cover on my 235, I hate the 4 bolt design, you have to really glue the gasket with the 4 bolter. Felpro makes two thickness for this gasket, get the thicker one, if you can.

One 250 that I had needed a new cover, the old one was bent and kinked. I finally straightened the best I could and put it on with blue rtv, no gasket. It never leaked again, but was a sob to get off.

Thanks, I appreciate all of the suggestions. I'll try as many as I can.

Yes, I'm using the Felpro gaskets. The local Napa says that they can only get the thinner one. Maybe I'll try two of them to double the thickness. I should be able to do it without running into any clearance problems.

One other suggestion that applies to side cover,valve cover, auto trans pan etc. lay cover on supported surface and from sealing surface outward, hit bolt holes with ball peen hammer to round them outward again. With time, holes get pulled inward so that they touque up before sealing surface gets pulled tight. Hope this makes sense...I wrote it and it confused me when I read back what was written!

I just went back and reread your post. You're takling the side cover, and I was talking the valve cover.

Since the side cover is rarely removed, you can glue both sides of the gasket. I have been using Permatex #3 lately, seems to work pretty good. Everyone and their dog has their own opinion on gasket adhesive, I just don't like using rtv with cork gaskets.

It's been a while since I first posted this message. It took a while to get everything worked out but the story turns out to have a happy ending.

I decided to try to measure the gap between the pushrod cover and the side of the engine block. I cleaned everything up one more time and then got some "Silly Putty". I worked it until it was as soft as I could get it in the cold weather we're having this time of year. Then I stuck it to the inside of the cover and pressed it in place on the side of the engine block.

When I measured the flattened "Silly Putty" it was just under 3/16". This explains why the 3/32" gaskets kept failing (although I still haven't figured out how the old gasket that I took out ever worked).

I got some 1/8" thick gasket material and cut out two identical gaskets then I glued them together to make 1 quarter inch thick gasket.

That did the trick. I was able to run the engine without losing a drop of oil.

That tells me your flange is out of shape. Like Greg H. said above and confused himself, the bolt holes have deformed the metal. So no matter how tight you screwed the bolts, the cover flange would not get any closer to the block's edge.

You could have straightened out the flange properly, or used a thicker gasket. I am glad it worked. If you have trouble again, examine the flange and bolt holes better. It should be flat.

I have one last suggestion in case anyone else reads this post.
I had problems for years trying to get gaskets not to leak. Someone told me about General Motors Gasket Sealer. It is the best stuff in the world. It almost never leaks when I use it and it is very easy to clean up when removing a gasket. It is General Motors Part Number Gr. 8.800 - 1#1050026. You can buy it in a can with a built in brush at your local Chevrolet dealership parts counter.
By the way, I always use FelPro gaskets - even if I have to drive across town to get them. No one else's are better! Not a paid commercial announcement - just the truth!
I also always mate my parts as closely as possible. An remember, tighter is not necessarly better.