The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1/2 or 3/4 ton

I am planning to purchase a 1951 Chevy Pickup. The current owner says it's a 3/4 ton. I have not seen any paperwork for it yet and it has no emblems. How can I tell if it is a 3/4 ton verses 1/2 ton. It certainly looks like a 1/2 ton?

Look at the length of the bed. A 3/4 ton has 3 stake pocket supports on the outside, a 1/2 ton only has two (one front, one back).

Forgot to mention I haven't seen the bed sides yet. They are not currently with the truck. But thanks I will check it out.

Measure the wheelbase - that'll help. One of the smarter guys can tell you which you have if you post the wb.

My 3/4 ton has eight lug wheels, not six lugs like the 1/2 tons.

Every 3/4 ton i've ever seen has eight lug wheels, and all the 1/2 tons have had 6 lug wheels like '53 says.

The 3/4 ton trucks are usually 4 on the floor, and the 1/2 tons are three on the trees.

3/4 tons had provisions for a side mounted spare, if i'm not mistaken.. the 1/2 tons didnt have that feature in '51 (the 1/2 spares went under the bed)

The best way to tell is to get the serial number off the drivers door jamb and type it into the VIN Cruncher found here .

No GM truck had a factory side-mount spare before '53.

3/4-ton and 1-ton trucks had 8-lug axles.

4-speed transmissions were optional on 1/2-ton models, but the three-on-the-tree configuration was much more common. I think 3/4-ton trucks were available with a three-on-the-tree, but the floor-shift SM420 was standard.

Actually, for the Chevy ADs (don't know about GMC) the three speed was standard for the 3/4 ton trucks and the four speed floor shift was an RPO.

Jeff is right, the 3 speed was standard equipment on all 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. The SM420 4 speed was an RPO.

Also, the 3/4 ton will have a strange hybrid driveshaft set-up. It will have a torque tube partway back, then a u-joint, then the rest of the driveshaft will be open.

On my 3/4 ton, the spring hangers are outside the frame, not under it.

Thruwurkin

Ok...I thought the light-duty transmission was an option. Can't say I've ever seen a 3/4-ton with it. Later 3/4-ton trucks don't have the hybrid driveshaft, at least my '54-'55.1 parts truck doesn't.

The 3/4 ton has the 3rd member differential-meaning it can be pulled and swapped without removing the axle. You can see from the front of the differential if it will unbolt or not. I believe that the 1/2 tonners all had the single piece axel + diff. When you see these side by side they look totally different.

Well, I looked a the pics I took. It appears to have 8 lug wheels and the springs hangers are outside the frame. It also has four on the floor. I will get the serial number and put it in the cruncher. Thanks all! I am so glad I found this site.

We're glad you found this place, too!

Be sure and let us know what you find out.. and keep us informed on your project!

Guys This is a 3/4 ton but I was mistaken it is a 1953. (Serial Number J53N 009203) I picked it up today. I am a happy new bolter with many questions.

Rust bucket,
Cool, and welcome aboard. Our trucks are neighbors, in time and space, mine is a 53 3/4 ton from St. Louis.

I need to change my screen name now to Rust bucket 53. It's good to be here. You don't happen to have a wiring diagram for this truck do you? I couldn't get her started. I don't think I have any spark. The PO started to rewire but I am convinced he had no idea. (Said he converted to 12 volt..all but the gen, starter, volt reg and coil which is 8 volt. I'm not sure what he converted) Anyway she cranks but wont start. The plugs are all carbon the coil looks like it was installed with a hammer and the starter button will crank the engine regardless of the key position. (He has all the wires on the same lug on the ignition except 1.

Anyway I am sitting here with nothing to do and my new 53 bolt is 100 miles away due to shipping problems and I am starting to twitch.

Rich

Hey RB53, Welcome to the board. I also have a '53 but it is a GMC. There are wiring diagrams available here, just do a search.

I rewired my bolt last year. Modified the original wiring a little to make it more acceptable to be on todays roads. Things like 12 volt system, USA-6 radio, parking lights on with the headlights, turnsignals, and extra LEDs in the bedroll for the stop and turnsignals in the back. I'm working on electric wipers. The wiring is fairly simple on these trucks. It's like a vacation compared to working on modern automotive wiring!

I put a large switch on my negative battery post so I can cut power real easy. The switch is brass with a large green knob and got it at a swap meet for a buck or two. This makes it much easier to work on the wiring or other electrical. It also keeps the battery from discharging when not driven for a week or so.

Hope you enjoy your stovebolt as much as I have enjoyed mine.

Rick

By the way Jeff, my 3/4 ton bolt was also built in St. Louis in '53. I found mine around Branson, MO.

It's a long story on how a got it and got it home. I'll save that for another day.

Rick

I turned my firewall off and still couldn't view the vin-cruncher, but grapics and text on the page display... is it truly there?

I'm new here, and have a '55 2nd series 3/4 ton with 4-spd... the drive train has two u-joints.. LMC only carries u-joints for the 1/2 ton, can anybody link me to a source for the 3/4 ton, or got part numbers i can take to NAPA?

Thanks,
GB

giant,

i replaced the driveline on my 50 last december. can't recall the numbers for the u-joints at the moment, but i will try to take a look in the morning (when there's light) and see if i can pass any part numbers along.

to be honest, you should be able to go to any reputable drive shaft shop and they should be able to tell you what you need.

as far as the wiring??? sounds like the po's idea of rewiring was just a sales pitch. and the engine turning whether the key is "on" or not is typical if it hasn't been altered too much. the starter engages regardless. the key just supplies juice to the ingnition. when it's in the on position, it should fire.

So here's my next "new guy" question:If the key position doesn't matter and I get it started, how do I shut it off?

PS: There is a lot of new wire under there but I am sure the guy I bought it from didn't do it. I think your right he was just the salesman.

http://www.obschevy.com/
I saw U Joints for 3/4 ton here at Obsolete Chevy.

thanks Rusty!

I tried a site search at your link, but couldn't make it work... my browser must be cursed... so I just emailed them, I'll let you know

and sorry about hijacking your thread here, I'll start my own next time.

great to hear about your '53!

We have ignition!....well sort of. I replaced the coil, points, condenser and tried to hot wire no luck. I reset the gap on the points and put in new plugs, tested the coil to be sure the key was in the right position and I finally have spark. I dumped a little fuel in the carb and she tried to fire up. Put in little more and she ran for 2 seconds (at least I think she was running.) Then to my shagrin the battery had had enough of trying to crank for the last three days and gave up. I will rig up a fuel source(since my tank is disconnected) and see if I can recharge the battery and fire it up. I have new cap and rotor coming in on Saturday and I think I will make a set of new wires for it. Wahoo! I finally made some progress.