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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,781 Posts1,039,299 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 | '66 1/2 ton Panel. I want to get rid of my 2 piece drive shaft. Is there an application out there for a direct swap. I'd rather not cut & weld. Has anyone done this swap already?? Any issues with pinion angle??
Thanks,
Jim Sgrig | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | Automatic? I have done both a 64 & 69 shortbed 1/2 tons which use the same frame as your panel I believe. 69 used a TH400, had driveshaft built locally about $125, removed carrier mount, bolts right up. On the 64, it has 700r4, I used a shaft that "came out of 85 shortbed Silverado" although it was in the bed I am not sure that's what it came out of, as engine/trans/shaft was already removed. Brian | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 | Brian, I'm running a TH350. The trans mount bolts right up to the existing crossmember. The P.O. also installed a 1" block between the tail shaft & trans mount for proper pinion angle. I'm hoping to eliminate this "spacer".
Thanks,
Jim Sgrig | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | No spacer on either of the trucks I'm speaking of, pinion angle seems fine. I think trans mount spacers are neccessary if it is lowered considerably. Brian | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I know people like to swap the two-piece for a single, but its a good idea to consider why you'd want to do it. Using a two-piece you can get your truck lower while maintaining the correct pininon angle and limiting the size of the driveshaft tunnel.
I know one guy who thinks a performance truck must have a one piece drive shaft. I disagree.
Looking under modern big trucks you often see two-piece drive shafts. If one of those can stand the stress applied to start out 80,000 pounds and more, then it seems the issue is getting the right parts in place and set up correctly.
You don't say why you want to change. What are you trying to accomplish?
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 219 | Originally posted by OldSub: You don't say why you want to change. What are you trying to accomplish? I wish to eliminate the "launch shudder" I am experiencing. JS | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Launch Shudder? As in you're drag racing this panel?
Unless you're working it real hard I bet there are easier ways to solve the problem. Do you know why it shudders?
Since the turbo 350 was not stock I'd check the pinion angle, transmission mount, drive shaft length and balance. Center bearing and carrier.
Lots of things could cause the shudder, and unless the problem is the driveshaft itself or the center bearing that would be removed in the process changing to a one-piece won't solve the problem.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | |
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