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#216890 10/03/2006 7:35 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 51
L
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
L Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 51
After installing the new Heat Control Panel in my '67 C10, I realised that the cables that control the vent doors aren't working properly.

After working with them a bit, it sounds like the vent doors are rusted or sticking, which makes it difficult to use the sliders to make them operate properly.

I haven't taken a real close look at the boxes that house the vent doors just yet. Do I need to completely remove the boxes to get to the vent doors to clean and lubricate them, or are there pins exposed externally that I can lubricate without going thru all that trouble.

The truck came with factory air, but it is no longer working. I am more concerned with the heater, since winter is coming soon.

I mainly just want it to blow heat into the truck, and have the defroster working.

And, the heater does work, it blows heat to the floor under the glove box. I need to order new ducts for the defroster, which I will do in a week or two.

Thanks!


~ davey
1967 Chevrolet 1/2-Ton Pickup
In the Stovebolt Gallery
I'm not sure if I was ever as good as I thought I was, but I know I'm not as good as I used to be.
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#216891 10/03/2006 2:11 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
I haven't worked on your specific type of truck but back when I was doing that kind of work I found generally that the box had to be removed to work on the components. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong. smile


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
#216892 10/03/2006 2:21 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 687
T
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
T Offline
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 687
I think Tiny is right. The problem you are dealing with is common in evaporator housings on old vehicles. After years of dirt accumulation and foam seals that had deteriorated and fallen to the bottom of the case, you'll have to get that crud out and possibly repair the seals.
Sorry for the bad news, but it will be worth the effort in the long run.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
#216893 10/03/2006 11:09 PM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 63
T
Member
Member
T Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 63
I too have a problem with the controls on my '67 control panel.

In the process of installing a factory A/C unit in my truck, I noticed that the arms on the evaporator box did not move. Turns out the culprit was a small nail wedged under the defroster door! My guess is, it was on the dash and fell down the defroster vent.

After tending to all that, I made sure the cables from the control panel all moved freely and proceeded to hook everything up.

To my surprise - when I tried to move the levers they were quite stiff! Is there some trick to routing the cables? Best I can tell nothing is in a bind...

Not trying to kidnap the thread here, but we may have a related problem.

Thanks!

#216894 10/04/2006 12:10 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
T
Ex Hall Monitor
Ex Hall Monitor
T Offline
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,377
A good cleaning & graphiting of the cables should allow them to move freely if they aren't in a bind. A lot of people use oil which will gum them up over time.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.

Moderated by  Gdads51 

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