The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering Box Rebuild

Hello,

I need some guidance in rebuilding my steering box on my '48 AD. The manual indicates that this is a recirculating ball type. I have read the threads regarding this task and it sounds like there are not too many parts which need replacing. Will I have to replace the 60 balls in the ball guides? To do a proper rebuild, which parts should be replaced? One thread suggested these parts are needed:

Sector shaft seal (pitman arm side of box): CR 11055 (chicago rawhide @ NAPA)

Side cover bushing: GM-266316 (dealership)

Seal Group # 6.855, part #07801626

Adjustment Screw (aka side lash adjusting screw and shims): GM-605142 (dealership) [THIS IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE]

I don't want to buy a "kit", but would prefer to obtain parts individually from Chevy and Napa since the seals in the "kit" tend to leak and the gaskets are the wrong size.

I would appreciate any thoughts based on your experiences so this rebuild can go as smoothly as possible. Thank You!

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b386/littlebuddytoo/SteeringBox.jpg

littlebuddie,

You sure have done your homework...I'm not sure about the kits having inferior parts though.

The only thing I don't see on your grocery list are the upper and lower thrust bearings.

These are Timken style cup and cones, easily available at a bearing supply house, or maybe a NAPA store.

All of the bushings, seals and bearing races will have to be driven in without destroying them. Usually this takes specific drivers, but sometimes sockets can be used, and the old races can become drivers for the new races (grind the OD first).

Chev's of the 40's lists a kit for this rebuild at $127.00, and this includes the adjusting screw. Good luck!

Stuart

I got my kit from Chevs of the 40s. It had everything I needed at the best price of any of the vendors. I have no doubt that all the kits contain exactly the same stuff.

The bearings and side seal were standard issue stuff I could have gotten at NAPA. With the bearings and races, they way to get them is to take the old ones out, being careful not to damage the numbers stamped into them, take them to NAPA or whereever and they can use their computer to cross reference the OEM number into whatever line they carry. No big deal.

The Gasket didn't fit the side cover so I made one from universal gasket material and an Exacto.

I inspected the ball bearings and decided I didn't need to change those either.

The sector shaft bushing was a little too tight so I had to ream it and used a brake cylinder hone and drill, which I reccomend everyone do.

When I checked the tolerance on clearance for the side lash adjustment screw using a feeler guage, it was withing spec so I could have used the old one but put the new one in anyhow.

The best part of the kit was the photocopied GM steering box rebuild instruction manual.

If you are planning on ordering a re-build kit, check out your upper mast bearing (at the steering wheel) and replace it at the same time to consolidate shipping.

Most of the time all you need are the small parts as you are refering to. Examine the gear teeth & make shure the ball nut rotates on the worm smoothly. If it was not out of grease that all will be good.

Thanks for the suggestion atomarc. I will put upper and lower thrust bearings on my shopping list and I will expect to have to destroy a few old parts removing them and not fret too much.

NM51, I figured I'd have to make a gasket myself so thanks for the heads up on that. I didn't think about the upper mast bearing so that's now on the shopping list as well.

Wrenchbender Ret., I will examine all the parts for wear and replace accordingly. I like to ask questions before I do any surgeries so I have fewer surprises.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I don't know how I have gotten along for so long without this great website!

You list the sector shaft seal first, and thirdly the "seal". I believe these are duplicates. That "seal" is the GM sector shaft seal, and the one I used after the lousey one in the rebuild kit allowed leakage.

You did not mention lubricant for the box. Some use SAE 90 gear lube, but it may leak. Penrite makes steering box grease which is much like came in the box originally. Worked great for me. The original grease from GM, Part #4318039, is no longer available, but I give you the number so you can check if you wish.

Hi Brian,

I sure would like the part number for the gear lube.
It must have been your post I remember reading that said the kit seals are not good. Who wants to have to tear into the box twice when once should do. You are right about the seal. There is only one for the sector shaft. I replaced that about 25 years ago but since it is leaking again, I have decided it is time to be more thorough and address the whole unit. Should be kinda fun!

Part number? Read my post again, I gave it to you. Unless you are talking about the Penrite stuff, just do a search for penrite, there are a few retailers online.

Penrite! OK, gotcha!

Sounds like the basis for a great tech tip when you get it wrapped up!

Hello,

Having removed the steering box, cleaned it up and replaced the balls in the ball guide, I am making a list of parts numbers I will need. I have numbers for:

1)Cover bushing = GM-266316
2)Seal = GM-07801626
3)Adjustment screw = GM-605142

I don't have numbers for:

1)Sector shaft bushing
2)Worm shaft bearings (no stamped numbers visible)
3)Mast bearing assembly

I am making my own gaskets.
I'd really appreciate some help identifying these parts.
Thanks again!

I think the sector shaft bushing is the same as the cover bushing you already have listed.

I'm surpised there's no numbers on the bearings or races. I expected a 'new process' number (an old brand of bearings). I think I've thrown my old ones away but will have a look and edit this post if I find them.

Well, I have looked at those bearing races with everything but a microscope and can't find any mark whatsoever. I know that these are the original bearings. Thanks for checking NM51!

littlebuddie-

I believe you! I couldn't find my old bearings and never thought to jot down the numbers of the new ones before I put them in.

If you can't find a number, just take the bearings to a bearing house or napa and with use of the book and a dial caliper they'll find the right bearing. Then, if you don't mind, post us the part number.

Another way of find the number might be to go to the dealership and have them give you the GM number, then you can take that number to Napa or whomever and they'll cross it into a part number for the line of parts they carry.

The online parts breakdown shows a Hyatt bearing # 10790s for this item. I called my bearing house and they said...good number, but obsolete!

There is a site I have been to that has obsolete bearings, but I can't remember where.

This bearing is available in a set with cups and cones from Chev's of the 40's, it just isn't at a Auto Zone price!

Stuart

I found sources for the mast bearing. A repro for 60 bucks!..........I think I'll re-use the old one. It doesn't appear to be bad anyway.

The bushings have the same I.D.(1 7/64") but the O.D. might be different (haven't gotten the cover bushing out yet), and the lengths are different also (7/8" and 1 3/8"). I will take the thrust bearings and bushings into a bearing shop and perhaps they can be matched without identifying numbers. Thanks atomarc for the Hyatt bearing number, it may be very helpful as a clue.
I will keep track of all the numbers for these parts and post them after the job is complete. Thanks again for all of your help!!!

littlebuddie,

My bearing house found the Hyatt bearings after checking with several obsolete suppliers. Each bearing was $24.33 and each race was $17.67. My math says this is $84.00 clams before tax and shipping....Chev's of the 40's has them for $70.00 [2003 catalog].

Stuart

I am going with the bearings and races from Chev's of the 40's as you suggested atomarc . So in a few days, I should have everything I need to wrap up this re-build. All else is looking good. Thanks everyone for your help in this project! You're great!

littlebuddie