The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Is this a 216 fuel pump ????

What are earth is this item ? Am I correct that it is a 216 cu in. fuel pump ?

http://www.cmaynard.com/IMG_0586.JPG

looks like it could be a dual pump Fuel/Vacuum.

Are there any casting number on the mounting flange?

Brian,
On the side of the mounting flange I found "4980GL".
If this is what you suggest, does it have advantages of what one normally sees on chevy engines ? Will it work on a 235 and if so do you think it's better that what normally comes stock (seperate fuel pump)?

Craig

Was/Is there a glass bowl for it? Sometimes you can find newer units, rebuilt from old and they remove the bowl and have an aluminum cover in it's place on top. Uses same screws to hold top on though. To me, doesn't look like Chev pump. I'm thinking the lever is too short also.
Doesn't look that clean, think I would look for another, and you can buy new ones, including the glass bowl from Chevs of the 40s and other vendors.

I did infact find a glass bowl in my truck part stash. I believe I did remove this from a previous 216 engine that I had scrapped, but just wasn't sure. It looks much different that the pump I have on my 235 which is about 1/2 the height.

cmayna,

I do not know what engine that pump is for but here are a few pieces of (perhaps useless) information:

1. Every 216/235/261 fuel pump that I have seen (on a truck) has had the inlet on one side (to the rear of the engine) and the outlet on the opposite side (towards the front of the engine). Your pump seems to have both the inlet and oulet fittings on the same side of the pump. Of course, one of the fitting might have be realigned.

2. I have seen (and used) dual action pumps (with and without glass bowls) and all have gas inlet to rear and gas outlet to front - with both inlet and outlet on the top half of the unit. The vacuum ports (two) were on the bottom of the unit. These ports were usually (but not always) labelled as "In" and "Out"; and, these ports/holes in the body were tapped the same as the holes for the fuel. Of course, there were adapters in these vacuum ports to fit the smaller diameter vacuum lines.

My uneducated guess is that the pump is not for a Chevy truck with a 216 engine.

A dual-action fuel pump provides a steady vacuum to the wiper motor.

Tim

Bolters:
While we're on the subject, I recently installed a dual stage fuel pump from a 58/235 engine on my built 261. What I noticed was that it was damned hard to get the pump seated and literally had to use the mounting bolts to pull the pump up flush with the block. Are these pumps usually that hard to seat, or is there possibly something wrong??? Hey Tony and ideas????

Jim III,

If the high spot on the lobe of the camshaft is in the right (wrong?) position, it could be a little more difficult to intall the pump. I have also had to use the mounting bolts to "pull-in" a fuel pump (I suppose I could have more easily rotated the engine in order to place the cam lobe in a more propitious position?).

cmayna,

Here are some photos of a dual action pump on a 235 (it looks just the same on a 261 and 235). Please note that the fuel supply-line has not yet been attached to the rear of the fuel pump (upper part of the pump). Also, the vacuum lines are reversed on the lower part of the fuel pump (I will correct this when we come out of the winter freeze).

As I recall, I used 1/4 inch brake lines for the vacuum lines (with appropriate adapters). One line is routed under the thermostat housing (to the intake manifold) and the other line is routed above the thermostat housing (with the fuel line to carb and the vacuum advance line from carb to distributor advance) and then routed along the valve cover to a hose from the wiper motor (at/near the firewall. All pipes are, of course, routed such that the valve cover is still easy to remove.

Tim

[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/DAfuelpump1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/DAfuelpump2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/DAfuelpump3.jpg[/img]

Thanks for the reply!
As I recall, two of the lines, (fuel and vacuum) attached to a bracket between the engine and thermostat housing, I'll check the factory assembly manual to see how the rest were routed. Then I'll attempt to scan the manual pages into the PC.

Dang tclederman,
Those pictures are extreme purdee. Looks like a fair amount of work, so is it really worth it ? Does the vacumn wiper motor keep tickin under a full load ? Any other advantages ? I do like the idea of install all new metal lines. Who is a good source for the flaring and bending tools?

Tim,
What is the finish on your intake exhaust manifold set ? Looks bead blasted.

cmayna,

I am always learning something (that's why I regularly check out this site).

The vacuum lines are not flare-fitted; they use the flared-end of one side of the ready-made straight brakeline and compression (ferules?) fitting on the other side. I have not yet mastered flare fitting but I am getting pretty good at bending steel and stainless steel lines/tubes. Got my bending tool from Harbor Freight (and am pleased). I have never tried a double flare but that day will come.

The double-action full pump is a great help (but it is mostly for looks on this truck which will not see much action in the rain). Since I have easy access to the engine (until the front sheet metal gets installed), fitting and routing the pipes was quite easy.

The finish on the intake manifold is the same as the finish on the exhaust manifold - a stainless-steel-colored hi-temp manifold paint from Eastwoods (after being bead blasted and carefully handled). I am not impressed and will not use it again (in fact, I am quite disappointed). Look closely at the exhaust manifold and you will see that the 30-minute-curing caused the paint on the exhaust manifold to bubble and discolor. My next manifold will be coated with CAYLX manifold dressing (or, whatever other product that is recommended here).

I am looking forward to reassembling this truck (a 1954 Suburban) in the spring and driving it this summer (for the first time in over 20 years).

Tim

Tim,
If the rest of your vehicle looks anywhere like your engine, you'll be a proud papa. I hope you can send me or post a couple pics the day it goes out for the virgin run.

Regards
Craig

I just HATE the fellas with these "superclean" engines and installations! I don't seem to have the patience for it. BUT, it's all gonna be oily and dirty in a few miles, unless you get out the cleaning stuff every drive anyway. Show guys drive me nuts with all the trunkload of stuff they wipe over there cars and under too at shows!

Yep! Sure is Perty!