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#188081 08/19/2005 9:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 288
C
Shop Shark
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Okay from what I understand I should put the bare glass in place mark it when it sits tight to the divider. Place setting tape in oil over night then apply to glass and set in place.

After I put the tape on and set the glass do I need to trim the setting tape?

I've searched the other treads and they were not very specific.

Thanks,
Chris


Chris 1955FirstSeries
#188082 08/19/2005 9:29 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 399
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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O.K. I always put the setting tape in dry, then the glass..Make sure you leave the tape a little longer on both ends, and crimp them closed with something..I use Mineral Oil, but I believe any oil will work..Soak the tape with oil, and let it sit, you can wipe off excess after awhile..the crimp keeps the oil from leaking out..You will know when the tape is swollen up enough, then just trim the ends and wipe it off..Good Luck, Steve

#188083 08/19/2005 10:01 PM
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'Bolter
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Chris,
Again....I soaked the tape overnight and ended up with the most God awful sticky mess you have ever seen.Here are some things I know. I know the fabric side goes TO the glass. I know if the glass is seated in the frame, it will be in TOO far. I know my glass setting tape wasn't wide enough to fill the frame around the handle area, which is quite wide. I know if you have the tempered, tinted glass, which is thinner than the saftey glass, that trimming with a razor knife will scratch it. I'll be watching for your progress, then I'll do it your way!

Stuart.

#188084 08/19/2005 11:45 PM
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'Bolter
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Here's step-by-step how I did it fellas

Two-Forty A/C


And mine has the "too deep in the channel" problem. Steve Benesch (Hedgehog) tole me how he fixed that -

"I also had a gap between the vent glass and vertical channel when it closed, except I set both the window in the frames at the same time. Only found the 1/4" gap after the fact. After doing some serious thinking, I came up with a simple and (if I may say so myself) rather elegant solution: You know that bladed strip of rubber that goes in a slot at the top of the door panel, which presses against the outside of the window and acts sorta like a squeegie when you roll the window down? If you cut it in half, it's precisely the length of the flat edge of the vent glass. Remove the riveted rubber seal from the vertical post and glue the blade in it's place. No gap, no leak, no wind noise; and I didn't have to pull the vent windows out of the frames and start over. So far, nobody has even noticed that it's not correct, although I have gotten kudos on the tight seal from passengers. Of course, if you're aiming for a perfect resto, you'll probably want to pull the glass and start again. I was more concerned with keeping the rain out of my face."


Larry Kephart
1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
2017 Cadillac ATS-V (Elvira)
Boca Raton, Florida
e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/1998/billybob.htm
#188085 08/20/2005 1:03 PM
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I'll be watching how you do it as well Chris as I have to do my vents soon. I'm presuming that I can do the glass without taking the entire vent window out... am I right about that??

As for the tape, oil, etc... a Tech Rep at Chevy Duty suggested the soaking in oil routine. After I soaked it for a few hours (overnight seemed excessive) I squeegied it between my fingers to get excess oil off. I placed it in the channel nt on the glass and used a screwdriver to get it in place. Putting the window in place was a bit of a chore as it kept wanting to slide out. But once in I used shock cords to hold the frame tight on the glass. I placed the assembly in front of a hot air duct to help it dry. I didn't have to trim the seal but it may be different with a vent.

Let us know how it works out for you Chris!


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery


#188086 08/20/2005 2:03 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
No matter what the Chevy Duty rep said, the Shop Manuals say to set the tape and glass in the frames dry. If you have the correct thickness setting tape (and glass), the dry fit should be tight enough to hold the glass in place. After "wetting" the tape with oil and leaving it overnight, the glass should be set (and not move).

Chevy Duty used to sell two thichnesses of glass setting tape. One supposedly works with the side glass and one works with the vent glass (depending on the years). I found that they sometimes sent wrong thicknesses of tapes and I gave up on them (and Jim Carter) sending the correct tape.
Restoration Specialties has four thicknesses of "grip strip rubber and cork (impregnated with ground talc, as original)" glass setting tape (page 29). I bought one roll of each of these tapes and had no problem setting the eight panes of glass on my suburban and a vent and side window on my pickup. I needed to use three different thicknesses of tape.

Restoration Specialities is an excellent company and the people who answer the phone (usually the owners) know what they are doing (and they have been doing it for 30 years). Their catalog is incredible (on-line or $3.50). Whether you are doing an authentic restoration or a modification/restoration they have correct hardware and trim parts that are not available anywhere else (and scale-sized pictures in the catalog). Oh yeah, they have the channel fasteners/clips that it seems that most vendors are not supplying anymore with their side-window channels (page 27 of their catalog).

Sorry about this rant. With the correct setting tape, correct glass thicknesses, and correct techniques setting glass is not a hard undertaking (and modern silicone-sealant is not needed).

Shooper's technique works and Laroke's/Hedgehog's suggestions sound great (I wish I had seen that before I did my last two vents).

Good luck,
Tim

#188087 08/20/2005 2:48 PM
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My 63 shop manual says to brush the frame side of the tape w/oil right before assembly, the oil is supposed to swell the tape after 24 hrs. That's the way I did it about 2-3 weeks ago & it worked great. I don't like te silicone method, don't look OE & can let go. There are at least 3 thicknesses of tape available around here. Local glass shop ordered me a whole roll, they didn't want to be stuck w/it leftover I guess. Cost a whole $12 & I have enough to do about 100 trucks. Need some PM me,,,Brian


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#188088 08/20/2005 5:09 PM
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Finding correct and good advice is always a problem! I did the 'oil soak' routine and had no problems tho so the CD rep did OK by me.


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery


#188089 08/21/2005 6:19 AM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,193
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,193
Why mess with the old fashion tape? I agree silicone would be a bad idea, but why not use automotive urethane?

3M Urethane


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
#188090 08/22/2005 2:03 PM
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Thank you everyone for you input. I am going to go for the installation tonight and I will let all of you know how I do tomorrow.

GBTS(God Bless The Stovebolt)

-Chris


Chris 1955FirstSeries

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