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| | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 | The manual for my AD says to apply 400 inch pounds of torque to the wheel bearing nut on the front hubs. If I do the math and divide by 12, it gives me 33 and 1/3 foot pounds to set my torque wrench to.
Somehow I find this excessive. I've always thought that the nut is tightened by feel; wiggling the hub to get the grease to set in the races. Then cotter pinning it.
I would have guessed that if a torque wrench was applied maybe only 10 pounds would be necessary.
Any thoughts? :confused: | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | Rattletrap,
It seems there is always the book method or the field method for doing things. I have always tightened the nut, with a wrench, VERY tight. This mashes out excess grease and seats everything.
Back the nut off until you can turn it by hand. Tighten it by hand until it stops. If you can insert a cotter pin, do so..if it needs a TOUCH more, use the wrench to sneak up to the hole.
The key is to only go hand tight or a tighter, never back off to line up a hole.
If in doubt, go by the shop manual. The above method has worked for many people for many years on many old AD trucks.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2004 Posts: 351 | OK
I'll give it the 33lb of torque wrench to seat the grease in the new roller bearings, then back it off and retighten by hand and back off.
Then, of course, I'll adjust the new brakes to a slight friction as well.
Just seems like too much. Don't know if I don't go.
Thanks guys, I'll report back in case anyone else is interested in my pessimism. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 236 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 236 | Actually Atomarc recommended hand tightening it then if needed tightening it with a wrench until you can insert the cotter pin.
"The key is to only go hand tight or a tighter, never back off to line up a hole."
This is how I've done it as well though I do seem to remember the shop manual for my 58 specifying 33 ft-lbs of torque as well.
58 Fleetside, 235, "The Old Buckin' Bronco"
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | That is the correct method for the original ball type bearings, they need to be pre-loaded to seat them in the races. 33 ft/lbs isn't really that much, especially when you compare it to what the modern car/truck wheel bearings torque to. They average from 175-220 ft/lbs, depending on model. Atomarc's method is correct for modern tapered roller bearings.
Bill Burmeister
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