| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,037 Posts1,055,463 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#18915 01/09/2005 7:22 AM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 | Hey guys and gals,
I have been daily driving my 48 Chev 1/2t alot lately, and I'm about ready to have to replace the darn front u-joint again on the old torque-tube rear end. I have a rusty 1955 gmc rear end that I want to take the third-member out of it and replace it in my 48 rear end, and then weld the pivots. I have a later SM-420 rear plate and drive shaft yoke for my transmission, but I do not have a driveshaft, and I was wondering who has any ideas for a reletively cheap alternative from have an all new drive shaft made. I though if I could find a 55-57 chev or gmc short bed that I could use the one from that, but so far no luck in my area. I am in Western Washington, across from Seattle, in Port Orchard. Any help would be greatly apprecieated. At $45 plus shipping the u-joints rea getting expensive, and I have already put one of those drive in upper bushing repair kits, that only helped me drive the truck from San Diego to Seattle, till the u-joint died again... Thanks in advance, Garry
Garry K in Pac Nor West
1948 Chevy PU 235 SM420 4 spd
1932 **** B pu
1964 Datsun 4x4 with SBC, SM465 4spd and Rockwell xfer Dana 44Fr and 12 Bolt Rr.
| | |
#18916 01/09/2005 6:00 PM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | I'm not certain about this but I'd bet the joints are 1280/1310 series and the wrecking yards should be full of those. Very common. If they are a Mechanics joint then any decent driveline shop can put a yoke on an old shaft. Driveshafts are really about the easiest part of changing over to an open rearend. | | |
#18917 01/09/2005 6:29 PM | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 4,066 | 53money is correct, you might also try some of those 4 wheel off road type spec just incase they may be one closer to you, I think mine was about $80 but you can probably get one cheaper then that,good luck,Fred
Redryder pixMy HotrodA veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The 'United States of America', for an amount of "up to and including my life."I am fighting cancer and I am winning the fight | Pain is part of life; misery is an option. | | |
#18918 01/10/2005 12:39 AM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 | Thanks Guys,
I will try to get the truck in the garage later this week to jack it up and do a rough measurement of where the drive shaft would be with relation to the other parts (trans yoke and rear third member) to see what length it all has to be, then take the trans yoke with me to a few bone yards to see what I can come up with from the newer trucks. If I can't find one identical in length, I'll try to find one a little long to cut down and re-eld. That should be my cheapest route. Thanks again, Garry
Garry K in Pac Nor West
1948 Chevy PU 235 SM420 4 spd
1932 **** B pu
1964 Datsun 4x4 with SBC, SM465 4spd and Rockwell xfer Dana 44Fr and 12 Bolt Rr.
| | |
|
|
| |
