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#176106 01/12/2005 12:18 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
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B
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235 completely rebuilt. Was told the oil pump should be "primed" prior to starting the motor for the first time. True?

#176107 01/12/2005 12:59 AM
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true that will fill all the oil galleys

#176108 01/12/2005 1:17 AM
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I have done this in the past by packing the pump with vaseline petroleum jelly. That may not be the recommended procedure for your engine, though.


Don't lose your head to save a minute,
You need your head, your brains are in it.
Burma-Shave (1947)
#176109 01/12/2005 1:39 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
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I'm sure what the person meant was you need to run your oil pump with a drill motor and an adapter before starting your new engine. You can make an adapter from a long screwdriver by removing the handle, or you can beat one end of a piece of 1/4" mild steel rod flat and grind it off to resemble a screwdriver. Chuck it up and turn your oil pump through the hole where the distributor goes.
If you pack the pump with vaseline you'll squirt vaseline into your oil passages. I'm not sure this is a good idea. Sounds alot like clogged arteries. eek


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#176110 01/12/2005 2:03 AM
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i've packed oil pumps with vaseline several times with no ill effect. the vaseline breaks down with motor oil very easily. if this is a new rebuild i suggest running the pump until the oil pressure gauge gets a small reading. this will help with the dry start. i'm hoping there's cam lube on the bump stick, and the engine was assembled with oils as much as possible. i usually crank the engine with the plugs out so it will get the oil moving into all them nooks and crannies. if the lifters are hydraulic didja think to soak them in tranny oil all night?

good luck with the new mill. nothin' like the sound of a engine comin' back to life.

#176111 01/12/2005 6:06 AM
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J
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Yep, I rebuilt a 2.8 chevy six for my daily driver
yeaterday I put 4 quarts oil in it and before I put the distributor In I turned the oil pump with a 1/4 long entention and a deep well to fit hex shaft oil drive rod. tomarrow I pull ole engine and hope to get new rat motor in. Helps lot if ya per oil up this way. On start up you are not running cold with no oil in the crank and cam. or valve lifters rocker arms. It's a good idea.
jbennett
40 burb

#176112 01/12/2005 2:48 PM
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Don't worry about know when you have spun the oil pump enough you will feel it and hear it. Another way to make sure is to pull the rocker cover and just watch for the oil to show up. Good luck


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
#176113 01/13/2005 12:12 AM
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VERY GOOD information from everyone above, and I thank you very much! smile I will make sure the pump/engine is primed BEFORE I fire her up. wink

#176114 01/13/2005 1:35 AM
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Okay, waaay rookie question.
I'm learning as I go. If I pull my distributor and spin my pump, how do I know which way to replace it?

Thanks,

jay


Your lack of preparation is not my emergency
#176115 01/13/2005 1:36 AM
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Brian, I did the old screw driver in the electric drill routine when I got my rebuilt 216 back -- I just stuck the screwdriver down and engaged the oil pump and let it run for awhile -- believe me, there was NO doubt about it when the pump primed and pressured up the oil system! It about took the drill out of my hands!

Good luck! It sure is a cool thing when that engine lights back off for the first time after a rebuild.

Regards,
John


~ One of many.
#176116 01/13/2005 2:17 AM
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Quote
Originally posted by cletis:
If you pack the pump with vaseline you'll squirt vaseline into your oil passages. I'm not sure this is a good idea. Sounds alot like clogged arteries. eek
This was the specified method in the AMC V8 factory service manual. All my rebuild experience is with AMC engines. There is no clogging of the arteries with vaseline. The reason I mentioned that this may not be recommended for your engine is because my experience is limited to one brand.

When rebuilding something I used to keep a can of 90W gear lube with a small brush in it and brush a coat of lube on every moving part before assembly. I did this for engines or manual transmissions, (not on the synchros, though) and always had succesful rebuilds.


Don't lose your head to save a minute,
You need your head, your brains are in it.
Burma-Shave (1947)
#176117 01/13/2005 2:18 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
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Besides...

Don't tell me I don't know what I'm talking about! That's the wife's job...

wink


Don't lose your head to save a minute,
You need your head, your brains are in it.
Burma-Shave (1947)
#176118 01/13/2005 2:24 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
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Quote
If I pull my distributor and spin my pump, how do I know which way to replace it?
The easiest way is to position the engine at TDC on #1 cylinder.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#176119 01/13/2005 2:27 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
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I primed with a sacrificed screw driver. I didn't get a gusher on the rockers but they got real wet with oil.

Put the distributor back in and started it up. I called all my family and buddies while I was sitting there at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes!! Here's me with the tach. Like John said, no better feeling!!!
[img]http://www.sandeace.com/48/MeWithTach3.jpg[/img]


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#176120 01/13/2005 1:55 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
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There is no mistaking the grin on Wally's face! grin I think we've all been there!!

Andy


A man is like an old truck... He will rust out before he wears out...

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