The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Adjustable Drag Link~ Pitman & Steering Arm Conversion / UPGRADE ?????

Does anybody know if on a 1951 3100, is it possible to change out and upgrade to the newer style drag link and eliminate the old ball joynts at both ends of the drag link, pitman arm and control/steering arm to the newer style?? I am right in the middle of this swap and because it appears that the tie rod ends can have this done, upgraded to the newer tie rod ends. It makes sense that the drag link upgrade to the 53on set up should work?
DOES any body know for sure ??

I just installed new tie rod ends on my 52 3100. If you are staying with the original steering box I am not aware of any upgrade for the drag link.

try these guys they are really knowledgable on these parts.

http://www.golden-state-parts.com/

Jim,

I made my own drag link. It did take some work, but it is possible. Here is a link to my description on my web page: http://home.twcny.rr.com/schickling/1940Chevy/rebuild3.html

Drilling out the stud to remove the ball for the old style drag link was the worst of the jobs. Now it has modern tie rod ends from NAPA.

Bill Schickling

Bill,

Nice job! -- you probably could sell this.

There are some threads on this. I believe that it works using the standard kit, for 1953 up up to ? With the previous years you end up with the wheels centered position off the center position in the steering box. This is not a trivial problem as it causes problems with the way the steering box works.

Chev235,

Thanks! Mixing new and old parts has created the opportunity to make a few parts to bridge the differences.

Bill Schickling

I made the change to new tie rod ends on my tie rod and drag link. I basically made a short tie rod and used it as a drag link. I used the same ends as I used on my tie rod, I just bought four instead of two. I got an old tie rod from the wrecking yard. They are the same on all of the straight axle front ends from 36 to 55, maybe even further back, cut the right hand thread off the end and rethreaded the new short piece with the left hand thread still on it. I guess, you could also cut both threaded ends off and weld them together. The only thing that you have to "work" with is that some of the pitman arms do not have the tapered hole in them after you remove the stud ball and you have to "work" with securing the tie rod in the pitman arm. The same can be said for the third arm on the left front hub (the other end of the drag link connection). I went even further and used a 46-54 axle and 53-54 steering arms on my 37. It now basically has a total mid 50's front end under it. This is now a very nice, smooth turning and riding front end! No shake , no shimmy :mad: !

Joe

I asked golden state and chevy duty and the answer is as i've been told the newer style is 3/8'' longer than for 1947 - 51.
so it looks like i have to use the old style unless i make my own.
I'll now look into changing to the adjustable model, but i might have to make that also. then get the taper cut into the steering arm.

I also see that CPP:
http://www.classicperform.com/6092chevtrk.htm
has a bunch of suspension bits and I'll have to call then to see the thread sizes and /or find an adjustable drag link mock up.

Jim,

My steering arm had the taper already in it. It came off a 1955 1st series truck. Maybe someone has one lying around after a IFS swap? That way you could skip that step. I still had to ream out the taper on the pitman arm, because that came from the 1940.

Bill Schickling

OK
This is for 1951 and earlier AD's. So the catalog says...

After asking the guys on bolt, I started my research and found something from speedway motors. As it turned out I had this catalog but a friend told me about the adjustable models of tie rod sleeves from 8'' to 24'', in aluminum, 5/8'' and 3/4''. They can also make any length of tie rod and drag link you want in SS, Plain, maybe even chrome molly. All w/ plain (no chrome or SS) ball ends in both L/H & R/H threads.
Here is a link, maybe in the future someone else will need this link/ thread:
SPEEDWAY MOTORS:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.2086/qx/Product.htm
or http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.2087/qx/Product.htm
or
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...eeves&SDeptId=&SearchTitleDescr=
GENTLEMEN
I found a source and will call them tomorrow about my need for a proper adjustable DRAG link. It will be necessary to remove / (drill out) the BALL end(s) of my ''tie rod'' & ''steering rod'' as well as the pitman arm. These must be a 'Chevy' taper fit insert.
question :
What is the center line length of the drag link (ball & socket type)... my stuff is at the rod shop and it may be a couple days b4 I'm back there???? Any one know. Ball park C/L figure is good cause they have about a 2'' give.
thx
Ps Bill, keep up that fine work.

Let us know what you find out. I think I will do this as well.

Jim -

Got your message on the tie rod ends. Thanks for dropping me a note.

I never thought of Speedway, but it has happened to me before - I need something "custom" and, more times than not, Speedway has something that will work.

At this point I can tell you that having an adjustable drag link is the only way to go. Prior to making the adjustable drag link, I was using a 54 car drag link. The car darag link is adjustable, and that helps alot, even thought I was still battling the "springs and balls".

Why is it the only way to go, :confused: you ask. It is the only way to correctly center your steering wheel - actually, it is the only way to center it period. The set length drag link that comes on all trucks from at least 37 to at least 54 are made at a set length and it does not allow for ANY adjustment. Consequently, you end up not only, in some cases, your steering wheel off center, but your whole steering box can be off center - 3 1/2 turns right - 2 1/2 turns left.

I consider the adjustable drag link a "must be" item on any Art Deco or Advance Design truck.

Jim, again, thanks for the info!!

Joe

Hey Joe, did u use your original pitman arm and just drill tapered the ball hole?

bowtiesr4me -

I drilled and ground the ball off of the pitman arm. Then,I got a bushing that was just the right size for the large part of the stud on tie rod end I used and used it as a "filler" along with the tie rod end stud on the pitman arm. It fit tight enough to tighten up the nut and then, of course, I used a cotter pin.

It all has to do with how large the studs are on the tie rod ends you use and I might have been able to find some that fit the taper of the pitman arm and the steering arm, but a.) Who knows how long that would have taken and, b). I would have had to buy two sets of tie rods because the hole in the pitman arm was smaller than the hole in the third arm. They seem to be functioning fine.

Joe

UP-Date:
I happen to call shops to inquire about cutting a taper. Their appears to be two types, chevy and ford. I also understand that newer trucks have a larger diameter than older vehicles. Sorry I do not know that yr. date. A local 4 wheel shop, not only cuts the taper but offered to investigate the Drag Link issue. He says he's been doing this work (I'm sure for 'jeepers') quit some time. I gave him the new modern tie rod ends w/ my Steering Arm so the cut matches the taper. I now need to give him my old style Drag Link and he will do the rest. When I get part #'s I let you know. We'll see...

You can cut the taper yourself. The reamer is only about $25.00. I bought mine on ebay. The nice thing was I cut the taper to fit my tie rod end perfectly. I just slipped my tap and die handle over the end of the reamer and cut the pitman arm by hand. Only took about 5 minutes and that was test fitting it about 20 times.

Bill Schickling

Hey Joe, Me again, CD sells 2 sizees of balls , what if I drilled out my pitman arm to accept the ball as long as the drag link will fit and adjust on the new ball(I have new drag link)as long as the nut and cotter pin tighten enough with no slop souldnt that be ok? Thanx, Mike

That should work. I might find a way to hold the ball - like between two pieces of wood in a vise, so I could get it as tight as possible. Than I think you would be "good to go"!

Joe

UPDATE: just ordered a new drag link with new modern ball joints applied and made to fit my '48. ordered from CD should be here in about 2 weeks they r on b/o right now but will ship as soon as rec'd. Now all I have to do is drill out the pitman arm {tapered} to accecpt the new ball joints.Sounds simple but nothing u do to update old trucks is simple ! but i wouldn't have it any other way 8^) Hope this helps.

UPDATE on the UPDATE:::
Adjustable Drag Link parts::
We used three items from Napa , hence all npa 269-#'s 1118, 2078 & 2225 . The sleeve and two tie rod ends. The stock Chevy truck's tie rod ends did not have to get reamed because the modern tie rod ends you buy from most '' bolt suppliers'' are designed to fit into the almost straight holes in the tie rod arms.
The other two ball joynt ends for the pittman & steering arm from Napa/?? or CPP, after the old ball ends are ground off and punched out of the arms have to get welded a bit to resize the hole. Then the proper Chevy taper (I believe they are a 6 degree angle ??) can get cut to fit those new Napa/CPP/ Speedway steering ends at some machine shops or 4 wheel drive shop facilities. These two have/need a more pronounced taper then the stock chevy tie rod replacement ones.
We assembled the front end now, what you will see is the two steering arms will line up ''giometrically'' w/ the u~joynt @ the rear end. . It all looks super and is very tight. Any of these suppliers will have what you will need. It's a great safety updade if you have steering problems and have not looked @ those components ... lately/ever.
During this process I re did the king pins as the whole front end was removed as well as a disc brake installation.
good luck and drive your bolt.

http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=DSC00329.jpg
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=Scan6_0006.jpg
this is Shipwrights completed mod in use:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2989148010063595776VbCGsw