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| | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | I need to make my front spindles "new". I cannot find anyone that sells new spindles. Is there a good way to get all the grooves and scrathes out? The grooves are not deep (maybe a 1/32") I know they can weld up crankshafts and grind them down to factory specs, but I haven't been able to find out if this is SAFE for front spindles. Thanks in advance.
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | 49_chevy_truck,
Not sure where your grooves and scratches are. Are they in the kingpin area or the spindle proper. If you are talking about a worn seal bearing surface, they make an item called a seal saver that fits over the worn area and restores it to a nice smooth finish. I can think of no other place that a groove or scratch would make a big difference.
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | The grooves are on the spindle proper. I do not know if I have the vocabulary to explain my dilema, but I will try. There are two races(?) that "hold" the ball bearings in place. One is at back of the hub and the other is at the castle nut. They are NOT the races that are inside of the hub. My guess is they started turning and wore the grooves in the spindle. I got the disc brake conversion kit from CPP and it has a bearing adapter at the rear and a roller bearing at the castle nut side. I wanted to make sure those items would fit correctly. If you need any more information, please ask! thanks again
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | 49_chevy_truck,
I think I understand. The areas on the spindle are for the races, or cups to fit on. I think you are saying, that at some point, maybe yours "spun" in this location and left marks or grooves. Although a nice fit is desired in the area, it isn't "critical". I would file the high spots or ridges off so the race could be tapped on. I think you were implying you were going to timken style bearings...this would be fine too! The combination of vehicle weight and pressure from the axle nut are going to keep the race (cup) from turning. Some people dimple the area in several places so the bearing will tap on snug! I wouldn't think Loctite bearing retainer would be out of the question.
So, to get net, if we are both talking about the same thing, a NASA Rocketship fit isn't needed on the spindle bearings.
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I had to sand mine down to get the CPP bearings on. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | cletis,
What ARE the CPP bearings??
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 311 | atomarc,
Yes you understood. The bearing adapter slides over the spindle for a "press" fit. A new inner race is provided that goes over this adapter, then the timken bearing, then the hub, then another inner race then another (smaller) timken bearing. The bearings are A8 & A13 size. Thanks again
Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
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